> Before we start the motor's an JDM 13BT similar to the ones that went into the 10th AE that came out here.

> My problem is this. I've tried to adjust timing by the book 5 ATDC Leading/20 ATDC Training, Yellow vs Red... However the closer I get to getting the timing marks aligned on the pulley with the little stick deal, the engine starts to stall out.

> Now, the car idles somewhat inconsistently, but it's close... between 700 - 800 rpms. I know it should be 750 rpms plu/minus 25rpm before I start to check timing. What I need to know is where do I start? I seemed to have run out of places to look. And my brain's just fried from trying.

 

Meaning it's the same as all S4 13BT's...

Maybe the CAS has been removed and reinstalled incorrectly. Take it out and reinstall it as per the instructions in the FSM Fuel System chapter page 4B-51.

 

did you remember to put the jumper wire in the diag port by the battery?

 

> Hmm, I'm not aware of that part. How do I go about that, and is it one of the Green Connectors just hanging around? Send me a pic of some sort. I'm still somewhat new to this whole Rotary Thing.

 

> I did just what the book says. Get the timing marks on pulley aligned to Leading (Yellow) then align marks on CAS before putting it back in. And still the same deal... any adjustments to get the timing marks to retard to 5/20 degs ATDC slowly stalls out the motor.

> Got one question though. Is it possible for the crank pulley to have been installed incorrectly?

 

You don't do that when checking the ignition timing. And you're thinking if the initial set coupler, which is different to the diagnostic connector.

Got me stumped then. Sorry.

Nope, one of the four holes in each pulley is offset, so they'll only go back on one way.

 

Make sure the engine is FULLY warmed up before adjusting the timing. It makes a difference.

Just pay attention to the LEAD timing for now.

Are you looking with a timing light? Engine at idle? Fully hot engine?

It's also possible there are other issues (hate that word *Issues*). It could be there are air leaks etc that won't let the engine idle at the stock timing marks.

See if you can get it to idle anywhere but for sure BELOW 1000 rpm, then look for other *issues* that might cause the thing not to idle. Spray starter fluid around the solenoids, joints and other obvious places that might leak air. Unmetered air at that.

Always make sure the engine is fully warmed up before adjusting anything.

You've been rotating the cas to make the marks align. Right??????????

 

> Yep, I've been following everything by the book when it comes to timing. Like having the engine warmed up, aligning the marks on the CAS before putting it back in, ect, ect. And yes, I've been using a timing light. Which kinda leaves us with the whole idle deal.

> Aside from obvious vaccum leaks... what else would cause a funky Idle in a TII? I've also had to replace then adjust the TPS since it was malfunctioning.

 

Some ideas here:http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html\

About the TPS. Make life easy. With all plugs connected up and the engine fully HOT, backprobe the green/red wire on the TPS plug and set the TPS to one volt dc. Done. Stop messing with it and wasting your time. The green/red is on the chassis side of the TPS plug.

By the way, as long as the engine is hot and the rpms are under 1000 rpm, the timing can be set. So don't worry about the rpms being 800rpm or over. Just keep it below 1000rpm and you'll be ok.

Somewhere over 1100 rpm the ECU self advances the timing and that is why you can't set the timing right at or over that speed.

 

> Cool, thanks.

> BTW, one more thing that I need to also point out. Just having the car run after a few minutes or driven after a few miles and the turbo manifold and the turbine side gets red hot already. Is this a possible sign that the engine's runnign lean or is there something jacked up about the turbo?

 

Could be, could be a clogged up catalytic converter. Or maybe an extremely retarded ignition. Or???

 

> Clogged up Cat eh? That's one direction we haven't looked into yet. BTW I have an aftermarket boost guage hooked up and for some reason this thing does not read a vacuum at idle, it's supposed to isnt' it? I know I have the guage hooked up right.

> The guage seems to just read 0 psi at idle. Any possible connection to the problems above?

 

shouldn't matter if the CAS is off one tooth or not, though the slot will max out before you can reach proper timing but it won't cause a stalling condition.




for the OP try checking the ignition wires again, if you have them crossed you can have the motor run decently but it will not run correctly if they are crossed.

don't just check for vacuum leaks, also visually inspect for any metered air leaks in the intake tract, that will adversely affect the idle.

a plugged cat could cause an idle issue but not likely unless it is almost completely obstructed, the engine would choke up even just trying to free rev it at that point.

the variable resistor in front of the RF strut tower also affects idle but only to an extent, it shouldn't affect the mixtures to the point of the engine wanting to stall out but it could be off a little and not helping with the idle issue.

i really suspect you have your ignition wires crossed or a decent leak of metered air in the intake tract somewhere. first places i would check is double checking the wires to be sure they are leading to the right plugs and then pull off the TID and check it for cracks where it meets the turbo, as far as i have seen about 85% of the ones i have pulled are cracked and leak metered air.

 

> Funny you should mention the TID. There is a somewhat decent crack on it about 2 inches long and 1-1.5mm wide. However I taped the crap out of it using electrical tape. Would that be sufficient enough to hold?

> If it happens to be the TID. What's the best way to fix it. I don't fell like getting another one since it's almost impossible. And I'm just thinking of making my own using good ol' Home-Depot Parts

> As for the Spark Plug Wires, they're going to the right places.

 

> By the way, concerning the turbo. Turbo's in good shape, has no play going in and out and a minute bit going side to side but does not contact the housing. Yet according to the aftermarket boost guage I have, it's reading at 0 PSI even at idle. It's supposed to be at vaccum. What can cause a turbo on a TII to do that?

 

taping it up probably isn't cutting it, best way to fix it temporarily is to clean it up with some brake cleaner and apply some high temp silicone sealant to the crack and let it cure over night then reinstall it after it has sit for 24 hours to harden. tape may cover the outside of the crack but air can still get through the end of the crack and travel around the tape.