trouble starting rebuild with haltech
trouble starting rebuild with haltech
I've been trying to get my rebuild started, but its not been easy. I got it started twice so far, but only ran it for a little bit since I did not yet have the cooling system hooked up, or the IC pipes. but it ran fine when it did. but I've been trying to start it for a while this morning, and no luck so far... I can't figure out what it needs... I've been adjusting all the fuel levels, and ignition timing on the haltech, but can't find a place that will make it work. and the engine before was running fine on the haltech, and I didn't change a thing, other than slightly adjusting the fuel and ignition. and I zero'd the timing as well, so I know its correct... unless somehow it has changed.
the motor itself has 9.4:1 rotors now instead of the S5 tII rotors it had before. everything else on it is S5 TII. cmpression is decent (around 75psi all around, and it hasn't run for more than 5 min. total)... anything that I would need to change for some reason now? I've been jumping it and spraying starting fluid in the intake, but still no luck. and its not flooding out.... I just don't know what else to do.
the motor itself has 9.4:1 rotors now instead of the S5 tII rotors it had before. everything else on it is S5 TII. cmpression is decent (around 75psi all around, and it hasn't run for more than 5 min. total)... anything that I would need to change for some reason now? I've been jumping it and spraying starting fluid in the intake, but still no luck. and its not flooding out.... I just don't know what else to do.
With the lower compression, the engine wants more fuel.
It's a pain in the *** to get a fresh rebuild to run good on a stand-alone running MAP based load.
You're going to be adjusting the fuel levels almost every week.
I would suggest jacking the cranking primer and coolant maps only.
Don't touch the regular fuel and ignition maps.
Keep in mind, with the higher compression you're running now, all the maps need to be tweaked in the end.
Since you're breaking the motor in initially, just worry about getting the damn thing running...
-Ted
It's a pain in the *** to get a fresh rebuild to run good on a stand-alone running MAP based load.
You're going to be adjusting the fuel levels almost every week.
I would suggest jacking the cranking primer and coolant maps only.
Don't touch the regular fuel and ignition maps.
Keep in mind, with the higher compression you're running now, all the maps need to be tweaked in the end.
Since you're breaking the motor in initially, just worry about getting the damn thing running...
-Ted
Originally Posted by RETed
With the lower compression, the engine wants more fuel.
It's a pain in the *** to get a fresh rebuild to run good on a stand-alone running MAP based load.
You're going to be adjusting the fuel levels almost every week.
I would suggest jacking the cranking primer and coolant maps only.
Don't touch the regular fuel and ignition maps.
Keep in mind, with the higher compression you're running now, all the maps need to be tweaked in the end.
Since you're breaking the motor in initially, just worry about getting the damn thing running...
-Ted
It's a pain in the *** to get a fresh rebuild to run good on a stand-alone running MAP based load.
You're going to be adjusting the fuel levels almost every week.
I would suggest jacking the cranking primer and coolant maps only.
Don't touch the regular fuel and ignition maps.
Keep in mind, with the higher compression you're running now, all the maps need to be tweaked in the end.
Since you're breaking the motor in initially, just worry about getting the damn thing running...
-Ted
lol. also, I'm thinking I will try swapping out my battery... voltage seems like its still low, even with a charger on it, and jumping it...
hopefully that will help.thanks ted!
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1993fd3sracer1
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
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Sep 7, 2015 11:50 AM



