This upcoming Wednesday I'm calling Ray @ Malloy and purchasing a reman motor. Unfortunately, I do not have time nor space to pull and reinstall motor myself so I'm taking it to a local shop.

Originally I wanted to upgrade as many things as I could while the motor was out. But since I'am about to purchase my first home, I have to budget accordingly (not pinching pennies - but I have to have some contraints on big time upgrades)

My question is this, eventually I want to have a decent single turbo (thinking GT40R) w/ vmount setup. For the time being I will be getting a reman motor and utilizing unmodifed stock twins. What are the things you would do while the car is in this stage?

I will definitely have the rats nest taken out and going non-sequential.

I'am very interested in having the UIM and LIM ported, getting the Rotaryworks throttlebody, Greddy elbow, lightweight pulleys, buying a new engine harness, fuel pulsation dampener, Supra TT fuel pump, new starter, new alternator, upgraded rad. and intercooler and I seen something about upgraded water pumps??? and maybe pulling all A/C...

Currently the car has no cats full 3in exhaust, PowerFC and Commander, upgraded clutch and short shifter, A/F and Oil Temp gauges. Goals for the car would be weekend driver, back roads and highway pulls, very seldom sanctioned track use.

Any input would be greatly appreciated! I just want to get this thing back on the road with as few problems as possible before I buy a house!!

 

I'd Fire that Rotary works throttle body into a lake...they are prone to boost leak.
Look into www.risingrpm.com .
They have an adapter that you can put on the FD Intake and run pretty well whatever TB you want..like 80 or 90mm single butterfly.You can then run a Tps that will suit your setup.

get a Wideband O2 sensor..you'll need it.

Other than that,I think you are on the right page.

 

Ok thanks for the info misterstyx69, I will definitely check out the RPMRising adapter and get a wideband o2.

Can anyone elaborate on an upgraded? waterpump?? I can't seem to find the thread where it was mentioned anymore.

Is there anything anyone can think of that I could be missing? Or I should be doing in unison with said upcoming mods?

I know there seems to be a ying and yang with all cars, but especially with these. With the rats nest being deleted and having the U+LIM's ported cause a problem elsewhere?

Should I have my stock injectors sent off to be cleaned? Will they be sufficient with the boost turned up a little on the (soon to be) non-seq turbos? - keep in mind I will most likely have the fuel setup overhauled when I get around to that GT40R, but I want to stay safe and don't want to push any of the systems past their threshold...

Any input is appreciated!

 

*Forget the light-weight pulleys. IMO keep the stock size pulleys and get a idler pulley to take the place of the airpump one. This will keep good, sufficient belt contact on the waterpump.
*New pulsation dampner is good, or delete it per Banzai's instructions on his website. If you're going single, you 'll end up replacing the stock fuel rails and adding add larger injectors along with higher capacity pump (no experience here) and need a fuel pressure regulator. With that you won't need a dampner anyway.
*Port the wastegate on the stock twins to avoid creep with the open exhaust while you wait for funds on the single.
*Personally I'd carefully pull the oil pan, clean it thoroughly and re-seal it with a gasket maker like THE RIGHT STUFF along with an oil pan brace...Banzai also sells those.
*Up-grade motor mounts from stock. At least one is probably shot anyway if you still have them.
*New clutch fork if it looks original...they've been known to fatique and break with age and stiffer pressure plates.
*New throw-out bearing, pilot bearing (Not sure if the remain comes with one).
*Re-surface the pressure plate
*Double-check tension both torque specs per the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL.
*If you staying close to stock boost with the twins, the stock heat ranges for plugs are fine. Otherwise I'd go with cooler plugs...9's leading and trailing. Have the coils bench tested, new coil harness and new plug wires.
*Properly delete the double-throttle and Accelerated Warm Up systems.
*Purchase an Efini 'Y' Pipe to replace the failure prone coupler to cross-over if it hasn't been done yet. It flows better and essential for higher boost.
*New engine harnesses are VERY expensive. IMO, carefully remove all of the crusty brittle insulation, delete those wires you won't need, add new fuel injector pig-tails and re-wrap using silicone fusion 'tape', friction tape and loom cover. You can do a continuity check before re-installing.

Doing the work yourself, and off the top of my head...you can do all of that for < $600

 

Thanks for the great replys thus far! I have changed the list accordingly with these things taken into account.

Can anyone shed some light on the OMP delete? I understand that you are required to premix every fill up, but why do people delete it? Is it prone to failure? Or is it just another reliability mod? I noticed in my search that it seems to fail early on and can cause problems - but was unsure if many ppl do this and if I heard was conclusive enough to follow.

Also, with many emissions and other things being deleted during the install, should I modify the harness as well? So I don't have a bunch of unused plugs and extra wire hanging all over the engine bay? Or is that a serious undertaking to be deleting these things from the OEM harness??

Lastly, the wax thermopellet... what/where is this and why replace it?

 

Owners delete the stock OMP because it injects crankcase oil into the combustion chamber. That oil will have some contaminants and isn't designed to burn as cleanly as 2 cycle oil...which is specifically made to burn. You have choices here...
*Continue the run the stock OMP as-is. They don't go bad THAT often and if you change oil at closer intervals as you should anyway, it mitigates the contaminants.
*delete OMP, install a block-off plate and pre-mix ~ 1 oz. @ gallon...and NEVER forget.
*There are kits available to run the stock OMP but source it's oil from a reservoir containing 2 cycle oil rather than the crankcase. There's cost, labor and usually packaging issues trying to find a place for the reservoir in this choice but it has obvious advantages.
*Install an AI system, then run both the stock OMP as designed AND pre-mix at a reduced rate. You have some cost and labor with the install, but the AI keeps carbon down and you get improved lubrication at all times, including during periods of decel (when injector duty is zero). AI also has other benefits of cooling and knock control.

This site is for FC owners, but explains the thermopellet downside and why it should be replaced. There are a couple of sources for a simple plug that replaces it on the FD. I got mine for free after ordering an engine stand adaptor. Just slips in in-place of the thermopellet, no shimming required. FC3S Pro v2.0:&nbsp HOW-TO - Oil Thermo Bypass Pellet Shim Procedure
You should already have a copy of the Factory Service Manual...it will have information on where it is, and how to remove and replace it.

And yes, IMO if your deleting emissions and installing block-off plates, you should delete the connectors and ideally, delete the associated wiring.

This might help for reference (not my picture):

 

Great. Thanks for the informative reply!

What my shop is suggesting is that I go with a Haltech ECU and harness w/ LS ignition coils, considering my future plans (GT40R.)

I currently have stock ignition ( Note: I already bought the HKS Twin Power unit, but I still need the plug-in harness for it ) and the Apexi PFC and Commander. I know this unit is a little outdated but I would imagine it would be fine with my application, it is also already purchased and installed. I was planning on buying a brand new OEM harness to hopefully solve any future electrical gremlins.

For now, I still plan to utilize my stock turbos. The wastegate will be ported and they will be fully non-sequential!

I have very limited ECU knowledge and ignition pros vs cons. The current Apexi unit was already operating in the car when I bought it. I have been trying to do as much research as I could during my free time.

I now know firsthand what a slippery slope it is for how fast I want to go, how reliable I want it to be, and how much money I have to spend.

 

Slippery slope indeed.