KB7SKV

OK... 91 N/A vert. rtek 1.0 (got rid of AWS and OMP basically) but this problem popped up before the upgrade.

starts, idles and rev's to 1,900rpm fine. at 2k, it gets ign cut momentarily just until it gets below 2k then picks up again... winds up sounding like a REALLY hot cam in a piston engine (braaaaap......braaaaap......braaaaap really fast) the ONLY code I have right now is 30 (split air solenoid valve) BUT if I really push it, I CAN get it above 2k, it does NOT sound good at all, has NO power (no way I could drive it) and will then throw a 01 (Ignition Coil (Trailing) - Trailing ignition pulse cut) code. ALSO, leading and trailing coils are firing at the same time (both landing on the yellow mark... good light, good wires, double checked the connections)

so what is going on??

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Probably a rediculous reply, but if the leading and trailing timing is the same, sure the plug wires are on correctly.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

It sort of sounds like the Car is in Limp mode still..
Did you install the chip yourself?..IF you did,It "could be"that the OMP took out the ECU.so unbeknownst to you,you may have installed the Chip in a Bad ECU..(????)
I am just Guessing though.

KB7SKV

Yep, plug wires are correct (even double checked). I was concerned that I might've had a bad ECU. Guess I'm gonna have to find a new one and put my chip in it. On a side note, I went back to the car and discovered my Air Flow Sensor is bad (meters out ok in the closed position, and goes totally nuts when opened) so I'm going to replace that too... HOPE thats the problem but not holding my breath. Anybody have a N35X ECU they wanna sell cheap?

HAILERS

Sounds more like a blown engine than anything. Pull the lower plugs and spin the engine with a finger over one hole at a time. IF an apex seal has gone you can tell just by the feel of your finger when comparing front to the rear pulses.

KB7SKV

Hailers... are you reading one post and replying to another again? Compression is fine BTW, due to your reputation I DID go double check it, but didn't think I'd find a problem. I'm 99% certain now that it's the ECU (got one on it's way) with a tiny reserve possibility that it's the Air Flow Sensor (if I pull the airbox and manually 'bounce' the AFS, I get the same symptom... momentary engine 'cut-out') it doesn't read any where NEAR where it should when it's 'open' BUT that still doesn't explain the timing showing up the same on both coils (wires are right, and I've swapped known good coils in on both.

Thanks all for the suggestions, keep 'em coming as I will continue to troubleshoot other things until the parts I have ordered come in.

HAILERS

Naw, I''m just loopy.

You made sure the plug wires are on right. It sounded a bit like Trails and Leads mixed or the trails 1 and 2 mixed. So that's not it since you checked that.

The only thing similar other than those ideas would be a narrow band TPS being corrupt. On a series four I'd just disconnect the TPS and see what happened. But you have a series five. I'm not sure what happens if the TPS is disconnected on a series five. Can't hurt to try.

Maybe ohm out the CAS as a culprit? Maybe check fuel pressure? I've a belief if any of the four wires on the CAS was cut/disconnected, the car won't even start. Just my opine.

The rpms have to be under 1100 rpm when checking the timing. That so with you when you see both lead and trail hit the yellow mark (second mark)?

KB7SKV

I kinda figured it was prolly a late night, or long day or SOMETHING! LOL

Here are some answers in order of your questions...
It did this with 2 TPSs (one I know was bad, and the new one) Disconnecting it doesn't seem to change things any. I dont THINK it's the TPS

CAS is a replacement too, engine also exhibited these symptoms with the 'loaner' I had in the car earlier, don't think it's the CAS. AND I'm sure your correct on the wires, cutting any of the 4 would kill the car.

PRETTY sure the rpms were under or VERY near 1100 when I checked the timing, I will double check that tomorrow.

I almost hope it's the ECU though, if I bought a 'new' one and don't need it, wife's liable to string me up LOL

HAILERS

At 1200 rpm the ECU all by itself advances the timing.

The stock tach might be as much as 100 rpm off, that's why I suggest not setting the timing unless the engine is hot and well under 1000rpm.

HAILERS

I went out to the car. Warmed it up almost to full temp.

Slowly raised the rpms til I hit 1200rpm and the timing jumped to what you see in the picture.

The rpms JUMP when you hit the 1200rpm figure to what you see in the jpg.

Both lead and trail are about the same. Now, they are advanced and not retarded like you say yours are (both on the triail marks for you if I understood right).

Maybe the timing needs to be reset with the rpms well under the 1000 rpms and engine fully hot?

HAILERS

Here is why the engine needs to be up to temp before timing it. The engine temp is shown on the Palm and the lead and tail timing is show. Those are ATDC figures, not the stock idle of -5 and -20T at full temp idling.

So if someone sets the CAS/tiiming with a car not up to temp, the ECU advancing the timing will make any adjustment wrong and cause a real funny running car/engine.

FYI.......During Starting, the ECU advances both lead and trail to 5*ATDC, til the engine actually starts up.

KB7SKV

Ok, so aside from being REALLY jealous of your setup (i NEED to upgrade my ECU!!), I'm enlightened now too!! I just 'initial set' the timing to get it started, then only warmed it briefly before trying to set the timing, and had to hold the idle up a bit to keep it running. I'm SURE the timing is WAY off now, I'll start over and see where I get. My Air Flow sensor should be here tomorrow, so I'll dive into it tomorrow afternoon/ evening. Thanks again for 'holding my hand' on this project, I really appreciate the help.

HAILERS

I know you don't need instructions on installing a CAS...........But if I were you, I"d turn the pulley til the Lead mark was opposite the fixed pointer on the front cover.

Then remove the black cover off the top of the CAS. Held with two phillips screws.

The guts of the CAS should look like my second jpg. If it does, then the timing is within a couple of degrees of being right if there's nothing *funny* about the pulley (like off another series RX).

The first jpg is of the dimples aligned on the bottom of the CAS. Holding that, the top should look like my second jpg when the pulley Lead mark is aligned with the fixed pin on the front cover.

Just FYI and nothing more or less.

KB7SKV

Thanks Hailers, you're correct tho, I did have that part right (had that damn thing in and out a hundred times lately). Now for the million dollar question... WHAT could cause the timing to jump ALL over the place? I'm HOPING the only thing is the ECU, 'cause I have one on the way, and I'm running out of places to look! BTW, how can I tell if the pulley is the wrong one? I suppose it could have been changed to an S4 pulley when the front was changed for the mechanical OMP swap.

TONIGHT- I put the new air flow sensor in, then started it up, warmed it up all the way, set the timing (L-1 on the yellow mark), got the idle down around 6 or 700, double checked the timing (right on) moved to T-1 and it is also on the yellow mark. a minute later the engine revved up and I checked the timing and it was WAY advanced (retarded? the marks were up under the water pump instead of at the pointer)!! I reset it, got the idle right and checked the T-1 again and it was RIGHT on...revved the engine a couple times and the timing went to hell again, and it started running rough again. I let it run for 20min or so and it would occasionally run perfectly, sound good, and timing landed right, then it'd go right back without me touching anything. I am CONVINCED the ECU is suffering terminal brain damage... is there anything I might be missing?

ifryrice

Are you grounding the initial set connector while messing with it?

KB7SKV

I have tried it both ways.

KB7SKV

Well, it was the ECU!! I put the rtec chip in the new ECU, and everything is fixed!! Timing set perfect, idle is right on, and it runs like a champ!!

THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED!!

ifryrice

Are you doing anything with your dead S5 ECU? I need to pick one up to scavenge the harness connector out of, and a dead unit would be perfect.

KB7SKV

actually gonna save it for the same thing. I'm planning to upgrade in the not terribly distant future, and will need the connector to make my 'jumper'.