alritzer

I set the tps on my S5T2 to 1K ohms but then when I double checked looking for 1V DC the meter actually shows only 450 millivolts(1/2 volt). So, I was thinking thats OK, I'll just set it to 1V, but the most that I can get is 600 millivolts.

For the volts setting the connector was plugged in and the key was on but not the engine was not started. For ohm, the connector was not connected and the key was not on.

Ideas????

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Test voltage between the green/red wire and ground, key on, connector plugged in.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Must be up to temp or fast idle cam moved out of way, but set using the factory check connector. I've tried many different testing scenarios over the years on the S5 TII, but factory method proved best.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

The factory checker does work, but I like the accuracy of the voltmeter. There's an error band when using the LED method.

I always let it warm up, check the idle speed, adjust if necessary, adjust tps to 1.0v, blip the throttle a few times, repeat. Once you can blip the throttle and it returns to 1.0v (repeatedly), you can stop the process. It takes a while, but it does work.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

/\.this.
and contrary to belief,the old meters are better than the digitals,as they can show dead spots in the Tps.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Analog meters are definitely the way to go. They're really scarce these days, but I totally agree with you. Digital meters, while they do receive a constant analog input, they have to convert it to digital. The digital to analog converter inside the meter samples the reading at a rate of about 2hz. That's very, very slow. So you could blast by a dead spot and never see it.

alritzer

Thanks guys. I did let the engine warm up but what I did not realize is that by the the time I was ready to set the tps the engine had already cooled off.

Idles really good now. I have it set for 1500 rpm right now but it will hold a steady idle down to 700.

Maybe I'll actually be able to take it out on the highway this time, but not yet.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

There are two voltage signals: narrow range and full range. Which one were you reading?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Here it is 2012 and this theory never seems to change, but you should read the FSM and you'd realize that the narrow range voltage at idle, after warm-up, should be .25v/1.25v as a starting point, but the final adjustment is made using the light method, or as I do 2 MM's. Seems to me that using just the voltage is part 1 and part 2 is never accomplished. To each their own.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Once it's fully warmed up, the TPS should be sending exactly 1.000 volts to the ECU. Nothing more, nothing less, ever. That is the part b you're talking about.

alritzer

I was reading the closest to the front. One of the wires is green/red.

I have it adjust correctly now. We have several digital meters and an older analog meter that works pretty good for this.

alritzer

I finally got to take it for a ride and boy is this thing fast. Way faster than any of the other T2s I've had. This 7 is so fast its scary.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Take that **** easy until it's broken in.

But I'm glad everything worked out for you.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Do you think I make this up, ever read the FSM? Guess not, then you'd see that there is no mention of a final setting of 1v, or any setting of 1v for that matter. The final adjustment is made with the light method, and that is Part 2.

Or even better yet, show me where it states the setting is to be 1v +/- 0.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The pinout chart provided in the FSM states the narrow range, pin 2F, is to be 1 volt at idle as well as w/key to on w/engine warmed.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Look, I have read the FSM numerous times. I also know that I understand electrical theory better than about 99% of people on this forum. I understand that using that stupid little (1970's era technology) LED checker does work, but all I'm saying is that the FSM was probably written with the thought in mind that the technicians who will be working on these cars were probably high school dropouts. For instance, the FSM gives numerous instances where resistance checks are the "correct" way for determining if a part is good or bad. What they didn't account for was the fact that the engine harness was not weather-tight, and over the years the connectors will corrode, the wires will age, etc. The TPS could, in fact, be set to 1k ohms at idle, engine fully warm, but if the harness is dropping voltage, it'll never run right. When you have the ability to check voltage vs. checking resistance, or using Mazda's archaic 2-LED checker, I'm going to choose voltage readouts. The voltage won't lie to you, I promise.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

The ECU is reading the voltage (and voltage drop), IIRC. We tap into the TPS lead at the ECU with the Zeitronix as User1. Hailers emphasizes backporting at the ECU - I assume because it takes into account - as AGreen notes - the degradation of the grounds, connectors and leads and shows what the ECU is really seeing.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, but if one looks at the chart, the value of 2F is approx. 1 volt, not exactly 1.0v. It’s similar to the Specified Voltage of .25/1.25 or approx 1v. Once again there is nothing in the FSM stating exactly 1v +/-0.

Using degradation of the wiring harness really isn’t a plausible defense as an assumption is being made with no proof and not even an attempt to do the adjustment by the antiquated factory method, but if the harness is in such a sad state, I hate to see what other sensors/ components are affected. Actually the 1v theory has been around 20+ years, even when the cars were relatively new with no wiring problems, and in retrospect, the 1v test is probably for the layman as the factory checker can be traumatic for some. I’m just a firm believer in doing it the right way, and no one can state where the exact 1 volt comes from other than being passed on for years and the exact 1 volt setting will not yield a perfect running car, I can attest to that fact. The light method will be more precise when dialing in the TPS setting, providing there is no wiring harness damage as you state.

Guess I’ll leave it there as this could go on forever, but just wanted to air my side of the story.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Then why is the full range stated at .8 volts and not 1 volt or .25 volts if 1 volt would be a sufficient value. Just a thought and that's all for learning should be a non stop adventure.

HAILERS2

Sorry but I've used the factory/FSM method which is the two LED light method and the end result is approx 1vdc. I've done this time and time again and the two light method results in approx 1vdc each time. So if one just uses a meter or a RTEK 2.0 with Palm and sets the output to one volt dc that makes just as much sense as fiddling with the two LED lights method and the meter or Palm mitt RTEK 2.0 is so much easier to use.

Setting the TPS to 0.95vdc or 1.05 vdc does NOTHING to idle or mixture at all. It makes NO diff if the setting is .95 or 1.05. Read the online training manual as to just what the TPS input does for the ECU. One thing it does is set zones of operation and the other is to control the solenods that in turn control the ACV.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

IMHO the key word is approximately and if that were to be the final setting there wouldn't be an adjustment with the light method even mentioned in the FSM. I have also set the TPS using the OHM/Volt method and I will agree with your assessment that there is virtually no change in idle performance, but must add there is a change in operating function as I done it many times. Ten years ago I stated the findings indicating some hiccups after only setting by volts. In fact, it was tried with the existing TPS, brought into the garage, installed a new TPS, yes new not used, set .99v, idle was fine, but again, a couple of hiccups in performance when boosted, into garage, checked with 2 mm's and found current in both, but after tweaking the TPS setting to yield current in only one, car was perfect and has been ever since. Looking at the notes, the final setting yielded 1.27v.

Hey, I guess it's what works for you.