S5 TII
Injectors cleaned and balanced by RC Eng
Stock primaries
Secondaries bored out to 1000cc...

Well ever since I've finished putting my motor back together, it has only started two times, but I let go of the throttle for a second too long, and it died and flooded really bad. I found my vacuum leaks, and fixed them (Also forgot to plug the AFM). So after, I pulled the EGI and plugs and cranked the fuel out, but to no avail.

After doing this a couple times, we tried to pull start it at about 25mph. I tried putting it in 1st gear, 2nd gear, and 3rd gear, but after a couple times of letting out the clutch, it flooded the engine out really badly. I jacked the front-end up, to check under the car to make sure of some things, and a big puddle of fuel came spewing out of my downpipe.

So after a month of leaving the plugs off the engine, and just having the car sit there (been busy with school), I tried again. I cranked it over with plugs and EGI out, and surprisingly, still a LOT of fuel inside the engine. I've been cranking with the EGI and plugs out for the past 2 weeks, desperately trying to get all the fuel out of the engine, but each time I crank, the spark plug holes still get covered in fuel.

I don't know know why I have so much damn fuel. The injectors have to be good, since I haven't even logged any miles on them since getting them back from RC. I'm wondering if I flooded it so badly the first time that I still haven't gotten all of the fuel out of the engine yet? Is there any other reason I'm getting so much damn fuel each time I crank?

Am I flooding this badly because my compression is so low from a fresh rebuild? Would ATF help in this case?

 

what are you using to control the secondaries? I would put some stock injectors in first and get it to run well under normal circumstances before putting in the bigger injectors. With the stock S5 computer, you can hold the gas pedal to the floor (before turning the key) and when you do turn the key, the ecu will prevent the injectors from firing. This will allow you to purge the fuel through your exhaust, all you need to do to get the fuel flowing again is let off the pedal. Hope this helps.

 

did you put the 1000cc's in the primarys by mistake?


the car will run like crap after 4000rpm with secondarys that big. but it should start and idle just fine.

 

I agree with Scott. Unless maybe RC gave you the wrong injectors, but theres a small chance of that happening.

 

Arpus... I have an SAFCII controlling the fuel (which is untouched), but regardless, I believe the secondaries shouldn't be opening when I'm cranking. Also, I've tried cranking with the throttle all the way opened up before turning the key, but only after it had flooded so badly...

Scott 89t2 & Ryde_Or_Die... I'm positive I have the secondaries where they are supposed to be on the LIM. I'm also positive I didn't accidently switch the 1000cc's with the 550's because I sent them out separately, and RC engraved a different code onto the modified injector body itself.

Please keep the suggestions coming! My car has been sitting like this for a LONG time! I'd really like to finally get it running!

 

Perhaps one of the fuel injectors is stuck in the open position? If it is adding fuel with the EGI system, that is the only way fuel would continue to be added into the engine.

 

you could try to run the car with the 1000cc injectors disconnected. We all know that if they are hooked up as secondaries on the harness they won't be firing, but it's the only way to make sure since I'm not looking at how you connected them on the harness.

 

Scathcart... Hmm, I'm starting to think I still haven't fully un-flooded the engine yet. I'm quite sure RC wouldn't send me back my injectors without telling me they were leaking though.

Arpus... Good suggestion, although I'm sure I connected the plugs correctly, because I labeled the harness thoroughly. But I'll definately give that a try.

 

Either make a fuel cut switch or pull the plug off the fuel pump. Cranking the engine with it flooded over a long period of time ain't helping the rotor seals, o'rings, rotor housing surfaces.

The idea is to cut the fuel flow off completly. Then spray some starter fluid in the snorkel or air filter and try to start the car. If it won't start briefly when doing this....then there is something else wrong other than fuel. Maybe spark? Timing?

IF the engine does start doing this....don't attempt to keep the thing running by continuous spraying of the fluid. Causes KNOCK. I'd do this just to confirm the engine will start. If it did start doing the preceding, then I'd try with the fuel pump connected. IF it did not start then.......rip it apart and check the wiring to the injectors by colors. And start wondering about the primary injectors servicability.

 

HAILERS... Thanks for the suggestions! I will make myself a fuel cutoff switch and give that a try first. Is there any other way for me to make sure I have totally unflooded my engine though? I can't seem to totally unflood the damn thing.

 

Unplug the pump. Take the lower plugs out. Spin for ten/fifteen seconds. That should do it.

What Arpus said makes sense. Your car should not be injecting gas if you hold the pedal to the metal while cranking. Something is screwy here. You should not have to make a fuel cut switch for that car.

It'd be interesting if you disconnected the fuel pump and had a go at starting the thing with the pedal to the metal. IF it starts momentarily...off the excess gas in the engine...then it'd seem something is amiss with the process of the pedal to the floor method.

Yeah. Disconnect the pump. Spray starter fluid in the intake filter. Foot to the floor and crank. Should start momentarily.

Yes. I was wrong. I shouldn't have mentioned making a fuel cut switch for a series five. It shouldn't be required...unless there's something amiss with that method on your car.