Towing the FC
07-22-10, 02:59 PM
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Towing the FC
Planning on putting my FC on a tow dolly, front wheels in the air and taking it to NC and back, like 1400 miles round trip.
I'm planning on putting stock wheels with junk tires on the rear end so I don't put miles on my sticky tires. I'm also planning on removing the driveshaft.
If I remove the driveshaft and put the front end in the air, am I going to lose gear lube out the tailshaft of the transmission?
I'm planning on putting stock wheels with junk tires on the rear end so I don't put miles on my sticky tires. I'm also planning on removing the driveshaft.
If I remove the driveshaft and put the front end in the air, am I going to lose gear lube out the tailshaft of the transmission?
07-22-10, 05:27 PM
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neutral will be more than enough. no reason to remove the driveshaft. also why would you put "junk" tires on it while towing? tires dont stop wearing just cause your towing it.
07-22-10, 08:19 PM
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Shaolin.
If you are getting the Tow dolly from a rental place such as Uhaul,they do have flatbed type Car dollies and they rent them fairly cheaply.
Just double check the actual Dolly itself before you get it,I have heard Horror Stories about UHaul and their Trucks,I don't wanna hear about your Car passing YOU on the freeway.
(btw,all I have is a Steel Hoodlatch)
If you are getting the Tow dolly from a rental place such as Uhaul,they do have flatbed type Car dollies and they rent them fairly cheaply.
Just double check the actual Dolly itself before you get it,I have heard Horror Stories about UHaul and their Trucks,I don't wanna hear about your Car passing YOU on the freeway.
(btw,all I have is a Steel Hoodlatch)
07-23-10, 07:11 AM
#7
Amen on that. Speaking from personal experience, before you accept a trailer or dolly at U-Haul make sure you closely examine the exact one that you will be renting. Especially check the tires and wheels. I rented one of their trailers and the tires were so bad--actually large chunks of tread missing--I swore I would never touch one of their trailers again. Eventually went out and purchased an inexpensive trailer.
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07-23-10, 09:03 AM
#8
From my experience with towing:
FWIW, I have a tow dolly and have towed a couple of FC's over 300 miles and several others short distances, up to 25 miles or so. I used my tow dolly for some other cars up to 700 miles.
When I tow an FC, I back the car onto the dolly. I then remove the battery neg cable, leave the keys in the ignition to 'ON' and bungee the steering wheel into the straight ahead position. No worry about the transmission oiling, removing the driveshaft etc. Backing the FC on gives better clearance on short ramps as well. If the car is seriously lowered, you may have clearance issues with the front of the car scraping, but this has not been an issue for me on FC's with stock suspension height.
In this arrangement, the car tows GREAT. I can hardly tell that the dolly and the towed vehicle is back there. I have towed with different tow vehicles ( Ford E150, Dodge half ton, Toyota Tundra) the dolly tows pretty much the same from vehicle to vehicle. I trailered a car back from Scottsdale AZ on a nice 16' tandem axle trailer and have towed some other trailered cars locally for some friends; I would never prefer to put a car onto a trailer after using my tow dolly.
A good tow dolly is a far superior tow to a good trailer, in my experience.
Good Luck, be careful!
Another suggestion: You might buy a tow dolly for $4-500, then resell it when you get to your destination. I paid $500 for mine. It is aluminum and has surge brakes.
When I tow an FC, I back the car onto the dolly. I then remove the battery neg cable, leave the keys in the ignition to 'ON' and bungee the steering wheel into the straight ahead position. No worry about the transmission oiling, removing the driveshaft etc. Backing the FC on gives better clearance on short ramps as well. If the car is seriously lowered, you may have clearance issues with the front of the car scraping, but this has not been an issue for me on FC's with stock suspension height.
In this arrangement, the car tows GREAT. I can hardly tell that the dolly and the towed vehicle is back there. I have towed with different tow vehicles ( Ford E150, Dodge half ton, Toyota Tundra) the dolly tows pretty much the same from vehicle to vehicle. I trailered a car back from Scottsdale AZ on a nice 16' tandem axle trailer and have towed some other trailered cars locally for some friends; I would never prefer to put a car onto a trailer after using my tow dolly.
A good tow dolly is a far superior tow to a good trailer, in my experience.
Good Luck, be careful!
Another suggestion: You might buy a tow dolly for $4-500, then resell it when you get to your destination. I paid $500 for mine. It is aluminum and has surge brakes.
07-23-10, 09:22 AM
#9
FWIW, I have a tow dolly and have towed a couple of FC's over 300 miles and several others short distances, up to 25 miles or so. I used my tow dolly for some other cars up to 700 miles.
When I tow an FC, I back the car onto the dolly. I then remove the battery neg cable, leave the keys in the ignition to 'ON' and bungee the steering wheel into the straight ahead position. No worry about the transmission oiling, removing the driveshaft etc. Backing the FC on gives better clearance on short ramps as well. If the car is seriously lowered, you may have clearance issues with the front of the car scraping, but this has not been an issue for me on FC's with stock suspension height.
In this arrangement, the car tows GREAT. I can hardly tell that the dolly and the towed vehicle is back there. I have towed with different tow vehicles ( Ford E150, Dodge half ton, Toyota Tundra) the dolly tows pretty much the same from vehicle to vehicle. I trailered a car back from Scottsdale AZ on a nice 16' tandem axle trailer and have towed some other trailered cars locally for some friends; I would never prefer to put a car onto a trailer after using my tow dolly.
A good tow dolly is a far superior tow to a good trailer, in my experience.
Good Luck, be careful!
Another suggestion: You might buy a tow dolly for $4-500, then resell it when you get to your destination. I paid $500 for mine. It is aluminum and has surge brakes.
When I tow an FC, I back the car onto the dolly. I then remove the battery neg cable, leave the keys in the ignition to 'ON' and bungee the steering wheel into the straight ahead position. No worry about the transmission oiling, removing the driveshaft etc. Backing the FC on gives better clearance on short ramps as well. If the car is seriously lowered, you may have clearance issues with the front of the car scraping, but this has not been an issue for me on FC's with stock suspension height.
In this arrangement, the car tows GREAT. I can hardly tell that the dolly and the towed vehicle is back there. I have towed with different tow vehicles ( Ford E150, Dodge half ton, Toyota Tundra) the dolly tows pretty much the same from vehicle to vehicle. I trailered a car back from Scottsdale AZ on a nice 16' tandem axle trailer and have towed some other trailered cars locally for some friends; I would never prefer to put a car onto a trailer after using my tow dolly.
A good tow dolly is a far superior tow to a good trailer, in my experience.
Good Luck, be careful!
Another suggestion: You might buy a tow dolly for $4-500, then resell it when you get to your destination. I paid $500 for mine. It is aluminum and has surge brakes.
07-23-10, 11:02 AM
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FWIW, I have a tow dolly and have towed a couple of FC's over 300 miles and several others short distances, up to 25 miles or so. I used my tow dolly for some other cars up to 700 miles.
When I tow an FC, I back the car onto the dolly. I then remove the battery neg cable, leave the keys in the ignition to 'ON' and bungee the steering wheel into the straight ahead position. No worry about the transmission oiling, removing the driveshaft etc. Backing the FC on gives better clearance on short ramps as well. If the car is seriously lowered, you may have clearance issues with the front of the car scraping, but this has not been an issue for me on FC's with stock suspension height.
In this arrangement, the car tows GREAT. I can hardly tell that the dolly and the towed vehicle is back there. I have towed with different tow vehicles ( Ford E150, Dodge half ton, Toyota Tundra) the dolly tows pretty much the same from vehicle to vehicle. I trailered a car back from Scottsdale AZ on a nice 16' tandem axle trailer and have towed some other trailered cars locally for some friends; I would never prefer to put a car onto a trailer after using my tow dolly.
A good tow dolly is a far superior tow to a good trailer, in my experience.
Good Luck, be careful!
Another suggestion: You might buy a tow dolly for $4-500, then resell it when you get to your destination. I paid $500 for mine. It is aluminum and has surge brakes.
When I tow an FC, I back the car onto the dolly. I then remove the battery neg cable, leave the keys in the ignition to 'ON' and bungee the steering wheel into the straight ahead position. No worry about the transmission oiling, removing the driveshaft etc. Backing the FC on gives better clearance on short ramps as well. If the car is seriously lowered, you may have clearance issues with the front of the car scraping, but this has not been an issue for me on FC's with stock suspension height.
In this arrangement, the car tows GREAT. I can hardly tell that the dolly and the towed vehicle is back there. I have towed with different tow vehicles ( Ford E150, Dodge half ton, Toyota Tundra) the dolly tows pretty much the same from vehicle to vehicle. I trailered a car back from Scottsdale AZ on a nice 16' tandem axle trailer and have towed some other trailered cars locally for some friends; I would never prefer to put a car onto a trailer after using my tow dolly.
A good tow dolly is a far superior tow to a good trailer, in my experience.
Good Luck, be careful!
Another suggestion: You might buy a tow dolly for $4-500, then resell it when you get to your destination. I paid $500 for mine. It is aluminum and has surge brakes.
Anyone else have an opinion on backing the car on? Seems like it would be a lot less stable like that, the toe in on the alignment is now toe out and the wheels might turn, and it's not designed to be rolled like that high speeds, etc....just makes me a little nervous.
Could I unbolt the driveshaft from the differential, slide it towards the transmission a bit and somehow tie it to the bottom of the car? This would disconnect it from the differential but prevent me from losing any fluid. (Although, with my luck, I'd probably lose the damn driveshaft...haha)
07-23-10, 11:10 AM
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Also, car is lowered on racing beat springs, so it's not a huge drop, but the intercooler hangs kinda low in front, about 2.5" below the bumper, so I'm guessing that would be an issue.
Disconnect the driveshaft when towing rear-wheels down? Yes or no?
I think the owner's manual, and uhaul both may say YES.
As far as the tranny goes, synchros make a bit of noise when they spin up and down (and some gears are louder than others) but no grinds...yet.
Disconnect the driveshaft when towing rear-wheels down? Yes or no?
I think the owner's manual, and uhaul both may say YES.
As far as the tranny goes, synchros make a bit of noise when they spin up and down (and some gears are louder than others) but no grinds...yet.
07-23-10, 12:55 PM
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From what I've read, this is necessary on automatic RWD vehicles as there is no fluid circulating.
This is nececessary on RWD vehicles that have the fluid splashers on the input shaft. I have no idea how the RX-7 tranny works.
Better safe than sorry, I'm going to unbolt the driveshaft from the differential and hardcore wire it to the bottom of the car, and duct-tape it to the transmission so it doesn't slip off.
Will update when horrible, horrible failure occurs.
This is nececessary on RWD vehicles that have the fluid splashers on the input shaft. I have no idea how the RX-7 tranny works.
Better safe than sorry, I'm going to unbolt the driveshaft from the differential and hardcore wire it to the bottom of the car, and duct-tape it to the transmission so it doesn't slip off.
Will update when horrible, horrible failure occurs.
07-24-10, 09:04 AM
#14
Good Luck, be careful and check your tie downs, 'driveshaft suspension support jury-rig' system 3-4 time in the first couple of miles. Often the ratchet for the straps will need a couple of clicks after everything settles.
I usually double check everything at the initial load up spot. If I have a friend helping me, nothing personal but I always check everything they have secured. I check again at the first parking lot I can pull into, even if it is just a block or two away. Then I check again in a mile or so. I try to check EVERYTHING 2-3 times before I ever get on a highway. Once these initial checks are done I can haul *** down the highway with out a worry.
Might sound a little ****, but the total of all these extra checks is maybe 10 minutes tops. Beats the heck out of having my towed vehicle careening through traffic on by itself.
I then recheck everything at each gas/bathroom/food stop.
I have never had a problem, I have never had a failure of anything when towing. I plan to never have a problem.
Also, when you get the dolly, never rely on the lights on that unit. They sit outside, the wiring degrades in the sunlight, the grounds corrode etc. Total pain in the butt to keep lights working on an intermittently used tow dolly. I bought a nice magnetic light setup from Uhaul for less than $30. They work great. Just stick the lights onto the rearmost fenders, tie up the cord and take off. I keep it in the box with a bunch of 10" long zip ties to use for securing the cord. They stay dry and protected until I need them-then they always work.
Good Luck!
I usually double check everything at the initial load up spot. If I have a friend helping me, nothing personal but I always check everything they have secured. I check again at the first parking lot I can pull into, even if it is just a block or two away. Then I check again in a mile or so. I try to check EVERYTHING 2-3 times before I ever get on a highway. Once these initial checks are done I can haul *** down the highway with out a worry.
Might sound a little ****, but the total of all these extra checks is maybe 10 minutes tops. Beats the heck out of having my towed vehicle careening through traffic on by itself.
I then recheck everything at each gas/bathroom/food stop.
I have never had a problem, I have never had a failure of anything when towing. I plan to never have a problem.
Also, when you get the dolly, never rely on the lights on that unit. They sit outside, the wiring degrades in the sunlight, the grounds corrode etc. Total pain in the butt to keep lights working on an intermittently used tow dolly. I bought a nice magnetic light setup from Uhaul for less than $30. They work great. Just stick the lights onto the rearmost fenders, tie up the cord and take off. I keep it in the box with a bunch of 10" long zip ties to use for securing the cord. They stay dry and protected until I need them-then they always work.
Good Luck!
07-24-10, 10:17 AM
#15
You do not have to unbolt the drive shaft if you put a elbow in the fill plug on the side of the transmission and fill it to the top then cap off the elbow. The extra fluid in the transmission allows the lubrication of the front internals and you don't have to drain it out after you are done either.
I have done this on many of my 7's and towed the last one 700 miles like this. I personally would not put the car on the tow dolly backwards.
I have done this on many of my 7's and towed the last one 700 miles like this. I personally would not put the car on the tow dolly backwards.
07-24-10, 10:59 AM
#16
If you unbolt the drive shaft from the rear diff just pull it out of the tranny and put it in the back of the truck. That should be safer, it just splines into the trans, so it's not really attached once you unbolt it from the rear diff. You can cap off the overfill hole in the rear diff and wallah you should be golden.
PS - Either put the nuts on the drive shaft bolts, or remove the bolts and don't lose them.
PS - Either put the nuts on the drive shaft bolts, or remove the bolts and don't lose them.
07-26-10, 12:16 PM
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Well, did a little two hour trip last night, preparing for the 12 hour trip later this week.
Tried backing the car on...no dice...front bumper was probably 5 inches off the ground, which left the intercooler about 2 inches off the ground. Way too close for comfort.
We pulled the car on forwards and disconnected the driveshaft. I drilled two small holes through the tranny tunnel and ran a coat hanger around it. It's very secure. I also ran some braided wire through the flange holes and tied it "forward" so it wouldn't slide into the spinning differential flange.
I, too, check the load too often...go around the block and check, get onto a big road and check, and then the on-ramp and every stop thereafter.
One thing I did notice...even with the front wheels on the dolly and the car attached securely to the dolly, the front wheels still wanted to turn when I went around corners. The dolly pivots on it's own, so I figured I should tie the steering wheel straight.
As for the lights, the ones on the dolly were garbage...and light bars were expensive. My idea was to make a plug that disconnects the stock lights on the RX-7 from the body harness and plugs into a 4 prong flat trailer plug. Works like a champ!
Car towed really, really well. I could hardly tell it was back there. I'm not sure what kind of speed I should be doing, I kept it under 70 and had zero issues.
Tried backing the car on...no dice...front bumper was probably 5 inches off the ground, which left the intercooler about 2 inches off the ground. Way too close for comfort.
We pulled the car on forwards and disconnected the driveshaft. I drilled two small holes through the tranny tunnel and ran a coat hanger around it. It's very secure. I also ran some braided wire through the flange holes and tied it "forward" so it wouldn't slide into the spinning differential flange.
I, too, check the load too often...go around the block and check, get onto a big road and check, and then the on-ramp and every stop thereafter.
One thing I did notice...even with the front wheels on the dolly and the car attached securely to the dolly, the front wheels still wanted to turn when I went around corners. The dolly pivots on it's own, so I figured I should tie the steering wheel straight.
As for the lights, the ones on the dolly were garbage...and light bars were expensive. My idea was to make a plug that disconnects the stock lights on the RX-7 from the body harness and plugs into a 4 prong flat trailer plug. Works like a champ!
Car towed really, really well. I could hardly tell it was back there. I'm not sure what kind of speed I should be doing, I kept it under 70 and had zero issues.
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