torque wrenches for rebuild...
#1
aim** JI II IM IM Y
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torque wrenches for rebuild...
I was wondering what kind of torque wrenches are needed for an engine rebuild.
Please specify drive size and specific units of force (ie in-lbs or ft-lbs).
Please specify drive size and specific units of force (ie in-lbs or ft-lbs).
#2
B O R I C U A
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Originally Posted by calrx7
I was wondering what kind of torque wrenches are needed for an engine rebuild.
Please specify drive size and specific units of force (ie in-lbs or ft-lbs).
Please specify drive size and specific units of force (ie in-lbs or ft-lbs).
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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You need inch pounds for the oil pump bolts, and a foot pound wrench for the rest of the bolts. It should go to 150 Ft-lbs at least for the flywheel nut (torque to 150 ft-Lbs, then use impact to move the nut another 60 degrees for final torque).
The beam wrenches are fine.
The beam wrenches are fine.
#7
aim** JI II IM IM Y
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Which drive size should I get... the 3/8 or the 1/2?
or can a drive adaptor be used?
or can a drive adaptor be used?
Last edited by calrx7; 07-05-06 at 03:47 PM.
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#9
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They only one you need to worry about is the tension bolts.
Those are right about 30 lb-ft.
All the other **** don't really need to be torqued properly (yeah, I can hear the boo's now), and I use the "German" standards or "fukintite" and "titenuf".
The front eccentric shaft bolt is supposed to be around 100 lb-ft, but with the treadlocker / thread sealant, this is not that important to torque down.
I hit it couple times with the impact gun with no problems.
The (rear) flywheel nut is ~300 lb-ft, and you need a 3/4" drive torque wrench or a torque multiplier to hit that number.
There's a seller on eBay who is selling "surplus" Snap-On torque multipliers (4x?) for $150 each - regular price $600!
If I was worried about that flywheel nut, I would grab one of those torque multipliers in a jiffy.
I use only Snap-On torque wrenches.
I've used Sears Craftsman click-type torque wrenches, and they have all fallen apart on me - the nut on the bottom falls off - so I will never use another one again.
-Ted
Those are right about 30 lb-ft.
All the other **** don't really need to be torqued properly (yeah, I can hear the boo's now), and I use the "German" standards or "fukintite" and "titenuf".
The front eccentric shaft bolt is supposed to be around 100 lb-ft, but with the treadlocker / thread sealant, this is not that important to torque down.
I hit it couple times with the impact gun with no problems.
The (rear) flywheel nut is ~300 lb-ft, and you need a 3/4" drive torque wrench or a torque multiplier to hit that number.
There's a seller on eBay who is selling "surplus" Snap-On torque multipliers (4x?) for $150 each - regular price $600!
If I was worried about that flywheel nut, I would grab one of those torque multipliers in a jiffy.
I use only Snap-On torque wrenches.
I've used Sears Craftsman click-type torque wrenches, and they have all fallen apart on me - the nut on the bottom falls off - so I will never use another one again.
-Ted
#10
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Here is a Snap-on torque wrench for you.
my great grandfather was wrenching on this one back in his younger days, and as far as i know is still accurate. it measures in in. lbs up to 150in lbs.
my great grandfather was wrenching on this one back in his younger days, and as far as i know is still accurate. it measures in in. lbs up to 150in lbs.
#11
Sharp Claws
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i suggest a 3/8" 5ft/lb to 70ft/lb wrench or so. you can get a good one from Mac or Matco tools. i only use this one torque wrench for everything around an engine rebuild but a good torque wrench will cost you $150+
tension bolts - 29ft/lbs
stat gear bolts - 17ft/lbs
front cover and water pump bolts - 17ft/lbs
LIM to block bolts - 17ft/lbs
exhaust manifolt yo block nuts - 25ft/lbs
oil pan and pickup tube bolts - 7ft/lbs
front eccentric shaft bolt - 2 good hits with my impact gun
flywheel nut - about as tight as i can get it with my impact gun, after a while you just know when 300ft/lbs is with your gun
some numbers may be a little off from spec but that is what i torque my bolts to.
tension bolts - 29ft/lbs
stat gear bolts - 17ft/lbs
front cover and water pump bolts - 17ft/lbs
LIM to block bolts - 17ft/lbs
exhaust manifolt yo block nuts - 25ft/lbs
oil pan and pickup tube bolts - 7ft/lbs
front eccentric shaft bolt - 2 good hits with my impact gun
flywheel nut - about as tight as i can get it with my impact gun, after a while you just know when 300ft/lbs is with your gun
some numbers may be a little off from spec but that is what i torque my bolts to.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 07-06-06 at 11:25 AM.
#13
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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Originally Posted by RETed
...and I use the "German" standards or "fukintite" and "titenuf"....
"yeah man, right to R.F.T."
"R.F.T.?"
"really ******' tight"
An important thing to remember with a real torque wrench is to always put it back to zero when in storage......Ive seen one of my guys reefing the s*%t out of some 25ft/lb bolts with a toruqe wrench that was out of calibration, you don't want to have that happen for your tension bolts.
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Originally Posted by MaczPayne
#21
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Originally Posted by MaczPayne
That electronic snap-on torque wrench probably costs more than my fc...
Harbor Freight FTW.
Harbor Freight FTW.
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