I've concluded that the clutch kit I received wasn't the N/A one that I ordered but was a TII clutch kit.
The pressure plate had a different bolt pattern and the clutch was just marginally larger.
I replaced the bearings and we went ahead and used the clutch because it seemed to fit and not rub the pressure plate I already had.
At the time the mechanic I was working with said that there "shouldn't" be any problems (he was a mechanic in the army for 10 years and has been a civilian mechanic for twenty years now) so I said okay.
Once we dropped the engine in and everything the clutch pedal was fully depressed.
After that it lifted back up and felt fine.
I was told I didn't need to bleed the clutch.
I can't select any gears now with the engine on.
If the engine is off I can select gears.
If I start the car with it in a gear it jerks forward/backward and doesn't really want to pull; like the clutch isn't fully disengaging.
Tmrw I'm planning on dropping the tranny and assuming that either the shift fork is bent, the clutch was put in wrong, or the pilot bearing/throw out bearing are malfunctioning, etc.
Now, is it possible that the clutch isn't fully disengaging because of air in the lines or the master/slave cylinder being faulty (both were replaced 5,000 miles ago).

I searched this and it is the only reason I know of all the possibilities of what COULD be causing the problem.
I know... I made another thread, but problems keep coming up and I'm close to getting full coverage and letting this Midwest flood take her down the river.

Thanks in advance for any help; I'll try to bleed the master/slave cylinder first.
Possibly the brakes as well since I just put a new master brake cylinder on and I was told that they both share the same resivour?

 

A TII clutch has a 1" x 23-spline, while a NA clutch has a 1" x 22-spline. One will not fit the other's transmission.

 

The Flywheel sizes are different(215 and 255mm).Clutches are different size,the slaves are different,the Starter gearing is different.(and located roughly in a different place.Solenoid is upside down.
If you are gonna run a TII setup on an N.A You would need the TII transmission,TII Flywheel,clutch,starter,clutch slave.
then in order to get it to mate with the N/A Differential you would need to get a Driveshaft made or Bought that has a TII input shaft and a N/A rear diff flange.(or change the whole Rear diff and half shafts to TII also and use a TII driveshaft and mate all those TII parts together.
OH,the Slave cylinders sit different on the transmission too.The N/A slave sits further up,compared to the TII which sits closer to the engine,IF used on a N/A Trans...so If the TII slave is used on an N/A trans it will not fully engage the clutch.( according to memory or it is the total opposite)!
I hope that info helps ya.
..dig into the Search function and Look up TII drivetrain swap in an N?A,it may explain anything I may have missed!
Cheers and let us know how it goes..pm me if needed.
The brakes have a separate reservoir than the clutch..BUT use the same type hydraulic fluid.Like DOT 3.

 

Yes the clutch and the brakes run separate lines. As everyone has stated tii and n.a's have different spline count. which pressure plate are you running on the motor?
can you play with the slave cylinder and move the fork or no? If you cannot then switch back pressure plate to the stock one, sometimes there is too much material on the pressure plate (surface of the pp) and it sits on the fork just enough to drive but slip.

 

so basically, what it sounds like is that t2 clutch won't work at all unless you run a t2 tranny, t2 slave, etc and all that. sell the t2 clutch, get an na clutch, done. unless you want to upgrade to the t2 tranny and rear end (or get the t2>na driveshaft) to get away from the na tranny "glass" synchros and ability to handle hardly any torque over stock levels.

 

the things some people do...

why on earth would you go through the hassle of installing the wrong clutch. now you have to pull it all back out, put the correct one in, and reinstall everything again.

good job.

 

I dropped the transmission in the middle of this huge flood we are having and I'll post some pictures of the damage to the clutch.
It doesn't look that bad, except for the heat damage from where we were revving it trying to break something lose(stupid idea).
The four nuts?bolts? look like they were being grounded off; other than that there really isn't physical damage other than the heat.
Is the TII throwout bearing different than the N/A?
I'm sure the answer is yes, but my assistant is as gung-ho as I am and says we can just toss the stock n/a clutch back on and use the new throwout bearing.....
Would this still work?
I lost my job and am way past my budget on this.

 

I know, Please post this in the lounge under noob of the week; subconsciously this is why I did it.
But no, we were pissed at all the things that were going wrong and really just eyeballed it and said, "should work."
Dumb Idea, I'm inexperienced.
Other guy isn't and should have said, "No... we need the right clutch."

 

Well I that will definetly not fall under waranty or exchange anymore : P

The T.O bearing is the same (TII or N/A) for S5 only. S4 are different.

 

Yeah, I ordered it a long time ago. I was working 60hrs a week at a slaughter house and didn't have time for the swap... Laid off is F-U-N!
I didn't figure they'd take it back anyway.
Thanks for the information about the throwout bearing; I was worried about it.
Mine is a s5.
Hopefully this weekend I'll get it swapped out and running again.