TPS set to 1K ohms BUT.......
I set the tps on my S5T2 to 1K ohms but then when I double checked looking for 1V DC the meter actually shows only 450 millivolts(1/2 volt). So, I was thinking thats OK, I'll just set it to 1V, but the most that I can get is 600 millivolts.
For the volts setting the connector was plugged in and the key was on but not the engine was not started. For ohm, the connector was not connected and the key was not on. Ideas???? |
Test voltage between the green/red wire and ground, key on, connector plugged in.
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Must be up to temp or fast idle cam moved out of way, but set using the factory check connector. I've tried many different testing scenarios over the years on the S5 TII, but factory method proved best.
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The factory checker does work, but I like the accuracy of the voltmeter. There's an error band when using the LED method.
I always let it warm up, check the idle speed, adjust if necessary, adjust tps to 1.0v, blip the throttle a few times, repeat. Once you can blip the throttle and it returns to 1.0v (repeatedly), you can stop the process. It takes a while, but it does work. |
Originally Posted by AGreen
(Post 11095487)
The factory checker does work, but I like the accuracy of the voltmeter. There's an error band when using the LED method.
I always let it warm up, check the idle speed, adjust if necessary, adjust tps to 1.0v, blip the throttle a few times, repeat. Once you can blip the throttle and it returns to 1.0v (repeatedly), you can stop the process. It takes a while, but it does work. and contrary to belief,the old meters are better than the digitals,as they can show dead spots in the Tps. |
Analog meters are definitely the way to go. They're really scarce these days, but I totally agree with you. Digital meters, while they do receive a constant analog input, they have to convert it to digital. The digital to analog converter inside the meter samples the reading at a rate of about 2hz. That's very, very slow. So you could blast by a dead spot and never see it.
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Thanks guys. I did let the engine warm up but what I did not realize is that by the the time I was ready to set the tps the engine had already cooled off.
Idles really good now. I have it set for 1500 rpm right now but it will hold a steady idle down to 700. Maybe I'll actually be able to take it out on the highway this time, but not yet. |
There are two voltage signals: narrow range and full range. Which one were you reading?
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Here it is 2012 and this theory never seems to change, but you should read the FSM and you'd realize that the narrow range voltage at idle, after warm-up, should be .25v/1.25v as a starting point, but the final adjustment is made using the light method, or as I do 2 MM's. Seems to me that using just the voltage is part 1 and part 2 is never accomplished. To each their own.
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Once it's fully warmed up, the TPS should be sending exactly 1.000 volts to the ECU. Nothing more, nothing less, ever. That is the part b you're talking about.
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Originally Posted by arghx
(Post 11095904)
There are two voltage signals: narrow range and full range. Which one were you reading?
I have it adjust correctly now. We have several digital meters and an older analog meter that works pretty good for this. |
I finally got to take it for a ride and boy is this thing fast. Way faster than any of the other T2s I've had. This 7 is so fast its scary.
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Take that shit easy until it's broken in.
But I'm glad everything worked out for you. |
Originally Posted by AGreen
(Post 11096298)
Once it's fully warmed up, the TPS should be sending exactly 1.000 volts to the ECU. Nothing more, nothing less, ever. That is the part b you're talking about.
Or even better yet, show me where it states the setting is to be 1v +/- 0. |
Originally Posted by Turbonut
(Post 11096618)
Do you think I make this up, ever read the FSM? Guess not, then you'd see that there is no mention of a final setting of 1v, or any setting of 1v for that matter. The final adjustment is made with the light method, and that is Part 2.
Or even better yet, show me where it states the setting is to be 1v +/- 0. |
Look, I have read the FSM numerous times. I also know that I understand electrical theory better than about 99% of people on this forum. I understand that using that stupid little (1970's era technology) LED checker does work, but all I'm saying is that the FSM was probably written with the thought in mind that the technicians who will be working on these cars were probably high school dropouts. For instance, the FSM gives numerous instances where resistance checks are the "correct" way for determining if a part is good or bad. What they didn't account for was the fact that the engine harness was not weather-tight, and over the years the connectors will corrode, the wires will age, etc. The TPS could, in fact, be set to 1k ohms at idle, engine fully warm, but if the harness is dropping voltage, it'll never run right. When you have the ability to check voltage vs. checking resistance, or using Mazda's archaic 2-LED checker, I'm going to choose voltage readouts. The voltage won't lie to you, I promise.
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The ECU is reading the voltage (and voltage drop), IIRC. We tap into the TPS lead at the ECU with the Zeitronix as User1. Hailers emphasizes backporting at the ECU - I assume because it takes into account - as AGreen notes - the degradation of the grounds, connectors and leads and shows what the ECU is really seeing.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11096695)
The pinout chart provided in the FSM states the narrow range, pin 2F, is to be 1 volt at idle as well as w/key to on w/engine warmed.
Originally Posted by AGreen
(Post 11096827)
Look, I have read the FSM numerous times. I also know that I understand electrical theory better than about 99% of people on this forum. I understand that using that stupid little (1970's era technology) LED checker does work, but all I'm saying is that the FSM was probably written with the thought in mind that the technicians who will be working on these cars were probably high school dropouts. For instance, the FSM gives numerous instances where resistance checks are the "correct" way for determining if a part is good or bad. What they didn't account for was the fact that the engine harness was not weather-tight, and over the years the connectors will corrode, the wires will age, etc. The TPS could, in fact, be set to 1k ohms at idle, engine fully warm, but if the harness is dropping voltage, it'll never run right. When you have the ability to check voltage vs. checking resistance, or using Mazda's archaic 2-LED checker, I'm going to choose voltage readouts. The voltage won't lie to you, I promise.
Guess I’ll leave it there as this could go on forever, but just wanted to air my side of the story. |
Then why is the full range stated at .8 volts and not 1 volt or .25 volts if 1 volt would be a sufficient value. Just a thought and that's all for learning should be a non stop adventure.
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Sorry but I've used the factory/FSM method which is the two LED light method and the end result is approx 1vdc. I've done this time and time again and the two light method results in approx 1vdc each time. So if one just uses a meter or a RTEK 2.0 with Palm and sets the output to one volt dc that makes just as much sense as fiddling with the two LED lights method and the meter or Palm mitt RTEK 2.0 is so much easier to use.
Setting the TPS to 0.95vdc or 1.05 vdc does NOTHING to idle or mixture at all. It makes NO diff if the setting is .95 or 1.05. Read the online training manual as to just what the TPS input does for the ECU. One thing it does is set zones of operation and the other is to control the solenods that in turn control the ACV. |
Originally Posted by HAILERS2
(Post 11097291)
Sorry but I've used the factory/FSM method which is the two LED light method and the end result is approx 1vdc. I've done this time and time again and the two light method results in approx 1vdc each time. So if one just uses a meter or a RTEK 2.0 with Palm and sets the output to one volt dc that makes just as much sense as fiddling with the two LED lights method and the meter or Palm mitt RTEK 2.0 is so much easier to use.
Setting the TPS to 0.95vdc or 1.05 vdc does NOTHING to idle or mixture at all. It makes NO diff if the setting is .95 or 1.05. Read the online training manual as to just what the TPS input does for the ECU. One thing it does is set zones of operation and the other is to control the solenods that in turn control the ACV. Hey, I guess it's what works for you. |
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