ABCDEfb

Setup:
JDM Spec S5 TII (89) into 87 N/A Chassis
Wiring harness: 87 TII
ECU : 10 minutes ago 332.... now 326 ( I think I burned 332)

How, just how, do I get the temp gauge to work? I did countless searches (3 hours worth) and moved pins on the harness connector (probably what burned 332) to try and make it work and nothing made the guage move. I am convinced I did it all wrong. Please help, this project has gone on for months and this is the laast thing between me and the road. (please don't say aftermarket guage as I am broke as hell, I'll get one later) Thanks!

arghx

iTrader: (3)

i can't believe you possibly killed an ECU in order to get a practically worthless gauge working. aftermarket is like $50 or something

ABCDEfb

Broke! When I say broke I mean running in the negatives. That "worthless" gauge will at least let me know if the engine should be turned off immediately because it's hot. In spanish their is a saying that says "worse is nothing". So having atleast that gauge temporarily is better than nothing.

danegerous

iTrader: (10)

That engine shouldn't even be running unless you converted it to s4 components.

The s4 wiring harness won't mate up to the s5 ecu, and unless you converted the engine to s4 or have a standalone (from what I read you don't) and you shouldn't be running an s5 engine with an s4 ecu.

Start with checking all that...things aren't going to work properly if they weren't meant for each other.

ABCDEfb

I didn't ask for all that.Did I say I was having a problem somewhere else. No. I know that out of series swaps are hassles, but I did it. Yes I had to do some wiring here and there but nothing extreme. The car runs fine, purrs like a kitten (with heartburn), but since I also put an FMIC I wanted to know what effect it did to engine cooling. The only thing I changed on the engine where the injectors. High imp to low imp. Now the S4 na sender wiring at the harness is different than the s4 TII harness. I would like to know how? Thats all.


ps. I also changed to an s4 throttle body. Car shoudn't be running...sheesh!

RETed

Water temp guage has nothing to do with the ECU.


-Ted

ABCDEfb

Can you elaborate?

danegerous

iTrader: (10)

the gauges can work without the ecu even being plugged in (some of them) for example fuel level and the buzzer for low coolant will even go off with no ecu. could be your gauge is bad, or the needle is loose. Test it out, pull out the cluster and check to see if the gauge will even function.

ABCDEfb

Ok,let me explain better. On the x15 connector I have a wire coming in where (YB) comes in for turbo harness. The harness in the car does not have (YW) there to correspond. I assume this is the temp sender wire. Am I wrong? If I am right which wire corresponds to (YB)?

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

as far as wiring I have no idea, but I would check your sensor to make sure it works. mine broke randomly, one day it worked, the next day nothing at all. I replaced the sensor and it works like brand new again.

micah

I thought RETed was pretty clear... Elaborate? Its either the sender or the gauge... pick one.. replace it... if that didn't fix it.. replace the other one..

If you fried your ECU, you were in the wrong area... doing the wrong thing... WTF. You probably need to spend more time reading the FSM and less time moving wires around on the ECU.

ABCDEfb

OK. The ECU wasn't fried. What the **** is so hard to understand about the wire from the sender has nowhere to go? It stops at the orange harness that goes in the car. You got information, give it, but don't come with that WTF bullshit! Not everyone is a savvy as you.

RETed

It's a single wire lead going to a thermistor sensor.

Yes, the wire does run with the main engine harness, but it doesn't go into the stock ECU.
The wire does go to the crossover harness over the dash.

Y/B or Y/W - there's only one yellow wire in that whole mess.


-Ted

ABCDEfb

Thanks, I figure it all out tomorrow, I seen a yellow wire on the x16 connector or do you think the corresponding is on the x15 connector like the one coming in from the engine bay is. Regardless, I'll figure it out, thanks everyone.

RETed

Sorry, "X15" and "X16" don't mean anything to me.
HAILERS does too good of a job to bother memorizing anything electrical.

There is only one yellow wire in that crossover harness.
I'm pretty sure there is only one yellow wire in the main engine harness too.
Just splice them together, and you should see water temp at the gauge.


-Ted

ABCDEfb

Thanks... just think of x15 and x16 as secret weapons that make my car faster than most.(j/k) I will try again tomorrow especially now that I know a cracked wire in my harness was what made me think I messed my ECU up.

micah

I never claimed to be savvy..... but I usually always check the FSM before posting a question. Most of what you are talking is common sense. If you don't understand the system, why would you go poking around in a wiring harness? I digress... I think you have it mostly ironed out. good job.

ABCDEfb

When I look at wiring diagrams in the FSM it looks like Greek to me.I can't figure it out for some reason. I'm just no good at it, but that will not stop me from working on my car, even if I make a few errors(be they large or small). So when I look at the Greek in the FSM, I come here to ask for a translation.

RodRx

Still no luck with the temp sensor? Your having about as much fun finding that as I am the o2 sensor wire. Hey I'll do some checking but I think I have a spare water temp gauge here at the house(Aftermarket). I am not sure but I'll look. You know me my back yard is a plethora of car parts new and old.

ABCDEfb

THE CONCLUSION:

This is so that those who do a search on this may find an answer. If you are swapping a TII engine into an S4, the yellow/red temp gauge sender wire coming into the car will stop at the orange connector in the car. Now look at the other orange connector thats in the same general area. On that other harness connector, coming from the car will be a yellow/black wire, remove it from that harness and put it in the harness in the position that corresponds with the yellow/red wire. Done.

For all those involved, problem solved, and the temps seem to be fine, swap complete.