throttle body mod.
#1
fireball
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throttle body mod.
i finished the throttle body mod on my s4 and i can't quite figure out for sure the location of the TPS. i used the guide on FC3S pro and it only shows the s5 TPS installed. is this the same as s4?
#5
Knucklehead
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Unlike the guy that posted above me who probably never even tried this, and is just repeating info he reads, I have done this. Don't listen to him. Only thing it affects (from what I experienced) is idle.
I'm sure you figured out your tps by now, just letting you know not to worry about nay Sayers
I'm sure you figured out your tps by now, just letting you know not to worry about nay Sayers
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#9
I have a rotary addiction
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Unlike the guy that posted above me who probably never even tried this, and is just repeating info he reads, I have done this. Don't listen to him. Only thing it affects (from what I experienced) is idle.
I'm sure you figured out your tps by now, just letting you know not to worry about nay Sayers
I'm sure you figured out your tps by now, just letting you know not to worry about nay Sayers
from a rolling chasis. ANYway...
When you remove the thermo wax pellet it totally screws up your cars reliability. Unless you let your car sit and idle for 5 minutes to warm up before you drive it. I like to start my car, wait 20 seconds and GO. If you removed the butterflies and thermo wax your idle will be messed up until the thermostat opens up basically.
Say you start the car. Wait 20-30 seconds while buckling your seat belt (which you should do, but hey who am I to judge the ignorant?) and finding your favorite track on your CD. You start out the driveway and come to the stop sign at the end of the road. You hit your brakes and pull the clutch out. UH OH! Your car just stalled out! Pretty embarassing having to restart your car at every stop until the engine warms up huh?
BTW the "TB mod" is not part of the emissions system. Removing emissions and opening up your intake and exhaust will only make your idle better! You just have to bump the idle up a hair. I suppose it changes the idles mixture to remove the solenoids and all that garbage. It will drop it down to maybe 600 RPM. Bump it back to 750-800 RPM and it's like it was meant to be!
#10
I have a rotary addiction
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The butterflies also control the velocity of the air flowing through the TB into the dynamic chamber. Removing them will cause a different flow. I noticed my car felt slower when I tried this on a spare TB a couple years ago. The car idled at 1000 RPM or it would die when you tried to start it.
#11
In search of turbo...
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The butterflies also control the velocity of the air flowing through the TB into the dynamic chamber. Removing them will cause a different flow. I noticed my car felt slower when I tried this on a spare TB a couple years ago. The car idled at 1000 RPM or it would die when you tried to start it.
But the driveability has not suffered at all, idles at 700-800. the only difference I have noticed is that my throttle response at 4000 and above is "sharper" or much more responsive. After getting use to that I felt the car was much funner to drive, didn't feel any faster, but just like I said, better throttle response.
-Pat
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
After i removed my butterflies my idle wasnt too great either but i just got a tune recently and now its just fine.
Removing the butterfly's does allow for a better throttle response.
Removing the butterfly's does allow for a better throttle response.
#13
suck me beautiful
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wow, I have seen some people dreading the TB mod, never looked into what it was...
you guys are dumb for removing that stuff, **** hollow out your cats, get a downpipe if you want more 'power' don't remove your idle stuff...
next people are gonna remove the alternator for weight savings, then bitch the car wont charge.. DUH
if you want power, do like me, supercharge it... or turbo, or bigger turbo ??? i dunno pick one...
you guys are dumb for removing that stuff, **** hollow out your cats, get a downpipe if you want more 'power' don't remove your idle stuff...
next people are gonna remove the alternator for weight savings, then bitch the car wont charge.. DUH
if you want power, do like me, supercharge it... or turbo, or bigger turbo ??? i dunno pick one...
#14
Rallye RX7
iTrader: (11)
ugh, just read this:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...e+body+airflow
my car ran 10 times better after doing this mod because my coolant switch was failing and causing the plates to stick.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...e+body+airflow
my car ran 10 times better after doing this mod because my coolant switch was failing and causing the plates to stick.
#15
Former FC enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Yeah my plates were sticking too, definitely the WORST problem to ever try to troubleshoot considering I just put a TII intake setup on the engine. It was the last thing I'd ever think of. The mod really is no big deal...I removed it, I have to hold the gas for 30 seconds on cold startup now but it drives fine when cold.
#16
1308ccs of awesome
iTrader: (9)
ugh... why does everyone complain that the TB mod makes your car stall, of course it will, if your mad about that, then suck it up because you're dumb and didn't research it enough before you did it.
you can easily do the mod without removing the themrowax. also, the thermowax has nothing to do with reliability NCross, you might be talking about the one on the eccentric shaft (also called thermowax) but no one else even mentioned that...
bottom line is don't remove it if you don't want to have to keep your car alive yourself (which is pretty simple if you can heal toe it...) or have something else that can control your idle (like a megasquirt using the BAC valve)
My TII has nothing left on the throttle body and idles like silk at 800 even when my efan comes on using my megasquirt.
you can easily do the mod without removing the themrowax. also, the thermowax has nothing to do with reliability NCross, you might be talking about the one on the eccentric shaft (also called thermowax) but no one else even mentioned that...
bottom line is don't remove it if you don't want to have to keep your car alive yourself (which is pretty simple if you can heal toe it...) or have something else that can control your idle (like a megasquirt using the BAC valve)
My TII has nothing left on the throttle body and idles like silk at 800 even when my efan comes on using my megasquirt.
#18
I have a rotary addiction
iTrader: (18)
I'm just stating that in every write up it suggests you remove the thermo wax. This IS a relibility issue because your car ******* stalls out and won't hold idle until warmed up all the way. Unless your idle is set over 1000 RPM.
After your car warms up all the way you can idle it at 700 RPM. You will just have a problem keeping it alive with with a low idle when the engine is cold.
Anywho, this guys thread has been jacked enough already. I'm out.
BTW. I'm talking stock. No Megasquirt etc.
After your car warms up all the way you can idle it at 700 RPM. You will just have a problem keeping it alive with with a low idle when the engine is cold.
Anywho, this guys thread has been jacked enough already. I'm out.
BTW. I'm talking stock. No Megasquirt etc.
#20
Rallye RX7
iTrader: (11)
I'm just stating that in every write up it suggests you remove the thermo wax. This IS a relibility issue because your car ******* stalls out and won't hold idle until warmed up all the way. Unless your idle is set over 1000 RPM.
After your car warms up all the way you can idle it at 700 RPM. You will just have a problem keeping it alive with with a low idle when the engine is cold.
Anywho, this guys thread has been jacked enough already. I'm out.
BTW. I'm talking stock. No Megasquirt etc.
After your car warms up all the way you can idle it at 700 RPM. You will just have a problem keeping it alive with with a low idle when the engine is cold.
Anywho, this guys thread has been jacked enough already. I'm out.
BTW. I'm talking stock. No Megasquirt etc.