Greetings all,

The time has come to replace my TPS. I have been poking around on the web and local parts stores to obtain a new one. As some may know already, there are several brands and prices vary incredibly $150 to almost $400.

As I have a couple of days until I must order one, I wanted to enquire with the group here and see from people's experience if there might be some brands to definitely stay away from, or likewise hands-down better than the rest.

I also feel that this might be a decent thread for the forums, as when reading the forums, it seems as one of the biggest problems is the TPS. So this just might give a bit more information for those out there needing one.

Cheers
Murias

 

i didn't think there WERE different brands! where is the $150 one?

 

Delphi, Standard and I think Denso makes TPS I believe, and they are cheaper than OEM. Was in the same boat as you and just ended up purchasing a new OEM one, but couldn't find them for anywhere near $150 though.

 

I have come across the following brands and prices:
BWD - $224
Standard - $176 up to $205
factory - which I think was close to $400
airtex - $200
mazdatrix - $227
echlin(napa) - $254

somewhere along the line I had closed out the tab with the $150 tps, but it does exist. I think I discredited that one.

I'm leaning toward the Standard. Anyone have any bad / good luck with this one?
Cheers
Murias

 

i always just scouted out for a good oem one off an engine, then used it.

Lloyd

 

I bought an OEM one from Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda for about $200. That was a few years ago, it's probably more expensive now.

I bet those other ones work fine assuming that there wasn't a mistake in the parts catalog. And they may all come from the same supplier anyway, despite the brand. For all you know, the Mazda/OEM TPS is the exact same part as these aftermarket ones. They have a different color electrical connector than the original ones from 25 years ago.

 

Yeah, I've got 2 or 3 good ones laying around my garage that I've picked up at junk yards for next to nothing.

 

The problem with used ones is that their useful life is already limited.

I don't have experience with any of those, but do you have links? I found the NAPA piece last night, but before then didn't even knew they existed outside of Mazda sources.

 

I've tried going the used route. This is the reason I am getting a new one. Not into wasting the time every 6 months or so replacing it and then dialing it in over and over. I have found that just because it measures fine with the resistance test, that does not mean it will last longer than a week.

O'reilly has the BWD
partsgeek - standard
rockauto - standard & airtex
autozone - duralast

This list not completely complete, but gets the most of them.

Hope this helps some out there.
Cheers
Murias

 

How can u test a tps to see if it's bad ?

 

Use the search function, it's been covered on how to test the TPS and properly adjust it as well~

 

When the car is as warm as it can get the voltage on the Green/Red wire of the TPS should read 1 volt at idle and as the throttle is depressed to the point where the piston of the TPS is extended fully the voltage should read close to 5 volts and the voltage should increase gradually and not jump about. An analog meter which displays readings via a needle are the best to use.

The TPS can also be tested w/the TPS disconnected using the ohm method.

 

i'd order the cheapest one, and hope that the oem mitsubishi* part falls out of the box....



*mitsubishi makes the sensors, now you know why its the most unreliable part of the car

 

Satch is 100% right, just kinda going into a little more detail

A TPS can appear to be in good condition using a digital multimeter, but to properly test it you need an analog meter to do a sweep test. As you depress the plunger slowly, the needle should move smoothly without any sudden spikes up or down from 1v to 5v.

The digital meter cannot really show you any voltage drops or spikes.


Also, I have successfully fixed voltage drops by spraying contact cleaner between the housing and the plunger and working it in and out about 20 or so times. It's not a permanent fix, because at that point it's on it's way down the drain, but it's worth a shot to get more life out of a $200 sensor.

 

Wat should it be at in ohms properly adjusted do u kno because I've been searching for a thread on it and found nothing

 

Idle position: 1 kΩ

 

Just wanted to give a follow up.

I got the intermotor (standard) brand from RockAuto. It is indeed the exact that would come from Mazda. Mitsubishi logo all over it, same numbers on it as the stock, and wire colors are exact also.

Hoping this helps someone in the TPS world out there.

Cheers
Murias

 

yes! that is good news