13BNUT

iTrader: (8)

I have an 86 GXL and the car would start up fine when cold but as soon as it warms up the car doesn't hold at idle, and it struggles to start again.
I checked the compression today (front~70, rear~70) the spark plugs dont have any oil on them and car doesn't smoke when starting.

Is it time for a rebuild??? I would like to since I have the time right now
If I do rebuild what would be best for N/A. BRIDGEPORT or STREETPORT.

SureShot

If it starts when cold, it may be borderline.
I assume you know you need at least 250 cranking RPMs & a warm engine to get real compression numbers.
It sounds like now is good time.

If you're looking for power, that port job will need to breathe with at least a CAI & header.

13BNUT

iTrader: (8)

sorry but was is a CAI???
not too familiar with 2nd Gens

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

it does sound liek the motor is on its way out....if you have the time and bread now I'd suggest freshening it up, since a seal kit is far cheaper than new housings if you turn over a seal and groove a housing or iron...

as far as porting goes...if you have emissions where you are I wouldn't recommend a full bridge...Id say go with a nice combo port....street port your primaries and bridge your secondaires

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

C-old
A-ir
I-ntake

SureShot

CAI = Cold Air Intake.

The stock air box & snorkel will strangle a port job.

Check out the FAQ threads pinned at the top of the forum. They have lots of good info, including common abbreviations.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

As stated, get a partial bridge: bridge the aux ports and secondaries so you can retain realtively normal driving and idle.

13BNUT

iTrader: (8)

Is that was is considered a half-bridge port or is that totally different.

13BNUT

iTrader: (8)

well I finally removed the engine on Saturday and have it down to the bare block.
I removed the oil pan and noticed some brown varnish on the bottom of the rear housing,
Does this mean the housing is no good??
Can I get a used rotor housing to replace it and rebuild it?

Chief_MC

Post a pic of that varnish... Sure you can get a used housing and use it if it is within specs...

DirkyDirka

ummm this makes me nervous.....caus ethats what my car is doing, when cold it starts right up, when it warms up after 3+ minutes of driving if i like goto store or something and turn off....it wont turn back on for like 10 minutes it trys to some then it just floods and doesnt do anything so like when i got gas today i saty there for 20 minutes at pump till my car would start. i really cant afford a rebuild at ALL i already n debt a bit could i tjust need a tune up? it was running ok then i brang it to shop to get smog stuff put on and afterwards it started backfiring and this problem started occuring any help is very appreciated! thx

Tony

13BNUT

iTrader: (8)

Try checking your compression and you will have a better idea.
Good Luck

BlueTII

We recommend a rebuild for anything with compression less than 85 psi. Simply because at that point the apex seals a very worn and can let go anytime.

The quick fix for hot start problems is to install a fuel cut switch at the injector opening relay under the dash. This of course does not fix the root cause of the problem but it allows you to cut the fuel to the injectors, so that the car will fire up. It works well to avoid embarrasing parking lot situations.

13BNUT

iTrader: (8)

Well I finally got the damn Flywheel off and removed the rear housing and it doesn't look good. check it out
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...GXL/GXL004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...GXL/GXL003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...GXL/GXL001.jpg

I didn't know it could break on the Iron housings, well the rear rotor housing seems to be ok, no scratches and all the seals, apex and all are in tact on the rear rotor.

Can I get a used rear housing and still rebuild this motor????

13BNUT

iTrader: (8)

anybody that can help