time for radiator??
04-05-10, 02:48 PM
#1
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time for radiator??
Howdy ladies & gents, been a while since I've been active on the boards.
At the track (3.1 mile roadcourse) my car was running pretty hot. It was a 75 degree day, according to my gauge the car was up to around 220F.
Time for a bigger radiator??
Motor is n/a, mild 6-port job, fuel adjusted via safc, shooting for around 13.5 afr @ wot. RPM’s stayed 5k+ for the day though I backed off the gas on the straights, I was getting nervous about the temp.
Stock radiator, t-stat controlled e-fan. Though at the speeds (50-100mph) I doubt the e-fan did much.
What do you think?? I plan to flush & fill with maybe 30/70 coolant/water, current is 50/50. This should help but not by much… I’d like to be able to track the car @ wot all day in 100F heat.
The long version follows, for those who want to read
I finally quit procrastinating & took the '90 GTUs to a track day at Eagle's Canyon Raceway, not far from where I live. It's a nice big road course.
150 bucks bought an instructor for 3 25-minute sessions throughout the day. I was 'green' class of course, no previous experience. My group also had an M6, subie sti, vw GTI, a recent Z06, among others…
I went there to start learning car control and cornering. I actually did pretty well, I’d say only the GTI driver was better @ choosing the right lines. I was faster around corners than anyone else I encountered at the track, though most of them could pull on the straights.
There was some money there: half a dozen GT3’s, 911t and n/a, Caymen, Boxster, the afore-mentioned M6, M5, Dinan M3, an Ultima GTR, various Mudstang GT500, Steeda, Lotus Elise, etc. Good times! 90/10 cool/***** ratio, not bad at all! good guys mostly
several of the Porsches did the patented "Porsche J-Turn Maneuver": ***-first into the grass! Nothing major though, just good times.
At the track (3.1 mile roadcourse) my car was running pretty hot. It was a 75 degree day, according to my gauge the car was up to around 220F.
Time for a bigger radiator??
Motor is n/a, mild 6-port job, fuel adjusted via safc, shooting for around 13.5 afr @ wot. RPM’s stayed 5k+ for the day though I backed off the gas on the straights, I was getting nervous about the temp.
Stock radiator, t-stat controlled e-fan. Though at the speeds (50-100mph) I doubt the e-fan did much.
What do you think?? I plan to flush & fill with maybe 30/70 coolant/water, current is 50/50. This should help but not by much… I’d like to be able to track the car @ wot all day in 100F heat.
The long version follows, for those who want to read
I finally quit procrastinating & took the '90 GTUs to a track day at Eagle's Canyon Raceway, not far from where I live. It's a nice big road course.
150 bucks bought an instructor for 3 25-minute sessions throughout the day. I was 'green' class of course, no previous experience. My group also had an M6, subie sti, vw GTI, a recent Z06, among others…
I went there to start learning car control and cornering. I actually did pretty well, I’d say only the GTI driver was better @ choosing the right lines. I was faster around corners than anyone else I encountered at the track, though most of them could pull on the straights.
There was some money there: half a dozen GT3’s, 911t and n/a, Caymen, Boxster, the afore-mentioned M6, M5, Dinan M3, an Ultima GTR, various Mudstang GT500, Steeda, Lotus Elise, etc. Good times! 90/10 cool/***** ratio, not bad at all! good guys mostly
several of the Porsches did the patented "Porsche J-Turn Maneuver": ***-first into the grass! Nothing major though, just good times.
04-06-10, 09:29 PM
#2
Hawt. 30/70 won't make a difference. Your temp will drop a little, but so will the boiling point. Doesn't hurt either, though I wouldn't go below 30. Even a strong e-fan is weak compared to the stock clutch fan but yeah at those speeds it doesn't matter anyway. I think coolant boils around 240-250 but 220 is a bit hot. Since overheats are the most common killer of these engines a better radiator may be a good precaution. You can also try Evan's coolant, which is good up to 330 or so without boiling. I think too much above 200 might accelerate seal wear regardless, but at least that'll take tens of thousands of miles rather than 1 minute of pushing the car too hard.
Other things you can do to drop temps a little include making sure foam or something else is sealing off the passages around the radiator (that's not where you want the air to go), make sure you still have your plastic (or other) undertray under the engine bay, mix distilled water with your antifreeze to prevent sediment buildup, change the thermostat and coolant annually along with other basic maintenance, and most of all use only OEM thermostats. Water wetter or similar is also good for a couple degrees.
Other things you can do to drop temps a little include making sure foam or something else is sealing off the passages around the radiator (that's not where you want the air to go), make sure you still have your plastic (or other) undertray under the engine bay, mix distilled water with your antifreeze to prevent sediment buildup, change the thermostat and coolant annually along with other basic maintenance, and most of all use only OEM thermostats. Water wetter or similar is also good for a couple degrees.
04-06-10, 10:43 PM
#3
First-post up the picture of the 7 along with it's pretty new friends.
REmember, it's a cooling system and many small details may contribute to better controlling your temps.
Good advice/\ check the foam seals, undertrays etc. In other words, ducting. Make sure that all the air goes where it is supposed to go.
Tracking the car definitely calls for an upgrade radiator-clokker and a couple others have been happy with the Godspeed Radiator. It is dual-pass and available for reasonable price on ebay.
What efan are you using and at what temp are you switching? A more powerful fan will make a difference. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/end-all-all-fc3s-electric-fan-895916/
It's nonsense to say that the fan does not help at speed. If your fan becomes a restriction on the highway at speed you have a pussyfan. That is a technical term.
The factory fan works hard on the highway at high temps, as it engages and disengages strictly by air temps temperature.
My Lincoln Mark VIII efan locks my temp at 180*, barely letting the thermostat open. I really need to switch it at a higher temp. This condition maintains until ambient temps exceed 90*-95* and I start running the A/C. Then temps may crawl up to 185* to 190*. On a 100* plus day on the highway with the a/c on, I might reach 200*. I have the undertray in place and all the factory ducting intact. BTW, I alsoi have a large Griffin radiator rated for 400+hp.
I have experimented by unhooking the temp switch and driving at light suburban as well as highway speeds, relying only on ram air. The temps are definitely higher at speed with the fan off.
I can also tell you about Evans Coolant. I have been running Evans for around 4 years now with a non-pressurized system. The stuff is pretty awesome. An important advantage is the high boiling point. I have run my temps up to 280* to hot purge the residual water out of the cooling system. You cannot boil the stuff. This is critical for the racetrack. When you are running fast and hot, then pull into the pit you can have an event called afterboil. The cooling system is unable to expel the heat when the engine slows down, the cooling flow slows down then Blam the coolant violently boils. Evans won't afterboil, it just doesn't happen. You can pull off the track, open the hood and immediately take off the radiator cap.
Good Luck!
REmember, it's a cooling system and many small details may contribute to better controlling your temps.
Good advice/\ check the foam seals, undertrays etc. In other words, ducting. Make sure that all the air goes where it is supposed to go.
Tracking the car definitely calls for an upgrade radiator-clokker and a couple others have been happy with the Godspeed Radiator. It is dual-pass and available for reasonable price on ebay.
What efan are you using and at what temp are you switching? A more powerful fan will make a difference. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/end-all-all-fc3s-electric-fan-895916/
It's nonsense to say that the fan does not help at speed. If your fan becomes a restriction on the highway at speed you have a pussyfan. That is a technical term.
The factory fan works hard on the highway at high temps, as it engages and disengages strictly by air temps temperature. My Lincoln Mark VIII efan locks my temp at 180*, barely letting the thermostat open. I really need to switch it at a higher temp. This condition maintains until ambient temps exceed 90*-95* and I start running the A/C. Then temps may crawl up to 185* to 190*. On a 100* plus day on the highway with the a/c on, I might reach 200*. I have the undertray in place and all the factory ducting intact. BTW, I alsoi have a large Griffin radiator rated for 400+hp.
I have experimented by unhooking the temp switch and driving at light suburban as well as highway speeds, relying only on ram air. The temps are definitely higher at speed with the fan off.
I can also tell you about Evans Coolant. I have been running Evans for around 4 years now with a non-pressurized system. The stuff is pretty awesome. An important advantage is the high boiling point. I have run my temps up to 280* to hot purge the residual water out of the cooling system. You cannot boil the stuff. This is critical for the racetrack. When you are running fast and hot, then pull into the pit you can have an event called afterboil. The cooling system is unable to expel the heat when the engine slows down, the cooling flow slows down then Blam the coolant violently boils. Evans won't afterboil, it just doesn't happen. You can pull off the track, open the hood and immediately take off the radiator cap.
Good Luck!
04-07-10, 08:48 AM
#4
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Thanks for the feedback - I'll be investigating the Evan's and the Godspeed
The stock factory ducting is all there and in good shape. Rediator is a stock replacement radiator, only 3-4yrs old. Maintenance has been done: Mazda t-stat, annual flush/fill with 50/50 distilled water & coolant.
I am unsure what efan it is. It fits like factory, has an a/c switch, and temp switched to come on @ 180f. previous owner was a meticulous dude, I suspect it's a nice Black magic or siimilar. Have not looked close enough...
The track is the only time I've seen it run hot. The car has a/c and a mild 6-port job, so a decent heat load for a stock radiator. I've never been past 190f in 'normal' driving including 'spirited' driving in 90-100f summer heat.
track use was of course 5k-8k, it's a pretty big road course, so on the throttle a LOT.
I did take advantage of the cool-down lap to actually lower revs & cool down. once I got out of the gas the car cooled off within a couple minutes.
The stock factory ducting is all there and in good shape. Rediator is a stock replacement radiator, only 3-4yrs old. Maintenance has been done: Mazda t-stat, annual flush/fill with 50/50 distilled water & coolant.
I am unsure what efan it is. It fits like factory, has an a/c switch, and temp switched to come on @ 180f. previous owner was a meticulous dude, I suspect it's a nice Black magic or siimilar. Have not looked close enough...
The track is the only time I've seen it run hot. The car has a/c and a mild 6-port job, so a decent heat load for a stock radiator. I've never been past 190f in 'normal' driving including 'spirited' driving in 90-100f summer heat.
track use was of course 5k-8k, it's a pretty big road course, so on the throttle a LOT.
I did take advantage of the cool-down lap to actually lower revs & cool down. once I got out of the gas the car cooled off within a couple minutes.
04-07-10, 09:05 AM
#5
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my car. crappy pic, sorry!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9993474@N03/4500144522/" title="smaller by al.croy, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4500144522_e00586eb6f.jpg" width="500" height="245" alt="smaller" /></a>
short specs:
Rotary Ressurection 6-port mild job, CDI ignition, Apexi safc, functional air pump & 5/6 ports, a/c, p/s
Centerforce dual-friction clutch, short throw shifter
Full RB from header to tip
KYB/Eibach in front, RE Amemiya coilovers in back
Suspension Technologies full bushing & mount kit, Dunlop Sport Z1, Hawk pads
all SS lines
Corbeau seats & 4-point harnesses
I'm the limiting factor by far
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9993474@N03/4500144522/" title="smaller by al.croy, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4500144522_e00586eb6f.jpg" width="500" height="245" alt="smaller" /></a>
short specs:
Rotary Ressurection 6-port mild job, CDI ignition, Apexi safc, functional air pump & 5/6 ports, a/c, p/s
Centerforce dual-friction clutch, short throw shifter
Full RB from header to tip
KYB/Eibach in front, RE Amemiya coilovers in back
Suspension Technologies full bushing & mount kit, Dunlop Sport Z1, Hawk pads
all SS lines
Corbeau seats & 4-point harnesses
I'm the limiting factor by far
04-07-10, 11:55 AM
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Can't speak to whether you *need* a radiator, but a thick all-aluminum radiator is a good investment both in engine longevity and physical health (in that you can sleep better at night). Plus they look really nice -- when people look under my hood that's the first thing they comment on!
In my case I replaced my radiator when the plastic connector broke on the top end tank. I learned my lesson (don't use screw-type clamps on plastic fittings) but in the end I think it was worthwhile.
In my case I replaced my radiator when the plastic connector broke on the top end tank. I learned my lesson (don't use screw-type clamps on plastic fittings) but in the end I think it was worthwhile.
04-07-10, 02:57 PM
#7
You need to keep her pinned on the straights, get more speed, push more air through! Just kidding. I am going to go right ahead and contradict jackhild - no fan should matter at 50mph+ speeds - not really even at 50km/h (30mph) speeds for that matter, if it's not stop and go. At 50mph, far more air should be moving through your rad due to aerodynamic pressure than a fan can move - the fan just needs to free-wheel and get out of the way, so to speak.
I can lap in higher temps (and the local track has a looong front straight, I hit about 120mph, WOT the whole way), and never see my temp move above what it does in normal driving - stock rad, all ducting, stock clutch fan, and undertray in place. Your rad should be good, if it was filled with distilled and not mineral laden well water or something like. My car has the factory ecu, so it will of course be running much richer AFRs, which may be the difference. If you have an efan, I assume the factory shroud is replaced with a shroud to fit the efan, like in the thread Jackhild linked?
Maybe try some water wetter - might help if your water pump is cavitating at high engine speeds (likely). Beyond that - better rad is a good idea anyway.
I assume you've checked your rad and oil cooler for dust/grass/litter buildup (have to remove the undertray to do it well). When I first got my 7, the bottom 6 inches in particular was pretty packed with poplar fluff, dust, and so on, so I vacuumed it out well.
I can lap in higher temps (and the local track has a looong front straight, I hit about 120mph, WOT the whole way), and never see my temp move above what it does in normal driving - stock rad, all ducting, stock clutch fan, and undertray in place. Your rad should be good, if it was filled with distilled and not mineral laden well water or something like. My car has the factory ecu, so it will of course be running much richer AFRs, which may be the difference. If you have an efan, I assume the factory shroud is replaced with a shroud to fit the efan, like in the thread Jackhild linked?
Maybe try some water wetter - might help if your water pump is cavitating at high engine speeds (likely). Beyond that - better rad is a good idea anyway.
I assume you've checked your rad and oil cooler for dust/grass/litter buildup (have to remove the undertray to do it well). When I first got my 7, the bottom 6 inches in particular was pretty packed with poplar fluff, dust, and so on, so I vacuumed it out well.
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04-07-10, 06:39 PM
#8
You need to keep her pinned on the straights, get more speed, push more air through! Just kidding. I am going to go right ahead and contradict jackhild - no fan should matter at 50mph+ speeds - not really even at 50km/h (30mph) speeds for that matter, if it's not stop and go. At 50mph, far more air should be moving through your rad due to aerodynamic pressure than a fan can move - the fan just needs to free-wheel and get out of the way, so to speak.
I can lap in higher temps (and the local track has a looong front straight, I hit about 120mph, WOT the whole way), and never see my temp move above what it does in normal driving - stock rad, all ducting, stock clutch fan, and undertray in place. Your rad should be good, if it was filled with distilled and not mineral laden well water or something like. My car has the factory ecu, so it will of course be running much richer AFRs, which may be the difference. If you have an efan, I assume the factory shroud is replaced with a shroud to fit the efan, like in the thread Jackhild linked?
Maybe try some water wetter - might help if your water pump is cavitating at high engine speeds (likely). Beyond that - better rad is a good idea anyway.
I assume you've checked your rad and oil cooler for dust/grass/litter buildup (have to remove the undertray to do it well). When I first got my 7, the bottom 6 inches in particular was pretty packed with poplar fluff, dust, and so on, so I vacuumed it out well.
I can lap in higher temps (and the local track has a looong front straight, I hit about 120mph, WOT the whole way), and never see my temp move above what it does in normal driving - stock rad, all ducting, stock clutch fan, and undertray in place. Your rad should be good, if it was filled with distilled and not mineral laden well water or something like. My car has the factory ecu, so it will of course be running much richer AFRs, which may be the difference. If you have an efan, I assume the factory shroud is replaced with a shroud to fit the efan, like in the thread Jackhild linked?
Maybe try some water wetter - might help if your water pump is cavitating at high engine speeds (likely). Beyond that - better rad is a good idea anyway.
I assume you've checked your rad and oil cooler for dust/grass/litter buildup (have to remove the undertray to do it well). When I first got my 7, the bottom 6 inches in particular was pretty packed with poplar fluff, dust, and so on, so I vacuumed it out well.
BTW, what are you watching, when the temps don't go up over normal driving? The oem temp gauge or an aftermarket temp guage? Just curious, because you do know that the stock oem temp gauge has a clamping circuit to stay in the center of the dial? 180* raises the pointer to horizontal and then it doesn't exceed horizontal until around 250*+. The saying is that the S5 temp gauge shows only three temps-Cold, Operating, and New Engine.
I'm just saying...
04-07-10, 06:47 PM
#9
my car. crappy pic, sorry!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9993474@N03/4500144522/" title="smaller by al.croy, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4500144522_e00586eb6f.jpg" width="500" height="245" alt="smaller" /></a>
short specs:
Rotary Ressurection 6-port mild job, CDI ignition, Apexi safc, functional air pump & 5/6 ports, a/c, p/s
Centerforce dual-friction clutch, short throw shifter
Full RB from header to tip
KYB/Eibach in front, RE Amemiya coilovers in back
Suspension Technologies full bushing & mount kit, Dunlop Sport Z1, Hawk pads
all SS lines
Corbeau seats & 4-point harnesses
I'm the limiting factor by far
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9993474@N03/4500144522/" title="smaller by al.croy, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/4500144522_e00586eb6f.jpg" width="500" height="245" alt="smaller" /></a>
short specs:
Rotary Ressurection 6-port mild job, CDI ignition, Apexi safc, functional air pump & 5/6 ports, a/c, p/s
Centerforce dual-friction clutch, short throw shifter
Full RB from header to tip
KYB/Eibach in front, RE Amemiya coilovers in back
Suspension Technologies full bushing & mount kit, Dunlop Sport Z1, Hawk pads
all SS lines
Corbeau seats & 4-point harnesses
I'm the limiting factor by far
04-08-10, 09:10 AM
#10
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.....My car has the factory ecu, so it will of course be running much richer AFRs, which may be the difference. If you have an efan, I assume the factory shroud is replaced with a shroud to fit the efan, like in the thread Jackhild linked?
Maybe try some water wetter - might help if your water pump is cavitating at high engine speeds (likely). Beyond that - better rad is a good idea anyway.
I assume you've checked your rad and oil cooler for dust/grass/litter buildup (have to remove the undertray to do it well). When I first got my 7, the bottom 6 inches in particular was pretty packed with poplar fluff, dust, and so on, so I vacuumed it out well.
Maybe try some water wetter - might help if your water pump is cavitating at high engine speeds (likely). Beyond that - better rad is a good idea anyway.
I assume you've checked your rad and oil cooler for dust/grass/litter buildup (have to remove the undertray to do it well). When I first got my 7, the bottom 6 inches in particular was pretty packed with poplar fluff, dust, and so on, so I vacuumed it out well.
afr's: I was running mid 11's at wot before the safc! now at 13.5-14. more powa! but more heat too. all that extra gas is great coolant.
shroud: efan shroud, fits well
water wetter: i have some in the garage. Will drain & refill radiator with 30/70 coolant/water this weekend.
buildup: will check this too. thanks for mentioning. given the owner/useage history I doubt it's bad, but bears checking.
04-08-10, 10:04 PM
#13
Did some rough calculations and the e-fan flow is less than or equal to 1/3 the natural air flow at 50 mph, dunno if that means the fan is contributing none of the flow or if it means it's putting in 1/4 of the flow. That might still do something so I didn't say anything before.
Yeah water wetter works better with more water and 30/70 is still within acceptable limits, so that might give you a few degrees. If you really want to make a big difference there's the radiator (lower temps) and Evan's (same or slightly higher temps, but far higher boiling point). I'd get the radiator out of paranoia, but I have no idea if it's really necessary.
Yeah water wetter works better with more water and 30/70 is still within acceptable limits, so that might give you a few degrees. If you really want to make a big difference there's the radiator (lower temps) and Evan's (same or slightly higher temps, but far higher boiling point). I'd get the radiator out of paranoia, but I have no idea if it's really necessary.
04-09-10, 08:03 AM
#14
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this weekend will involve flush/fill 30/70, water wetter, cleaning the fins, and making sure all the ducting is in place.
if it goes past 190-200 after all the above, radiator time!!
04-09-10, 06:49 PM
#15
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I bought the cx racing 2.5in all aluminum radiator off ebay for $200 had to trim a bunch looks fantastic but dosnt flow good. 40/60 mix big taurus e fan even a 170 stat but hard spirited driving makes it creep even at high speeds. Have a npr fmic taking up my front bumper though. Probably going koyo N flow here shortly
04-09-10, 09:30 PM
#16
04-10-10, 01:14 AM
#17
Did some rough calculations and the e-fan flow is less than or equal to 1/3 the natural air flow at 50 mph, dunno if that means the fan is contributing none of the flow or if it means it's putting in 1/4 of the flow. That might still do something so I didn't say anything before.
Yeah water wetter works better with more water and 30/70 is still within acceptable limits, so that might give you a few degrees. If you really want to make a big difference there's the radiator (lower temps) and Evan's (same or slightly higher temps, but far higher boiling point). I'd get the radiator out of paranoia, but I have no idea if it's really necessary.
Yeah water wetter works better with more water and 30/70 is still within acceptable limits, so that might give you a few degrees. If you really want to make a big difference there's the radiator (lower temps) and Evan's (same or slightly higher temps, but far higher boiling point). I'd get the radiator out of paranoia, but I have no idea if it's really necessary.
I think you are making stuff up, or at best just repeating something you read somewhere...that someone else made up.
04-10-10, 01:18 AM
#18
Be sure to check outside temperature again to be fair. A change of 1 degree outside equals a change of 1 degree on the radiator. I checked weather records for dallas, texas and the average hottest day of the year is 96. The record is 118. So on the worst realistic day you could expect temps to be 20 degrees higher than now. I checked the boiling point of coolant; it's 268 for 50:50 at 15 psi, though you could get some localized "hot spots" as you get close to that temperature. I also found some cooling system recommendations at Racing Beat and they really know their stuff: http://www.racingbeat.com/FRrotary.htm . Not that I necessarily condone doing this but I used to have an old beat up RX-7 that ran at around 205-210 all the time on normal roads for several months. So in the end it's up to you on how safe you want to be.
I agree that Racing Beat knows their stuff, but what exactly did you find about cooling on the racing beat site that so impressed you that you had to post this praise? Specifically.
04-10-10, 09:04 AM
#19
So do those calculations on this thread for us, please? I want to know how came up with the numbers and *exactly* how you determined the flow of this efan and also *exactly* how you calculated and determined the flow of the stock fan.
I think you are making stuff up, or at best just repeating something you read somewhere...that someone else made up.
I think you are making stuff up, or at best just repeating something you read somewhere...that someone else made up.
As for outside temperature considerations, that should be fairly accurate within the narrow range that the OP is testing. At higher temps it may partially fall apart, warranting a margin of safety just in case it does, but it still makes pretty good engineering sense. It's the best he has to go on without complicated calculations which you did not provide. So unless you have a better method, chill.
Racing Beat is well known to have a good reputation around here. If you need evidence then search the forums for "Racing Beat", but again that kind of criticism was unwarranted. Racing Beat has some numbers and recommendations on their web site, and I tossed in my own limited experience to help the OP can decide for himself.
04-12-10, 11:10 AM
#20
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Looked at it a bit closer over the weekend
-shrouds are in good shape
-fan is a Flex-a-lite and is a bit small
-gasket around fan is not perfect
-looks the radiator is from an AUTO - see the oil cooler lines??
-Checked my records, I flushed & filled with 40/60 about 12mo ago.
-Hoses are in good shape
-Belt tension is good, belts in good shape
-radiator/oil cooler look clean from the front: not new but pretty clean.
given the above I'm leaning towards:
-replace rad with Godspeed 1-pass or similar
-then repalce e-fan with bigger e-fan or go to stock mech. fan if necessary
thoughts??
-shrouds are in good shape
-fan is a Flex-a-lite and is a bit small
-gasket around fan is not perfect
-looks the radiator is from an AUTO - see the oil cooler lines??
-Checked my records, I flushed & filled with 40/60 about 12mo ago.
-Hoses are in good shape
-Belt tension is good, belts in good shape
-radiator/oil cooler look clean from the front: not new but pretty clean.
given the above I'm leaning towards:
-replace rad with Godspeed 1-pass or similar
-then repalce e-fan with bigger e-fan or go to stock mech. fan if necessary
thoughts??
04-12-10, 11:12 AM
#21
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Note that this car has a/c (further reducing flow through radiator & increasing load on the system), and temps in TX range from 80 to 105 or so in the summer. It gets warm....
The track day was about 75f and the car was running hot. So a substantial improvement is needed!
The track day was about 75f and the car was running hot. So a substantial improvement is needed!
04-12-10, 06:51 PM
#22
I assume you checked undertray and foam around the radiator? That's still minor though. If you want a large improvement the only thing that will do that is a new radiator. Evan's is also tremendous for reliability b/c it is virtually unboilable, but it will leave your temp the same or probably increase it a little. But again, the difference between running a little hot and boiling is a little more wear over tens of thousands of miles vs. boom time for a rebuild immediately (as soon as you overheat and keep driving for a minute or so in spite of it). Though according to Racing Beat a rapid rise in temp from a thermostat stuck closed or such could cause some damage even from exceeding 200 F. Still, more related to total failure than a low performance part.
The only reason informed people replace a broken stock fan with an e-fan when the stock fan is stronger is because an e-fan is cheaper, easier to install and often good enough. IMO stick with what you have or get a quality e-fan, but I dunno if it'll make any difference. More information here: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/efaninstall.htm
The only reason informed people replace a broken stock fan with an e-fan when the stock fan is stronger is because an e-fan is cheaper, easier to install and often good enough. IMO stick with what you have or get a quality e-fan, but I dunno if it'll make any difference. More information here: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/efaninstall.htm
04-12-10, 08:22 PM
#23
Sorry for double post, but too late to edit. See also e-fan myths: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/efanmyth.htm.
And ya there may be other misc. situational reasons for an e-fan, but that's off-topic.
And ya there may be other misc. situational reasons for an e-fan, but that's off-topic.
04-13-10, 08:13 AM
#24
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I assume you checked undertray and foam around the radiator? That's still minor though. If you want a large improvement the only thing that will do that is a new radiator. Evan's is also tremendous for reliability b/c it is virtually unboilable, but it will leave your temp the same or probably increase it a little. But again, the difference between running a little hot and boiling is a little more wear over tens of thousands of miles vs. boom time for a rebuild immediately (as soon as you overheat and keep driving for a minute or so in spite of it). Though according to Racing Beat a rapid rise in temp from a thermostat stuck closed or such could cause some damage even from exceeding 200 F. Still, more related to total failure than a low performance part.
The only reason informed people replace a broken stock fan with an e-fan when the stock fan is stronger is because an e-fan is cheaper, easier to install and often good enough. IMO stick with what you have or get a quality e-fan, but I dunno if it'll make any difference. More information here: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/efaninstall.htm
The only reason informed people replace a broken stock fan with an e-fan when the stock fan is stronger is because an e-fan is cheaper, easier to install and often good enough. IMO stick with what you have or get a quality e-fan, but I dunno if it'll make any difference. More information here: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/efaninstall.htm
I think it's time for big new radiator!
I suspect the p/o went the efan route to 'gain hp' or one of the other typical reasons. Having been around these boards for a while, I've seen some of the info on the effectiveness of the stock system! If the e-fan becomes the limiting factor with a new radiator, I'll hit the classified & go back to a stock setup.
My previous car was the 'evilforum car' from (BDC's first 'x-type' bridgeport iirc). It made 400whp on lo boost. With a Koyo and stock fan/shroud, it stayed plenty cool, temp never budged.
Thanks for all the feedback & info!
