cezonetheillest

so the search isn't working right now and i just had the resior blow up in my face last night. soooooo im just looking to get this done so it will quit overheating since now i look like a migrant worker. lol


so i replace the thermostat, the water pump and the lower and upper hose and also i replace the heater hose that is attached to the block and the firewall. the car will do fine as long as im not driving. when i start to drive it it sits at about 200 on the freeway and then when i get somewhere it will get to about 220. i don't know what else it could be. it was running fine for for the past week and then all of a sudden it starts to do this. any ideas. i also flushed the cooling system also till it came out crystal clear.

thanks for any help.

my car cooling right would help the second degree burns that i recieve while i was working on this.

cezonetheillest

so no one has any ideas??????????/

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

How are you getting those temps? Aftermarket gauge or stock in the dash?
Did you replace the thermostat with a Mazda OE or an aftermarket unit?
The waterpump, was that a mazda or aftermarket..new or remanufactured or used?
-a

cezonetheillest

the temps came off of an aftermarket gauge. i went to mazda to get an oem but theye said if would be a few weeks before they could get me one. i got a aftermarket waterpump. never had any problems with the wp before..

13b4me

The aftermarket gauge is far more reliable than you stock one would be anyways. It's well known that the stock gauge goes from "warm" to "blown engine" with no buffer in between. lol

Are you running the stock undertray? Have you burped the cooling system?

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

Like asked, what kind of thermostat? If it's not an OEM Mazda one change it. I'd do like Alex said and re-burp the system also. Make sure the heater is on when doing it.

cezonetheillest

lol this is so true.


ive haven't ran the undertray in years and ive never had any issues before. as far as burping the system i think that i am doing it right. the weird thing is that after i fill with coolant and then start the car with the cap off until all the bubbles are gone it sits at like 150 at the most but then when i start to drive it that is when it heats up and doesn't come back down.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

When I put my undertray back on my temps went down. I still want to know what thermostat you're using.

13b4me

Sounds like you need the undertray to me. It's the main piece to the cooling system puzzle that everyone seems to overlook, but it's very integral.

cezonetheillest

oh i bought the t-stat from napa autoparts. hmmm ill look for the undertray if i still have it. or ill have to make one.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

If it's not a Mazda tstat change it. Problem solved most likely.

cezonetheillest

ok well i got a buddy of mine bringing me one over tonight so ill try that out. thanks.

cezonetheillest

alright so i got a oem tstat in my car and its still doing the same thing.????? any ideas.

cezonetheillest

alright so if it was a bad coolant seal wouldn't i blow up the radiator or the caps or something????

RevinRx7

iTrader: (3)

Is there oil in your radiator?

White smoke out the back of your car?

Did you burp it when the cars thermostat was OPEN? (*** in fully warmed up and allowing coolant to flow through it)

After you do, take it for a little spin then burp it again, some bubbles always manage to get stuck.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Just an FYI from my experience...the OE t-stat is a 180 deg unit, while every aftermarket t-stat (napa, auto zone, pep boys) that I have seen in my years of owning these cars has been a 190 deg unit. So, for this, and all the other reasons, its good to stay away from them.

If your running one of those 190 deg units, then 200 would not be too far off. 220 is a diferent story.
-a

cezonetheillest

nope no oil in the rad or white smoke out the exhaust. we burped it cold and then turned it on with the cap off and then burped it again.

so i noticed today while driving it, it would push coolant to my resiviour and then my add coolant light would come on. so i looked at my temp gauge and i noticed that the temps were coming down fairly quickly. so any thoughts on it????? its a weird one for me. lol

cezonetheillest

alright so update on this one. i just got a new belt and new radiator cap just reburped and im going to go to see what it does now.

cezonetheillest

alright so the temps are down and all that good stuff but now when i am just driving around town the add coolant light comes on and then the temp gauge just starts to go down. then if i rev it to 2 grand then the add coolant light goes off. any ideas on this one????

Wankel7

Are you running a stock fan or an electric fan?

Just basics...you checked the front of the radiator...there isn't a plastic bag on it. How is the oil cooler looking?

James

cezonetheillest

im running an efan and i just had the radiator out and it looked fine nothing on it. the oil cooler is alright also.

13b4me

What e-fan are you running? Is the plastic spacer on the thermostat housing cracked?

cezonetheillest

the efan is one that i pulled off of a 90 tbird that was supercharged. the only issue that i am having now is just that it seems to still be putting coolant in my overflow. would that just still be a bubble???

13b4me

If you're not actually "losing" coolant, then it has to be a bubble in the system.