Pls express your opinion and concern on the car... i would like to get it but am very new to rotaries and hope to hear more feedbacks from fellow experience TII owners if i should jump on this deal or not thanks

1990 Mazda RX-7 GTU

S4 TII Conversion with Complete S4 Drivetrain

Black with Black/Grey Interior

-Large street-ported engine rebuilt by Banzai Racing in August 2004 (0 miles on rebuild),
-MSD Ignition,
-Banzai Racing TID,
-MSD plug wires,
-850cc secondary injectors,
-brand new 550cc primary injectors,
-vacuum line simplification with block-off plates,
-Greddy E-01 electronic boost controller,
- dual alternator pulley,
-Optima Red Top battery,
-full custom 3" exhaust system,
- Racing Beat FCD,
-brand new calipers,
-pads and rotor all-around,
-FD fuel pump,
-E-fan,
-Apexi boost & EGT gauges (A-Pillar mounted) & throttle body mod.
-AC removed and manual rack installed.

Rust starting on rear quarters


this car is built by Chris Sanders from Banzai Racing

 

First - it's a fresh rebuild, so no boost allowed until after break in.

Second - This is going to be a dangerous to inexperienced drivers, high maintenance car.
If you wallet, skill & self control are up to it - go.

 

high maintainence? serious?

even if i boost it 8psi and not any higher? it wont be reliable and always break down easily?

 

How much?????

Looks like some of the mod work that you would end up doind anyway has already been done......

I'm a little leary of E-Fans on TII's..... But if the A/C is gone thats better.. What type of E-Fan???

 

How much?????

Looks like some of the mod work that you would end up doing anyway has already been done......

I'm a little leary of E-Fans on TII's..... But if the A/C is gone thats better.. What type of E-Fan???

High maintenance...... well, its all a matter of opinion..... this car doesn't seem to be any worse than any other 7.. but remember, rotaries eat spark plugs and turn motor oil into slime. you need to change your oil often, I reccomend every 1500-2000 miles, this car apparently still has the oil injection system set up, therefore, engine oil is injected into the rotor housings to lubricate them. Dirty oil leads to the quick falure of a rotary.

Also, this car is a frankenstein.... I don't care if it WAS done by Chris, who really does know his ****, its a car that wasn't originally designed to have that drivetrain in it.... (I assume that by complete Drivetrain it means that the rear end and drive shafts were exchanged as well). Things can happen.

Bottom line is, how much????

 

As yearsOfDecay said, how much?

also, as sureshot said, new rebuilt, so no Boost...
if u want to kill your engine, go ahead... =)

i mean, stuff like this for the TII is "high maintenance" the break in now that u have to do, freaquent oil change, check oil, add oil every 1000 miles, constantly checking spark plugs, etc..... if u are planning to buy that highly modded sports car, remember it is a sports car even if it is old.... so u still have to take good care of it.....

also put this into your cost, i don't know about passing smog in your area, and also, should use Higher octane..... well are u willing to spend that amount for high octane and maybe some conversions (electric air pump? Hi-flow cat?) for u to pass smog?? just some questions for u to think about....

 

haha no smog requirement here in my state.....

yea oil changes are not considered that high maintainence for me

the car is priced at 3900......... so is it worth it?

 

Yes - 3900 would be a good very deal anound here. (NE FL)

 

Don't expect to only boost to 8psi, looks like with your mods you could creep higher than that easily.

 

however for 3,900 I would never pass up such a car

 

For $3900 it better have an aftermarket ECU.

Stock ECU? No way.

 

for reference i've heard only great things about banzai racing. I say if you want it go for it. I can't see him screwing somebody over from the reputation he has in michigan.

 

you better get it I'm emailing chris right now jk. Good deal though!!!

 

what the HELL are you tralking about??!!? it bet it has a stock TII ecu, people sell TII's with STOCK TII ECU's for +5000 grand all the time..........

 

alright thanks for the input all... but i guess i have some problems of my own to deal with too right now...looks like i wont be getting the car after all since chris wouldnt want to sell it to me . sigh* all i did was ask a lot of questions =~(

anyway can someone tell me how bad the rust is on the car? and do u think its fixable and wont be a safety hazard?

thank you

i dont mind on frequent oil change? what about the break in period? how many miles without boost? if during the break in period means i cant drive it back on highway since it would be hitting 3-4k rpm which means a lil boost?

 

during break in you shouldn't have it over 4k under any circumstances. You don't hit boost unless you put the pedal down too far regardless of rpm. You can be at redline and not hit boost.

 

For me personally, I'd rather get a car with fewer mods and NO RUST. It devalues the car, looks ugly and can lead to the car being unsafe to drive. Once it strarts it's very hard to stop. It can also spread very quickly and in a couple years it might be a total rust bucket.

 

i just want the car for 2 years or less than that...

anyone thinks its worth it? or know a way i could fix rust? i calculated a fewer mods car if later done up with rebuilt will cost much more....