timing issues
11-02-11, 07:35 PM
#26
talking head
needs set couple bridge,, needs to have dial back timing light set on zero
and wires well separated from the leading wires cause a good light will often "hear" the inductive signal from the leading wires
which fire first and dont leave a recharge period long enough for the light to also flash with the trailing induction signal
hence it "looks" like timing is at the leading mark when it is not
sometimes it is caused by noisy plugs or so -so leads and it may pay to disconnect the leading coil while you check
or better get a cheap ( non inductive pickup ) timing light and try that in the dark
( they tend to give a smudged effect when looking at the marks, just go for the far left of the smudge )
and wires well separated from the leading wires cause a good light will often "hear" the inductive signal from the leading wires
which fire first and dont leave a recharge period long enough for the light to also flash with the trailing induction signal
hence it "looks" like timing is at the leading mark when it is not
sometimes it is caused by noisy plugs or so -so leads and it may pay to disconnect the leading coil while you check
or better get a cheap ( non inductive pickup ) timing light and try that in the dark
( they tend to give a smudged effect when looking at the marks, just go for the far left of the smudge )
11-03-11, 12:25 AM
#27
^^^ I did mess with the tps a bit.
But I had advanced my timing on the second pass through emissions due to it not passing the first initial emissions test, and it fail bad, worst then the first test. There went 30.00 bucks!
So the 3 pass through I pulled a vacuum line, to run it lean just for the test. Then I re-tared the time a bit and ran denatured alcohol. STILL didn't pass, but barley failed by a hair!
So went back add a bit more alcohol and went back up and what do you know the son b7tch passed!
*I ******* HATE EMISSIONS*
But as far as the coils go, my buddy said the same thing as you did about the computer taking over the one coil.
But the book says that if the leading coil is on the yellow mark, then the trailing coil should be on the red.
Which it isn't. That's why I'm scratching my head
But I had advanced my timing on the second pass through emissions due to it not passing the first initial emissions test, and it fail bad, worst then the first test. There went 30.00 bucks!
So the 3 pass through I pulled a vacuum line, to run it lean just for the test. Then I re-tared the time a bit and ran denatured alcohol. STILL didn't pass, but barley failed by a hair!
So went back add a bit more alcohol and went back up and what do you know the son b7tch passed!
*I ******* HATE EMISSIONS*
But as far as the coils go, my buddy said the same thing as you did about the computer taking over the one coil.
But the book says that if the leading coil is on the yellow mark, then the trailing coil should be on the red.
Which it isn't. That's why I'm scratching my head
11-03-11, 01:09 AM
#28
needs set couple bridge,, needs to have dial back timing light set on zero
and wires well separated from the leading wires cause a good light will often "hear" the inductive signal from the leading wires
which fire first and dont leave a recharge period long enough for the light to also flash with the trailing induction signal
hence it "looks" like timing is at the leading mark when it is not
sometimes it is caused by noisy plugs or so -so leads and it may pay to disconnect the leading coil while you check
or better get a cheap ( non inductive pickup ) timing light and try that in the dark
( they tend to give a smudged effect when looking at the marks, just go for the far left of the smudge )
and wires well separated from the leading wires cause a good light will often "hear" the inductive signal from the leading wires
which fire first and dont leave a recharge period long enough for the light to also flash with the trailing induction signal
hence it "looks" like timing is at the leading mark when it is not
sometimes it is caused by noisy plugs or so -so leads and it may pay to disconnect the leading coil while you check
or better get a cheap ( non inductive pickup ) timing light and try that in the dark
( they tend to give a smudged effect when looking at the marks, just go for the far left of the smudge )
I just don't understand why when I checked it when I put the motor in it showed both yellow and red and now it only shows yellow on both coils?
I'm also using the magnacore 10mm wires, i mean their not cheap, if that matters? unless it could still mess with the spark between the two.
I also noticed that with the cas when I line the gear at the bottom up with housing of the cas and go to place it Into the motor that the gear goes off the mark.
Is this normal?
I pulled the cas cover off and marked on one of the gears so I can see if it will slip off its mark when I place it in its place. That's when I noticed it moving forward as I put in into the motor.
11-07-11, 12:19 PM
#29
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11-08-11, 10:49 AM
#32
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The pulley will have a couple of notches in it and the one on the right is the leading mark.[/QUOTE]
That pulley i think was on wrong because i lined the needle up with the small notch to the right, then I pulled the CAS and lined it up re-stabbed it and nothing happens but a small sputter.
I have removed the vacuum nest, i also have a EGR block off plate. all the vacuum lines have been blocked off that needed to be.
I've also de-flooded it multiple times. I have my MAS plugged in, and no vacuum leaks
That pulley i think was on wrong because i lined the needle up with the small notch to the right, then I pulled the CAS and lined it up re-stabbed it and nothing happens but a small sputter.
I have removed the vacuum nest, i also have a EGR block off plate. all the vacuum lines have been blocked off that needed to be.
I've also de-flooded it multiple times. I have my MAS plugged in, and no vacuum leaks
11-08-11, 11:00 AM
#33
The car does not start
11-08-11, 11:06 AM
#34
The pulley will have a couple of notches in it and the one on the right is the leading mark
That pulley i think was on wrong because i lined the needle up with the small notch to the right, then I pulled the CAS and lined it up re-stabbed it and nothing happens but a small sputter.
I have removed the vacuum nest, i also have a EGR block off plate. all the vacuum lines have been blocked off that needed to be.
I've also de-flooded it multiple times. I have my MAS plugged in, and no vacuum leaks
That pulley i think was on wrong because i lined the needle up with the small notch to the right, then I pulled the CAS and lined it up re-stabbed it and nothing happens but a small sputter.
I have removed the vacuum nest, i also have a EGR block off plate. all the vacuum lines have been blocked off that needed to be.
I've also de-flooded it multiple times. I have my MAS plugged in, and no vacuum leaks
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