ok, so i went and tried to adjust my TPS on my S5 TII, and since i installed a new TB with the mod done it had to be reset and tuned, so i started adjusting the stop screw to get a good idle, but when i went to put the connectors on the "A" and "B" prongs it would read somewhere around 1.7kohm, so i turned and turned the screw all the way to the right to get it to drop and it wont go under 1kohm and the screw is almost maxed out, when i go to read the wide throttle TPS it reads the same as the narrow, am i doing something wrong?, is there another way to adjust the idle without the stop screw?, the narrow make's a clean sweep to 5.5kohm, the wide apparently only make's it to 4.5kohm....

ECA
FDB ------(the TPS plug)

i've searched and everything, but i'm stumped, if i remember correctly when i adjusted the TPS the last time it was at .700kohm oh wide AND narrow, but i couldnt get it that low if i tried right now and i've cranked the screw, idea's!?..

 

A to B should read between 0.8 and 1.2 kohm
D to E should read between 0.6 and 0.8 kohm.

Figures are at rest.

Your TPS might just be shot. What is it reading now after you adjusted it?

 

reads a steady 1kohm....

but how do i adjust the narrow and wide independantly?, is that even possible or should i be more concerned with the wide?...

it's just out of adjustment after all the mods i installed, i had to move this TPS from my old TB to the new one, i just cant get it as low as .700kohm without the car idling, unless there's a way to adjust the idle other then the stop screw?...

 

Are you adjusting the idle with the throttle stop screw???

Cause the correct way to do this, is to remove the blind cap on the BAC(Bypass Air Control) valve, uncovering the idle speed screw and having the testconnector grounded(pin 1-green).

Adjust the idle speed to 750rpm +-25rpm, cap the BAC valve again and remove the jumper wire, you used to ground the testconnector.

 

how the hell!?..

i have NO idea how to do that, could you give me the run down?, whats the blind cap?...

and yes i've been tuning my idle with the stop screw....

 

k shoot me your e-mail in a pm, and i'll give you the heads up...

 

"Archangels", you should have the instructions in your hotmail inbox!!!

 

ok so, the dyno was a bust, i DONT have a screw on my BAC to adjust the idle, so i'm pretty screwed i believe....

any other hints or advice would be great right about now....

 

If all else fails you can rig up your on stop screw at the throttle body. My BAC went bad and I did that until I could get a new one.
Jeremy

 

I guess people don't read your .sig which says you own a J-spec FC...
bhahhahHAHAhHHAHHHA
J-spec 13BT's don't have the idle adjustment screw on the BAC valve.
doh

You can't adjust the full-range TPS independently.
It's only used for the OMP (and some other minor things) anyways.


-Ted

 

RETed, your my rotary hero, but at the same time, how can i get the narrow to 1kohm like people suggest, and the wide to .750kohm?...

thats all i need really, and before i had these mods i didnt have a problem getting it there, right now both hover around 1kohm though, i set the narrow and the wide followed....

heeeeeeeeelp....

 

Check in the FSM Here

Go to page 82 and you will find your answer

 

Archangles, you already have the correct instructions for setting the TPS, like i wrote, you only set one of the two bands, the engine management has an auto-adjust system to adapt the narrow and full band...

Not good, you lost the dyno run, but admitingly it was a bit tight on time....

Anyway as said yesterday, get your TPS dialed in first... Sorry i didn't pick up on the J-Spec, but anyway the TPS had to be set, before adjusting the BAC(if available)

 

a talon manipulated the dyno for an honest to god, 6hrs last night so they are having some time today....

i was late for the appt. since my car died on the way there, i didnt think optima red batteries sucked....

 

any other idea's on how to adjust the idle guys?...