I came across this product in a magazine I was flipping through the other day. It is supposed to decrease the amount of parasitic drag caused from the A/C system. It also coats the inside of the A/C system with a lube to keep things running smoothly.

www.buddyclub.us

I've been toying with the idea of keeping my A/C (and fixing it) for awhile now. It gets pretty damn hot in the summer with a black car. The additive is also supposed to quicken the time in which the A/C cools the air from start.

I just thought I would share this product with the other 7 owners who still have A/C or plan of fixing theirs.

Mason

*edit* The site seems to be down right now or maybe it is just my computer. Sorry!

 

Link works, but what product are you talking about???... I didn't see it anywhere there.

 

AC is for PANSIES.....

 

The parasitic drag of an A/C system not running is basically zero - the A/C clutch is very free spinning. All you really have is belt drag, and if you want that last 0.1hp, you can take the belt off.

I also fail to see the product you're talking about...

-=Russ=-

 

Me too...

 

I'm sorry. For some reason the page just comes up blank to me still.

It is called Comp Treatment and Super Comp Treatment. If I ever get access to this site I will be sure to link it directly.

The magizine I was reading about this product dyno tested it with a Mazda 6. They ran the car on the dyno with blower on full and A/C on cold. After 6,000rpms the power dropped off substantually with the A/C on. After using this product they regained ~12hp after 6,000rpms. At certain lower rpms they gained a little over 1hp with the A/C on.

I'm not sure how our A/C system works but it cuts off at WOT right? The main use I would use this product for is to keep the A/C system well lubed and running smooth. It is also supposed to quiet down the A/C system and cool the air faster.

If you use this, I wouldn't expect any super power gains but this product will help regain some lost power and keep the A/C system running smooth.

 

Not at all on S4 models and probably not (although I do not know for sure) on S5 models.

 

They do not turn off on any of the FC's - on FD's they do.

Why not just TURN OFF the AC when you need the power?


-Ted

 

I think Mazda was on the right track with the 7 second cut-out at WOT.

My only wish is that the the 7 seconds would start as you let off WOT.

 

Yeah I always manage to ACCIDENTALLY time it perfect to stall the car.

Let off WOT at 7500rpms, slowly engine brake to 2500 rpms, press in clutch (and the A/C clutch kicks in right then), and then the car stalls because the RPMS drop too fast under A/C load for the Dashpot to compensate.

Probably could use some adjustment of the BAC to fix that.

 

It sounds like a product I've seen in the past called Snake Oil.

 

I just wanted to get this product out there for seven owners who still have their A/C. It sounds like a good product for an older car such as the FC who's A/C maybe is starting to cause problems or just for the added protection.



The website is finally working for me. They don't seem to have any links or a more detailed discription of what it does. There is contact information for anyone who wants to order some.

Since there isn't a detailed description I will take some of the info outta this magazine.

Installation is simple. You attach the hose that Buddy Club provides to the low end of the A/C system and another on the high side of the A/C system. For best results use both the "Racing Spec Comp Treatment" and the "Racing Spec Super Comp Treatment." Then simply open the valves and let the pressure differences between the system and the can do the rest.

The "Racing Spec Comp Treatment" contains the fluorine lubricant.
The "Racing Spec Super Comp Treatment" contains microscopic ceramic particles that aid in reducing the metal-to-metal friction in the system.

It is recommended that you use both.

 

coming from a guy who lives in an igloo

 

The system is already loaded with the correct weight of oils for the amount and type of refrigerant. Since it is sealed system, this oil is not consumed during normal operation. As long as everything is how it should be, then no additional lubrication or snake oil products are needed.

Besides, why would you have the A/C on at the track (the only time that a few HP matters) anyway?

 

Hey has anyone here used the exhaust? How does it sound?

 

Hope in a bottle...

If you have a mechanical problem in your A/C system, fix it.

If your A/C is working correctly and has the corrrect type and quantity of oil and refrigerant, it doesn't need anything else in it. If it does not have the correct type and quantity of oil and refrigerant in it, your compressor will quickly destroy itself, making a large job out of a small one.

A/C is worth doing right the first time.

BTW, not trying to hijack the thread, but if you look at a temp/pressure charts and compare R134A to R12, you will see that at high temps R134A has much higher pressures. At higher rpms, the pumping HP required is much greater. A very good reason not to convert a rotary to 134A.

I have tried R134A in my RX7 and the power loss was very noticable at rpm above 4000. Same story in my 92 GSR. Got my certificate to buy R12 and never looked back.

And don't bother with the hydrocarbon refrigerants on the market. I have experimented extensively with them on more than one vehicle and yes, they do work, and yes they do use less HP, but at the cost of much lower system capacity.

In other words, they work just fine until you really need them, then they just don't have the ability to really move enough heat.

 

I think that jackhild59 said all, except that microfine ceramic is not a lubricant. Over a period of time, it may actually sand off the end of the rotary vanes or gaul the seal housing inside the compressor. The oils that are used for your a/c are specically designed for use in these systems.

 

Your memory must be slipping...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/s4-tps-358898/ (scroll down to posts #7 and #8)

I'll soon be adding a cheap and simple electronic DIY kit to my car to switch off the A/C based on the load signal from the AFM. It'll keep it switched off until about five seconds after the load drops back below the adjustable set-point.

As for the "Buddy Club Comp treatment", a little Googling found this impressive sounding description.

"Created by the latest lubrication molecular processing technology, the Buddy Club Racing Spec Super Comp Treatment R-134A utilizes ceramic-type particles to create a bond. As a result, making a smooth surface on the metallic parts inside of the air conditioner compressor to reduce overall operating friction and improve engine performance! The micro ceramic particles attach to the metallic internal parts of the air conditioner compressor to create a smooth operating surface, thus substantially reducing operating resistance."

As an HVAC engineer this sounds like a bit of a con to me. Anything that increases system efficiency that easily would already be in use in the A/C industry. And even if this does reduce compressor friction (and I doubt it does), for most modern cars (including S5's) it's only going to be an advantage at low load because at high load the A/C gets turned off. You won't see any power gains, but you might see reduction in average fuel consumption if you use the A/C often. I imaging the fuel savings would take ages to pay off the purchase price. Plus you can't just throw this stuff into any FC, you have to have the system converted to run R134a.