I was wondering what kind of torque wrenches are needed for an engine rebuild.
Please specify drive size and specific units of force (ie in-lbs or ft-lbs).

 

I used the cheapest craftman (it goes for like $25) and it is up to 100ft-lbs or so...

 

I've got one of those!

 

Me too. But I dont dare use that on my engine.

 

Or you can use the clicking type, you can pick up both inch pounds and foot pounds styles at harbor freight for less than $20 each.

Jimmy you pop the motor in your 10th ae?

 

You need inch pounds for the oil pump bolts, and a foot pound wrench for the rest of the bolts. It should go to 150 Ft-lbs at least for the flywheel nut (torque to 150 ft-Lbs, then use impact to move the nut another 60 degrees for final torque).

The beam wrenches are fine.

 

Which drive size should I get... the 3/8 or the 1/2?
or can a drive adaptor be used?

 

1/2" for the big one, 3/8" for the small one.

 

They only one you need to worry about is the tension bolts.
Those are right about 30 lb-ft.

All the other **** don't really need to be torqued properly (yeah, I can hear the boo's now), and I use the "German" standards or "fukintite" and "titenuf".

The front eccentric shaft bolt is supposed to be around 100 lb-ft, but with the treadlocker / thread sealant, this is not that important to torque down.
I hit it couple times with the impact gun with no problems.

The (rear) flywheel nut is ~300 lb-ft, and you need a 3/4" drive torque wrench or a torque multiplier to hit that number.
There's a seller on eBay who is selling "surplus" Snap-On torque multipliers (4x?) for $150 each - regular price $600!
If I was worried about that flywheel nut, I would grab one of those torque multipliers in a jiffy.

I use only Snap-On torque wrenches.
I've used Sears Craftsman click-type torque wrenches, and they have all fallen apart on me - the nut on the bottom falls off - so I will never use another one again.


-Ted

 

Here is a Snap-on torque wrench for you.



my great grandfather was wrenching on this one back in his younger days, and as far as i know is still accurate. it measures in in. lbs up to 150in lbs.

 

i suggest a 3/8" 5ft/lb to 70ft/lb wrench or so. you can get a good one from Mac or Matco tools. i only use this one torque wrench for everything around an engine rebuild but a good torque wrench will cost you $150+

tension bolts - 29ft/lbs
stat gear bolts - 17ft/lbs
front cover and water pump bolts - 17ft/lbs
LIM to block bolts - 17ft/lbs
exhaust manifolt yo block nuts - 25ft/lbs
oil pan and pickup tube bolts - 7ft/lbs
front eccentric shaft bolt - 2 good hits with my impact gun
flywheel nut - about as tight as i can get it with my impact gun, after a while you just know when 300ft/lbs is with your gun

some numbers may be a little off from spec but that is what i torque my bolts to.

 

This might be useful if you're working on flywheels.


Flywheel Torque Tool

 

"hey mike, did you torque those babies down?"
"yeah man, right to R.F.T."
"R.F.T.?"
"really ******' tight"

An important thing to remember with a real torque wrench is to always put it back to zero when in storage......Ive seen one of my guys reefing the s*%t out of some 25ft/lb bolts with a toruqe wrench that was out of calibration, you don't want to have that happen for your tension bolts.

 

That would be a nice kit if our flywheel nut was 36mm instead of 54mm

 

lol that's right, I forgot our nuts were bigger.

 

I use a 0-75 ft/lbs 3/8" craftsman torque wrench, and my 0-220 ft/lbs 1/2" Snap-On torque wrench.

 

i used my snap on tech wrench
the most gangster of all torque wrenches
it will do inch lbs and ft lbs

 

maybe I should get a reduction job on mine then.

 

Meh... electronic. I like the analog ones, personally.

To each his own, though.

 

That electronic snap-on torque wrench probably costs more than my fc...


Harbor Freight FTW.

 

+1 for the Harbor Freight 1/2" drive torque wrench, I've been using that for a couple of years now without any misses. plus it's only 11.99!