Just installed the TII stuff from the flywheel back. Just wondering if i should source the cover on the bottom of the bell housing? The trans i have is missing that part.


Also my car wont start warm now since i did the swap. It used to start fine and everytime now it doesnt. I installed a brand new starter and the alternator is only a few weeks old. Could it be from sitting and me not driving it yet and get it really hot because i need to replace my tie rod(damn kids)?

 

are you using the same injectors as before? new? used? is the thermoswitch on the back of the waterpump hooked up? how's your compression?

what does a tie rod have to do with your car not starting?

 

compression should be fine the motor only has 30k on it and it was fine 500 miles before the swap. All i did was swap in the TII flywheel, trans, driveshaft and rear end. I didnt change anything other than that.


The car does start but i havent been able to get it out and beat on it a little bit because the the tie rod is bent.

 

Give your battery cables and terminals a good baking soda cleaning. After I let my car sit for a week doing my turbo swap, battery acid vapors had corroded the connections and made my charging system go to hell. You should also give the (+) connection at the main fuse a good cleaning. It can affect the amount of current the starter signal wire sees.

 

i will try that. I might also just cough up the $$$ for an optima battery too since ive always wanted one. The one i have now should be fine but better safe than sorry.

 

ok got the tie rod and drove the car a good 50 miles and beat on it a little bit but still doesnt want to start hot. Only thing i can think of would be i ended up running 100% distilled water instead of antifreeze because i had a coolant hose go about 25 miles before the trans. Could this make problems?

 

Why would the coolent affect hot-start?

lol n/a with tii driveline, worth 300hp

 

from what ive read water and antifreeze have different boil points and of course different freeze points. The difference in the temperature between the two could be confusing the coolant temp sensor.


I have the TII driveline because this fall the car will be getting a TII engine not because i wanted to gain HP or do "mad tyte doriftos". I already have it and have it torn down just waiting until summer when i start making more $$$ to rebuild and port it and get all the other stuff like a standalone and things like that.

 

The freezing and boiling points are only important if it's really cold outside or really hot, at which point the water could freeze or boil. The amount of heat thrown into the water is going to be the same, which means your overall engine temps will be nearly the same as well.

When you say it doesn't start, does that mean the starter doesn't spin or spins slowly? Or do you mean it cranks, but never catches? If it's the second one, it's flooding, which is all to common with the stock rich start maps.

 

Starter spins at a decent speed and is brand new. It acts like it wants to start every now and then but doesnt. Before i did the trans swap it would start everytime. Now if i need to shut the car off and come back to it even within 5 mins it has to be pop started.

 

try cleaning your plugs mate, or setup a relay to kill the fuel pump before you shut down so it'll start easier

 

If its a rebuilt starter it could be prone to heat soak. I think the car is flooding though.

 

i almost for got to mention that when i go to start the car sometimes when i turn the key the starter clicks and then after a few clicks will spin the motor over again. I probably will install a cut off switch anyways gettin out to pull a fuse is a bitch especially when it is moderately cold with 50mph winds. I will also check the plugs but they are fairly new and NGK platinums

 

plugs were good but installed a new set of NGK platinums for good measure. Problem is still there. Just as soon as you shut the car off you might as well forget it unless you have somewhere to pop start it because it will not start back up.

I also read on here that if you rev to 4000rpm and then turn off the key with the pedal to the floor it shouldnt flood. Tried it and still wont start back up

 

no ideas before i try running a kill switch?

 

ran the kill switch and now starts everytime. I do know that the problem is the battery is old and shitty. along with filthy injectors

 

well back to the drawing board. i think the rebuilt starter i got is **** because it doesnt spin fast enough to start the car. it sounds like the battery is dead and i know it isnt because i just bought it and charged it and its an optima red top.car still starts when its cooled down though but barely