IeatV8s

turbonetics is rebuilding my s5 turbo. I have a s4 car. with stock injectors. I am intrested as to which compressor wheel I should upgrade to. I know the 60-1 wheel is for higher hp cars. But I have a stock engine, and I'm looking for a little bit more efficient/better turbo. Any suggestions?

IeatV8s

my mod list below

RETed

Go with a V-trim for a little under 300hp to the ground.
Go with an H-trim is you're shooting for 300hp to the ground.


-Ted

IeatV8s

Ok do I tell them I just want a v-trim wheel? Remember I don't have a SAFC or upgraded fuel injectors.

Kanaida

you're definently not ready for 60-1 yet. That's big time stuff. but you'll def. want to modify your current compressor to something more meeting what you'd like to push. your next mod should be for bigger secondaries and the afc after your turbo though. Especially if you're looking to up your boost. I'm sure you're dying to play with that mbc

-Kanaida

IeatV8s

I just want a wheel that I can run, without upgrading my injectors and without having to get a s-afc. Because I don't have the money. I am having my engine being rebuilt as we speak and my turbo. I just thought upgrading my turbo now would be a good idea since it's out of the car and turbonetics has it. I'm not looking at wanting to make mad hp. I just want a little bit more effiecnt turbo, without having to do all the mods to support a bigger wheel.

IeatV8s

~bump

Jerk_Racer

IeatV8s - you can't have your cake and eat it too. If you get an upgraded turbo, you will need to get larger injectors. With larger injectors you will need to get something to control them or you'll be running pig rich. Once you have this you'll need to head out to a local dyno to tune it right. If it doesn't get tuned on a dyno you'll risk popping your engine. Just buying the parts doesn't give you reliability. Tuning them properly on a dyno does.

I have the BNR Stage2 hi-flo turbo. It put down 330+rwhp. It's the one with the T04B compressor. I did some tuning with my HKS Super AFC but ran out of injectors. They were stock and ran out of fuel about 5500rpm. The engine never blew up like the know-it-alls said but the injectors finally failed. Four 720cc squirters will be going in. It's overkill but that's fine by me. I like to have that extra room for comfort. I'll be going back to the dyno soon with larger injectors and a NPR FMIC and I'll see what this thing is good for then. With this setup it should be good for low 12's. That's more than enough for me. A 60-1 would be too laggy and at that point you might as well go with a full T04S if you want to have a turbo that'll be more streetable. With that much turbo, it's a shame to run it on a non-street ported engine. But doing that will cost more money to have the engine built for the turbo. Don't forget a standalone once you start playing with big turbos. Argghhhhh!!! It never ends! Thats why I'm sticking with the BNR Stage2. Any more and I'll hve to start plunking down some serious cash.

If this is all too expensive, time to get a new hobby. Bird watching or stamp collecting won't be too hard on the wallet.

IeatV8s

So another words, just stick with the stock wheel....

Ryde _Or_Die

Well I'd get a 360 degree thrust bearing so it would be safer to boost high later on down the road. You DO need enough fuel. You don't want to blow your engine do you? I would keep boost under 10psi if you don't have larger injectors or an s-afc just to be on the safe side. An upgraded wheel will work fine, and is a great idea everyone is just letting you know you need to think about your fuel issues. Once you get fuel taken care of the fun can begin

Jerk_Racer

I got the 360 degree bearing, but haven't taken the turbo up to it's sweet spot yet (according to Bryan of BNR who built the turbo) out of fear. But when I have the gas to keep up with it it'll be a good day.

If you increase the amount of air going through the engine, then you need to increase the amount of fuel as well. That's it in a nutshell. Doing so is easier said than done, and cheaper too.

IeatV8s

what about getting a updated wheel, but keeping my boost below 10psi until I have the sufficient fuel flow?

Josepi

That would work on the stock turbo...however, a different compressor wheel/housing is going to change the amount of airflow into the motor.

IMHO, I wouldn't even boost without greater fuel...it's playing with fire.

IeatV8s

This is a upgraded wheel for my stock turbo. Tubonetics said they could put a upgraded wheel in, but that they would have to machine the housing. so in a since the turbo housings would still be stock. So with that setup would I be safe?

RETed

The stock fuel injectors run out of pulsewidth at around 230hp to the wheels.&nbsp The Walbro upgrade fuel pump will push the fuel delivery up a little more to like about 240hp to the wheels.&nbsp If you can't address the fuel issues, you shouldn't be looking to make more power - that's asking for trouble.&nbsp Stick with the stock turbo until you can get bigger fuel injector in there...


-Ted

IeatV8s

but u just told me to go with the t04b wheel? what if I kept the boost to like 7-8lbs with the t04b wheel till I can address the fuel issues?

RETed

Yes, I did.&nbsp I answer the PM before stumbling over this thread again.

If you keep the boost down to 0.5bar (~7psi), is should be okay.

I'm kinda perplexed.&nbsp This kinda conversion done by a competent shop is surely going to cost you like $500 minimum.&nbsp You can get 720cc fuel injectors from any GReddy dealer for like $125/each.



-Ted

IeatV8s

well I know the conversion is only about 500, but that's 500 I don't have right now. Like I said, I'm getting a new engine so I'm having to pay for that first. And this thread just come up because I sent my turbo away since I already have the motor out,and plus the turbo needs rebuilt. So I'm trying to save myself the time and money down the road of having my turbo upgraded at a later date. Turbonetics has the turbo now, that's why I'm trying to decide what to do.

Ryde _Or_Die

You can actually get GReddy 720cc injectors for $110 each from www.rx7store.net . If you keep the boost down, you should be absolutely fine.

IeatV8s

to4b compressor wheel in stock ht-18 turbo, with stock injectors,no safc, safe to run at low boost for now? That's the simplest way to ask my question.

RETed

Sure...I hope you've got very good control of your right foot...

-Ted

Kanaida

put a stopper or something under the gas pedal so you can't floor it, and restricts it to a certain degree. then drop in your to4b compressor. No, I'm not serious.

-K

IWNTA20B

So....how are you going to control your boost? How are you controlling your fuel? You have no fuel controller, stock ECU and stock injectors . I see you have a manual controller and downpipe. The stock wastegate is too small and you will get boost creep.
This set up is going to cost you down the road.
Stock 550cc x 4 cannot handle too much boost safely.
Hell 550 and 720 is barely enough to boost safely to 10-12 psi.
Even if you set your manual controller to 7 or 8 psi, you cannot control your boost creep. That's where you'll blow your engine. The guys here have been there and they're warning you. Listen. I've been there with a comp TO4B 60-1 HiFi upgrade. It's scary how much boost creep I get. You can port the wastegate only so much. You have a new engine. Break it in properly. Did you re-wire your pump? You do know that at night with lights on your voltage drops to 10V.

IeatV8s

yeah i did the rewire to the pump. but I just heard from turbonetics today that my exhaust housing on my s5 turbo is cracked, so now I can't even really use that turbo unless I find another one that isn't cracked. I'm screwed...

RETed

Most of the time, you can used the cracked housing.&nbsp I've had owners who have been told their housings are beyond use, but when I inspected the housing it was fine.&nbsp Sure, it was cracked, but it won't fall apart.&nbsp As long as there is no chance that a *piece* of turbine housing can crack off, you should be fine - most housings are cracked, but no chance of cracking a piece off.&nbsp Turbonetics might refuse the job due to liability.


-Ted