Trailing/Leading firing same time!
01-29-04, 12:06 PM
#1
Trailing/Leading firing same time!
I just got my 88 TII up and running and I am stumped on some of my problems...The car started right up the day I went to start it and idled and still idels great...But i am haveing problems at 1/4 throttle....My A/F gauge starts to fluter from lean to stoich...either I have to barly touch the throttle or I have to mash it for the car to keep from jerking...Now as for the timing...I was setting my timing and the leading and trailing were firing at the same timing mark...Whats up with that...I was reading some other threads and some say it could be the TPS...but I don't know....qbakc to what I was saying ealier....Now at 1/4 throttle as the boost gauge goes from 0-1psi the car starts to jerk and the A/f gauge goes crazy, but if mash the throttle it seems to stop jerking and the A/F doesn't bounce as fast...At idle my A/F reads rich....My engine has been rebuilt and is steet ported (if that matters)....Do ya'll think the TPS is at falt or fuel or what...I am stumped!!!
01-29-04, 01:34 PM
#2
oh and also the above stuff happens only when I am driving and at idle if I hold the throttle down to get it to 1500 RPM some time it will surge from 1500 to 750...I was thinking maybe vac leak but my idle is fine--purrs at 750 perfectly!
01-29-04, 03:01 PM
#5
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i have the same EXACT problem with my car as well. Mine seemed to start doing this after i got my strieght pipe, me and nashman69g could really use the help (if thats ok with you nashman69g 
01-29-04, 03:05 PM
#6
I also have straight exaust, minus the stupid precat that I need for temp to hold the O2 while I wait to get my replacement pipe!
And yes that's OK
i have the same EXACT problem with my car as well. Mine seemed to start doing this after i got my strieght pipe, me and nashman69g could really use the help (if thats ok with you nashman69g
01-29-04, 03:19 PM
#7
What I'm saying is if you're saying the leading and trailing are firing at the same time, if you hook the timing light to L2/T2 they should all be on the same mark.
Just an FYI-The L1/L2 will fire at the same time. That's what you'll be checking with the light, that the wires are definitely connected properly. If the L1 and L2 have a different reference on the crank the plug wires are on wrong. You naturally can trace from the coils.
Just an FYI-The L1/L2 will fire at the same time. That's what you'll be checking with the light, that the wires are definitely connected properly. If the L1 and L2 have a different reference on the crank the plug wires are on wrong. You naturally can trace from the coils.
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01-29-04, 04:23 PM
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Originally posted by Turbonut
Just an FYI-The L1/L2 will fire at the same time. That's what you'll be checking with the light, that the wires are definitely connected properly. If the L1 and L2 have a different reference on the crank the plug wires are on wrong. You naturally can trace from the coils.
Just an FYI-The L1/L2 will fire at the same time. That's what you'll be checking with the light, that the wires are definitely connected properly. If the L1 and L2 have a different reference on the crank the plug wires are on wrong. You naturally can trace from the coils.
Originally posted by nashman69g
...Also if the L1/L2 should fire at the same time well I have something really wrong....
...Also if the L1/L2 should fire at the same time well I have something really wrong....
01-29-04, 06:34 PM
#12
Okay
L1 and L2 fire at the same time... ALWAYS! They only have one firing signal and share the same coil. They fire at 5 deg ATDC. T1 and T2 fire independent and at 20 degrees ATDC timing on T1.
Your problem sounds more like a TPS problem.
L1 and L2 fire at the same time... ALWAYS! They only have one firing signal and share the same coil. They fire at 5 deg ATDC. T1 and T2 fire independent and at 20 degrees ATDC timing on T1.
Your problem sounds more like a TPS problem.
Last edited by J-Rat; 01-29-04 at 06:40 PM.
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jclapp (02-01-24)
01-29-04, 11:57 PM
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ok guys i have the same $%#@! problem!! but actualy my L1, L2 & T2 fire @ the same time 5 atdc but T1 was no where to be found.!! that's right it's firing but!! i can't see my mark @ all on T1 when i check it with timing light. ( the closest coil to the firewall i think that's T1 correct me if i'm wrong ). Can somebody explain to me how can this be TPS problem?? i can't even idle lower than 1500rpm now.. it's sooo rich that the car stall and die lower rpm than 1500. but again that's from my timing sucks and i can't burn fuel.. help please. thanks C
01-30-04, 01:39 AM
#18
Originally posted by loofeeTurboII
ok guys i have the same $%#@! problem!! but actualy my L1, L2 & T2 fire @ the same time 5 atdc but T1 was no where to be found.!! that's right it's firing but!! i can't see my mark @ all on T1 when i check it with timing light. ( the closest coil to the firewall i think that's T1 correct me if i'm wrong ). Can somebody explain to me how can this be TPS problem?? i can't even idle lower than 1500rpm now.. it's sooo rich that the car stall and die lower rpm than 1500. but again that's from my timing sucks and i can't burn fuel.. help please. thanks C
ok guys i have the same $%#@! problem!! but actualy my L1, L2 & T2 fire @ the same time 5 atdc but T1 was no where to be found.!! that's right it's firing but!! i can't see my mark @ all on T1 when i check it with timing light. ( the closest coil to the firewall i think that's T1 correct me if i'm wrong ). Can somebody explain to me how can this be TPS problem?? i can't even idle lower than 1500rpm now.. it's sooo rich that the car stall and die lower rpm than 1500. but again that's from my timing sucks and i can't burn fuel.. help please. thanks C
You need to re-stab the CAS as per stock directions, then DO NOT ADJUST YOUR TIMING UNTIL THE CAR IDLES UNDER 800!!!!
If your adjusting your timing when its idling at 1500, your timing is so far off, its in the next state..
Jarrett
01-30-04, 08:21 AM
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stock directions??? meaning timing mark @ yellow. but @ the CAS I can only see the blue mark on the teeth but not sure how it's suppose to be when i restab it,, if u can show me the pics. and i just recently also put in a TPS (USED) can that also be 1 of the problems??? thanks C
01-30-04, 09:29 AM
#20
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Nashman; you've got a tps problem. Disconnect the tps plug and see what happens. Just a guess.
looofeee: needs to download the fsm and read how to set the cas. The remarks about a blue tooth etc makes me think that. But if the forum will allow me to post it, I'll post a jpg of what a cas should look like after its been installed, and the first mark on the STOCK pulley is aligned with the pointer.
EDIT: Well, once again the forum won't let me attach a jpg. Sucks big time. I've posted this jpg in the past so you might be able to search for it.
And....the timing is set with a timing light in the long run. The jpg would have gotten you within approx five degrees. And NEVER set the timing with the rpm over say 800/900 rpm (conservative figures).
looofeee: needs to download the fsm and read how to set the cas. The remarks about a blue tooth etc makes me think that. But if the forum will allow me to post it, I'll post a jpg of what a cas should look like after its been installed, and the first mark on the STOCK pulley is aligned with the pointer.
EDIT: Well, once again the forum won't let me attach a jpg. Sucks big time. I've posted this jpg in the past so you might be able to search for it.
And....the timing is set with a timing light in the long run. The jpg would have gotten you within approx five degrees. And NEVER set the timing with the rpm over say 800/900 rpm (conservative figures).
01-30-04, 09:56 AM
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Go here (you can actually post a jpg there!) and you'll see a picture of a cas that when stabed will look just like that IF the pulley and pointer are aligned. If the words pulley and aligned leave you wondering...then download the fsm's Fuel Section and take a few minutes to read how to insert a cas. Here: http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=23226
01-31-04, 09:12 AM
#22
Ok...my problems are still present but have now gotten progressivly worse...the leading now only fire once in a while the T2 coil fires all the time....I am stumped...I check everything I cold thing of...I used a meter to check the TPS(I did use my S4 N/A on--if that matters---both the TII and N/A TPS' are within specs though), AFM, CAS and they are all within specs...I replaced the coil packs with known working ones...wires are fine, plugs--all a go!!I was wondering if this could be a ECU problem???As I drove my car the it got worse and worse...I had to drive at 20MPH home down the interstate because I could not accelerate fast enough to get up to speed before I could at least get to 55....The problem is still somewhat the same as above but is now worse than ever...If I still floor it, it goes without to much of a problem but starts to hit boost; but I can't hit boost yet on my new motor.... I really need some help!!!
02-01-04, 04:09 AM
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https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=45960
Nashman, please stop worrying. The Lead one and Lead two are in the same circuit. They both fire at the same time. Therefore if you see on firing consistently then it follows the other is firing consistently. Your problem lies in your timing light. If you swap the direction the inductive clamp is on the wire, I believe you'll see the inconsistent sparking wire start to spark consistently.
To know all there is to about ignitions.....go to the SEARCH ENGINE on this site. Type in IGNITION to the left and KEITH to the right. Hit enter. Read. Also I think if you type in the name Don Hammond, you will see a factory service bulletin that mentions this *Problem*, which turns out to be NOT A PROBLEM.
Nashman, please stop worrying. The Lead one and Lead two are in the same circuit. They both fire at the same time. Therefore if you see on firing consistently then it follows the other is firing consistently. Your problem lies in your timing light. If you swap the direction the inductive clamp is on the wire, I believe you'll see the inconsistent sparking wire start to spark consistently.
To know all there is to about ignitions.....go to the SEARCH ENGINE on this site. Type in IGNITION to the left and KEITH to the right. Hit enter. Read. Also I think if you type in the name Don Hammond, you will see a factory service bulletin that mentions this *Problem*, which turns out to be NOT A PROBLEM.
02-01-04, 04:14 AM
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Service Bulletin Number: G-001/90 Bulletin Sequence Number: 025 Date of Bulletin: 06/90
NHTSA Item Number: SB014429
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION
Summary:
TIMING LIGHT MALFUNCTION-ON DLI SYSTEM DISCHARGE FROM IGNITION COIL IS BIPOLAR O NE SIDE IS (-VE)OTHER (+VE)-THEREFORE IF TIMING LIGHT DESIGNED TO MEET DISCHARGE FROM(-VE)TERMINAL, ONLY IT WILL NOT LIGHT OR WORKS INTERMITTENTLY AT (+VE)TERMIN AL-THIS IS PROBLEM W/DESIGN OF TIMING LIGHT-CHECK TIMING LIGHT, IF IT LIGHTS COR RECTLY ON EACH CYLINDER-LIGHT SHOULD WORK FROM EITHER(+VE)OR(-VE) SIDE-IF LIGHTS CORRECTLY, IT CAN BE USED ON DLI SYTEM-IF IT DOES NOT LIGHT CORRECTLY, DON'T USE IT ON DLI SYSTEM-ALL 1986-90 MAZDA RX7 AND 1990 MIATA W/DLI PM
NHTSA Item Number: SB014429
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION
Summary:
TIMING LIGHT MALFUNCTION-ON DLI SYSTEM DISCHARGE FROM IGNITION COIL IS BIPOLAR O NE SIDE IS (-VE)OTHER (+VE)-THEREFORE IF TIMING LIGHT DESIGNED TO MEET DISCHARGE FROM(-VE)TERMINAL, ONLY IT WILL NOT LIGHT OR WORKS INTERMITTENTLY AT (+VE)TERMIN AL-THIS IS PROBLEM W/DESIGN OF TIMING LIGHT-CHECK TIMING LIGHT, IF IT LIGHTS COR RECTLY ON EACH CYLINDER-LIGHT SHOULD WORK FROM EITHER(+VE)OR(-VE) SIDE-IF LIGHTS CORRECTLY, IT CAN BE USED ON DLI SYTEM-IF IT DOES NOT LIGHT CORRECTLY, DON'T USE IT ON DLI SYSTEM-ALL 1986-90 MAZDA RX7 AND 1990 MIATA W/DLI PM