tandolla

iTrader: (1)

alright i have searched and i cant find it maby someone can give me a link to another thread where this has been discussed, but i couldnt find anything,


my question is what wires do i extend on the NA harness, in a s4 na to TII swap? .

! i dont feel like getting yeld at because this has been discussed many times, i know it has but i couldnt find it.. so plz leave your rude comments to your self. !

RussTII

iTrader: (4)

you don't.
swap the harness and the ecu along with the motor. Cheapest easiest, and fastest way.

check out rotaryresurrection.com (sp?)

And do some more research on s4/s5 FC's. It will be harder if you go s4->s5 and vice versa.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

no the swap is already done with the NA harness, i just need to extend this 1 plug that i have been told about , but i dont know which one it is.. i staid s4 with s4

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I would think BAC since NA's are on drivers side while TII's are on passenger side due to the UIM placement.

HAILERS

For the twin scroll solenoid to work, you need to extend the wires from the Split Air Solenoid plug over to the twin scroll solenoid.

Remember your ACV on the old n/a engine? It had two solenoids. They both had long electrical pigtails that were a foot long. You want to find the plug on the harness that the pigtails plugged into.

Memory says they both were up front close to the water filler neck area. The one for the Split Air Solenoid has a black/white wrie and a Blue wire with a Black stripe. All you do is get some 18-22 gauge wire and put two spade connectors on the end and plug them into that connector. Then the other ends of those two wires go to the jack/plug on the twin scroll solenoid.

The car/engine will run flawlessly without doing this except the turbo will spool up a tash later. It's worth doing when you have the time.

About your other post. Yes that is the charcoal canister.

And yes, the man's right. The BAC's two wires need to be extended to reach the right side of the engine. Not a big deal. It's all out in the open. Just cut the two bac wires three or so inches from it's connector. Splice in two new wires to reach the right side of the engine and then splice the cut off plug on the other end of the two new wires. Done.

Does your TPS plug reach. You might check that. Several people say it will. I did some repair work on that plug when doing the swap and can't remember if the original wires reach or not.

A lot depends if you bought a factory knock box or not. No knock box? Then don't worry about the wire from the knock sensor to the box. At least for now. I drove the good part of a year with no knock box and I'm really not sure I gained anything when I did install it.

NEVER use a turboii EM harness on a n/a car.

HAILERS

There is a thing called an Air bypass Solenoid. It is only used for 17 seconds during the cold start of an engine. I recommend not doing anything to restore it's function on a turbo engine.

BUT if you insist, the solenoid is located on the aft, left side of the engine on a n/a. On a turbo it's on top of the engine to the right of the intercooler and just aft of the BAC. Two wire circuit. Just extend the wires from the left of the engine to the top right. If you insist on doing that, let me know and I'll tell you the wire colors. It is a semi emissons related valve but will not play a part in a emissions test by your state.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

alright i need help ASAP.. i just finishing up my project, but it wont start, if i give it some gas down the TB it will start and keep running, then it will start beeping at me like a minute later, but it will not start on its own,.. what could this be?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Check fuel, then spark...

If you have fuel. Is it constant or shutting off after a bit?

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

im pretty sure it has fuel becasue it stays running, but i dont think its getting fuel when it is trying to start.. andi know it has spark, and obviously compression,, it will keep running as long as i have the gas pressed.. it just needs a jump to get going.. and it doesnt wanna stay idle either, but i did remove emissions and i know the stuff has to be tunned,, but i dont know how to do it properly lol..

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

Scratch that dumb me forgot to block off a nipple and it runs fine now.. thanks guys

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

another question.. umm i did search.. maby hailers you can help me again you seeem to know alot. and i was recommended from my friend to talk to you about it. i was told i should rewire my fuel pump when i install it i got the Walbro 255lhp fuel pump.. what do they mean by rewireing it.. ( where to i rewire to )

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Fuel pump rewiring is only needed on TII cars.

NA chassis's did not have the fuel thing. So we get lucky and don't have to rewire.

Although if thw wiring is bad that could be another reason to run new wires.

therotaryrocket

are you sure^^^?idk? so your upgrading from the orginal n/a fuel pump to a walbro 255lph? i thought I remember something about the rewire in this sites FAQ. and good thing you found your vacuum leak, I had one when I got my TII running for the first time, and it took me a while to figure out (i'm no master mechanic). so do you have any pics or documentation of the swap? ~peace~ just my $.02 cents

HAILERS

Personally I think just having the Waldo in there with stock wiring is good enough. Others will say no. It depends on how much boost YOU are going to boost to.

To find out if it's good enough, install a mechanical fuel pressure gauge and hang it on your windshield wipers. Then go boost for all it's got WITH the headlights on, a/c on, heater fan on, and see if the fuel pressure is adequate. From what I've seen, at 10 psi the pressure should be in the 48psi range when at 10 psi. Maybe a lb one way or the other.

Or put another way......... the fuel pressure should rise 1psi for each lb of boost. So if at zero boost if the pressure is 39psi then at 10lb of boost it should be close to 49psi.

Zero boost means no plus boost and no minus boost (vacuum). Zero or atmospheric pressure if you will.

OR put another way, the pressure you see on the fuel rail with the vacuum line taken off the boost sensor and plugged and the engine idling.......atmospheric pressure.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

^yup

The original post was most likely about the common Fuel Pump rewire which involves ditching an inline relay which changes the fuel pump voltage while cruising.

NA's did not have this.

I've run my walbro for 3 years daily driven on stock wiring.
If you see nasty corroded wires and ohm the wire out and find lots of resistance then you may want to consider running new power wires.

therotaryrocket

good explanation ^^, so I assume the turbo model had a lower voltage at cruise and jumped to a higher voltage when boost or a high engine load is needed, but once modified it wouldn't keep up with necessary fuel flow?

Anyhow, other than checking fuel pressure (which is a good suggestion imo hailers), couldn't you also watch your air/fuel ratio? probably best with a wide band oxygen sensor though (idk?). good luck.

HAILERS

I believe the *line* goes something like this: the alternator is marginal and the wiring and relays are marginal after fifteen years of use. When driving at night and racing with the headlights and a/c on, the volgtage available to the pump has been drawn down due to those other items being on.

The S4 tubo and the S5 n/a and turbo's have a fuel pump resistor relay. At little or no load, the pump recieves approx 9vdc, but when the ECU sees a Load, it removes a gnd signal to the Fuel Pump Resistor Relay and the unit now puts out what is available from the alternator/battery.

If the marginal alternator/battery already has a load on it like the a/c, headlights on, 50000watt amplifier a booming, it robs the fuel pump of full alternator power so it pumps less volume.

Something like that. Yeah. Go boost at full tilt with eveything turned on and look at the afr then do the same with no a/c, radio, heater fan etc and compare.

12akid

i did one on a friends 87, the n/a ecu works and n/a wiring works fine no cuting nothing drop in motor plug and play, and the drive shaft all i did was use a tii d/s and made holes on the n/a rear end were they connect to go with the tii drive shaft, bam tii, for 950 motor and tranE,100 fuel pump,100 for exhaust,150drive shaft, $1300

HAILERS

N/A ECU thinks 460 fuel injectors instead of the 550's on the engine.

N/A ECU does not control the twin scroll actuator.

N/A does not recognize boost pressure and does not retard the timing during boost....because it does not see boost pressure.

BAC does not work unless the two wires on the n/a harness are made to reach to the OTHER side of the engine.

NOT saying you can't just plug and play, just saying there's a little *house keepiing* that needs to be done. Like a turboii ECU and boost sensor/afm and a couple of minor (very minor) wiring changes.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

another quick question.. i kept the NA driveline for now.. but it is making wierd as noises.. i was thinking do i need to use a NA throw out bearing in the TII motor or is it the same.. * DUmbass me forgot to change it anyways.. got a brand new one and didnt even replace it.. ) so i think it might be the through out bearing making the tranny make noises.. its kinda like a loud vibrating noise.. ( it hard to explain.. )

HAILERS

I'm a little slow. You have the n/a transmission with the turbo engine?

Meaning you put the n/a flywheel on the turbo engine for that to work. Well, It could be the throwout bearing or the pilot bearing. I'm not big on figuring out which is which and what noise they make.

Either way, the transmission would have to come out to fix either, so it's a wash as to which is making the noise.

Is the clutch operable? Can you move the car? Drive it?

Memory says I read a site just last week, like MAYBE the Pinnapple site, that recommended using the turbo throw out bearing in either n/a or turbo because it was better. I'm NOT real sure where I read that.

tandolla

iTrader: (1)

yes i am able to drive the car.. the throw out bearing is the one in the block.. i know which one is wich and how to replace.. i havedone it before on my NA's .. but im thinking i might just put in the TII tranny.. and get the Drifeshaft from Mazdatrix * i think * that goes to the TII tranny to the NA diff.