here's the deal:
i tried the tps check thing, with both the home made LED checker and voltmeter...
with the LED checker, i couldn't fine the exact part number for the LED assembly, i just bought something similar...
supply voltage - 12v, 16v max
current - 12mA, 20mA max
so this should be alright??? but no matter how much i turn the tps screw, neither LED lights up... same thing with the voltmeter, i always get the reading of 0 and never 12 on either prong...
i've tried clockwise and counterclockwise...
i tried jumping the 2 prong green connector, tried grounding each wire separately... nothing seems to be giving me any reading...??
am i doing something wrong??? or is my tps just out of wack??
or are my diagnostic connectors just not working the way they're supposed to...
i tried the dianostic check in the 6 prong green connector, and they dont even light up either... i get nothing??? wtf??

help please...

 

I had the same problem. I made the two led tester by
twisting the two red leads together and pluging them
into the top of the three pin connector by the air filter. Of course each of the two black go in to the two bottom
of the three pin connector. I turned both directions and got nothing. Then I did the resistance test w/ WOT and
closed throttle and still didn't get correct reading. My
resitance stayed the same no matter what position the throttle
was in. So I bought a new Mazda TPS(278.50), see my
thread, "how much my new TPS cost". Now I get the leds
lit just like the test explains.

Brad89RX7

 

How is your car running, gas milage, idle, exceleration?

 

You did bring the car to operating Temp, and have the
ignition on, Engine off?

 

I have had good results cleaning the TPS with CRC "QD Contact Cleaner" from Home Depot.
Spray it in the gap between the TPS barrel & sleeve.
Work it in - blow it out - repeat.
A cheap dial VOM should smoothly sweep from ~1K to ~5K ohms as you push in on the TPS plunger.
I take it off & test it on the bench.

That stuff is also good for door lock position sensors, logicon buttons & sliders, stereo pots, sholder belt retractor limit switches, etc..

 

Why take it off? He wants a good clean reading while it's
on the car. I don't think the TPS housing affects your reading
while mounted on the car. If it does you have a problem
and would want to find out.

If you do take it off, beware of the third screw on the underside.
You will have to remove the air intake to your throttle
body to get to this screw.

 

You are never suppost to get the full 12 volts for the tps because is a computer input device. 5 volts is pretty much all you will get. I was planning to built that led light thing but i might just set the tps up with a voltmeter. Is there any thing wrong with that?? ANd the sensor was suppost to be test with keyon engine off.

 

What does it mean if you can't shut out either LED? There is no middle ground, either one clicks on, or the other. One of them is always on. I replaced my TPS to no avail. Maybe I need to do that TPS cleaning with the contact cleaner.