2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

timing issues

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Old Nov 1, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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From: phx,az
AZ timing issues

Went to check my timing due to my car not passing emissions and noticed that when I hooked up my timing light to the T1 coil that it was showing the yellow timing mark, it should be on the red timing mark. I not understanding why this is?
Need some help.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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From: phx,az
43 views and no input on what might cause this......
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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Ignore my first suggestion. Your timing has been advanced. Your cas needs to be adjusted or re-stabbed. Or it is failing internally.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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From: phx,az
Book never said to do this ^^^^

It said to make sure the idle was set correctly, which it is.

Ive checked the timing 3 other times the same way and it alway showed the red make on the T1 coil every time.

It seems to drive fine but the power seems to be lacking. It also has spark as well.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 88rota
Book never said to do this ^^^^

It said to make sure the idle was set correctly, which it is.

Ive checked the timing 3 other times the same way and it alway showed the red make on the T1 coil every time.
You are correct. That only applies to idle speed, which is the first step to checking timing.
I deleted my suggestion because I didn't want to provide inaccurate info.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 11:54 AM
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From: phx,az
Ok. I pulled it out and made sure that the two marks were lined up correctly, which they were.

I've adjusted the cas when I had the timing light on the leading coil to the right spot, which was the yellow mark on the pulley.
Then went to the T1 coil and it showed the yellow timing mark.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:00 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
From reading various other timing posts, normally when setting the timing you just need to rely on the leading plug and mark and not have to worry about the trailing aspect of things. What is your idle speed by the way?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:13 PM
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From: phx,az
It's right between 700 & 800 rpms.
And yeah every time I've checked the L1 coil for timing the T1 coil was alway set right.
But this time it was on yellow instead of red. L1 = yellow, T1 = red on the pulley.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Besides checking the timing did you do "anything" else to the car prior to checking the timing?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by 88rota
Ok. I pulled it out and made sure that the two marks were lined up correctly, which they were.

I've adjusted the cas when I had the timing light on the leading coil to the right spot, which was the yellow mark on the pulley.
Then went to the T1 coil and it showed the yellow timing mark.
is the TPS adjusted?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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From: salt lake ut
do you have your coils set right? if L1 and T1 are hitting at the same time, its a good possibility that your plug wires are crossed up and you have L2 on T1. probably not but just a thought.

its my understanding that trailing plugs dont serve for much more than emissions though. i could be wrong
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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From: phx,az
Nope there's no way their crossed.
There are in the correct spot and plugged in correctly.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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I think there's a check plug you need to jump when getting the timing marks. It stops the ecu from adjusting the timing. Must be around 800rpm when doing it too. Over 1k rpm and the ecu will adjust timing.

When in doubt do it a bunch of times and see if it was a fluke.

Also, if you have a daily driver. You can get Collector car insurance in AZ which makes you emissions exempt. I haven't needed to pass emissions in 4 years

If you must pass emissions, a new cat will fix most of your issues.
Other tricks include gutting the ACV diaphragm so the airpump constantly flows to the cat.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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From: phx,az
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
is the TPS adjusted?
I pretty sure its set right. How does that having anything to due with it T1 showing the yellow mark?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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From: phx,az
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
I think there's a check plug you need to jump when getting the timing marks. It stops the ecu from adjusting the timing. Must be around 800rpm when doing it too. Over 1k rpm and the ecu will adjust timing.

When in doubt do it a bunch of times and see if it was a fluke.

Also, if you have a daily driver. You can get Collector car insurance in AZ which makes you emissions exempt. I haven't needed to pass emissions in 4 years

If you must pass emissions, a new cat will fix most of your issues.
Other tricks include gutting the ACV diaphragm so the airpump constantly flows to the cat.
Ok, the cat is new and the car passed 2 years ago without any issues.
And how do I go about the collector car plate because I f7cking hate emssions.
And I need to correct the timing issue anyways because I've noticed that the car seems to lack the power it had before.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 88rota
Ok. I pulled it out and made sure that the two marks were lined up correctly, which they were.

I've adjusted the cas when I had the timing light on the leading coil to the right spot, which was the yellow mark on the pulley.
Then went to the T1 coil and it showed the yellow timing mark.
This sounds like cross-firing (or whatever you call it) between the plug wires.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:57 PM
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From: phx,az
Wires are all plugged in their correct spots.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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By cross-fire, I meant the trailing plugs are firing because the trailing wires are near or touching the primary wires. This creates an inductive current and ends up firing the trailing plug at the same time as the primary. It is exactly how the timing light works. Try uncrossing/separating the front rotor wires and see if it helps. It would be very unlikely that the ecu fails in such a way to consistently fire the trailing coil simultaneously with the leading.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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From: phx,az
Will due
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 01:36 PM
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http://azrx7.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=10924

Step 1. Have a daily Driver and FC as secondary car
Step 2. Call Insurance Company
Step 3. Tell them you want Collector car insurance
Step 4. Tell DMV to screw off and your exempt
Step5. Like a Boss
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:11 PM
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From: phx,az
Nope STILL does the same sh7t.
I'm so sick of this f7cking car!!

I've changed the cas and the trailing coil, still does the same bullsh7t.

Why doesn't the trailing coil light the red mark on my pulley!?!

I'm 2 steps away from placing a brick on the pedal and walking away!
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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From: phx,az
Originally Posted by Digi7ech
http://azrx7.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=10924

Step 1. Have a daily Driver and FC as secondary car
Step 2. Call Insurance Company
Step 3. Tell them you want Collector car insurance
Step 4. Tell DMV to screw off and your exempt
Step5. Like a Boss
This won't work. Its my daily and I driving it to work.
Plus I have full coverage with usaa.
I don't like the restrictions.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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Does the emissions test check both leading and trailing timing or are you just trying to get it to work correctly? I don't think you are hurting anything by running this simultaneous spark as long as the plugs are firing simultaneously on the same rotor. If they are all going off at the same time, you may have issues. Did you look at the smog chart in the faq for symptoms and fixes?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 05:45 PM
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^^^^^ no I haven't.
I passed f7cking emissions finally!
Pulled a vac line, denatured alcohol, and retared my timing a little. Passed with flying colors! Yeah!
But I'm still confused about the coils and the timing issues.

I remembered before the trailing coil was on the red mark but its still on the yellow.
It doesn't make any Sence to me??

Now am I right or wrong about this? Leading coil is on the yellow make with the timing light and the trailing is on the red with timing light at idle at 750rpms?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:17 PM
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Hooray for results! Good job on the test. Did you happen to try the initial set coupler and tps? My only idea is your leading could be retarded and your trailing is normal based on ecu inputs. So they end up on the same spot.
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