Thinking of painting my car with industrial paint
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Thinking of painting my car with industrial paint
My 1988 t2 has just recieved a new fender, and door, and i will be repairing the rear quarter, and sanding the whole thing down somtime this week.
So...
All My friends are 4x4 guys, and i went over to a friend of mines house last night who was painting his 85 4runner with Safety Blue Industrial paint that you can buy from your hardware store for $22 a gallon. Let me tell you, his truck looked great. He only used about 1/4 gallon, and he has a fairly thick coat on. So im thinking it's too good to be true, so i ride with him over to a friend of his house that has another 4runner that he also painted with the industrial paint, and it has been on for over a year, and it still looked perfect.
If you are wondering what kind of pain this is, it is the paint they use for bulldozers, steamrollers, and handrails and such in industrial buildings.
Im thinking of painting my car safety blue,which is somwhat like a north carolina or baby blue.
Do you guys have any reasons why i shouldnt do this.
Thanks,
Jason
So...
All My friends are 4x4 guys, and i went over to a friend of mines house last night who was painting his 85 4runner with Safety Blue Industrial paint that you can buy from your hardware store for $22 a gallon. Let me tell you, his truck looked great. He only used about 1/4 gallon, and he has a fairly thick coat on. So im thinking it's too good to be true, so i ride with him over to a friend of his house that has another 4runner that he also painted with the industrial paint, and it has been on for over a year, and it still looked perfect.
If you are wondering what kind of pain this is, it is the paint they use for bulldozers, steamrollers, and handrails and such in industrial buildings.
Im thinking of painting my car safety blue,which is somwhat like a north carolina or baby blue.
Do you guys have any reasons why i shouldnt do this.
Thanks,
Jason
#2
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isn't that stuff kind of rubbery? you can always peel it off handrails and crap. I'd be kind of worried that it would just start peeling off if you ever got a scratch in it or something.
but I'm interested in hearing what others have to say about this
but I'm interested in hearing what others have to say about this
#3
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Personally there is no way I would paint my car with that stuff. Im kinda **** about those types of things. But hey, if you think it looks good and you'll be satisfied with it then go for it.
#4
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Do you plan on clearcoating it? If so a paintjob will still be expensive. If you dont clearcoat it, it will oxidize quickly if left in the weather. When it comes to a paintjob, you get what you pay for.
#5
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I work at an industrial electric company and we paint most of our control cabinets "Osha Safety Blue" when we do not have them powdercoated the same. I really like the color as well- when it is tinted on the darker side. It is fairly easy to paint (see saturation level).
We use $100 a gallon Dupont Centuron arcylic paint- not that cheap stuff. Prep is what really makes the difference though...
We use $100 a gallon Dupont Centuron arcylic paint- not that cheap stuff. Prep is what really makes the difference though...
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#8
Yeha for Sure, if it's cheap enough to experiment with and you like the results, even if it doesn't last long, you can just do it over! haha.. I might experiment with my own paint job this summer.. i'll have LOTS of pics!
#10
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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it'll be different, since your friends cars look decent and they've got some use and time on them, why not try it, if not you can always sand it all down, reprep it and goto maaco or scheib and have htem spray a coat on.
from what people have said if you do the prep work, their painting isnt bad at all.
from what people have said if you do the prep work, their painting isnt bad at all.
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Ok guys, The finish looks pretty good, and The guy with they safety yellow 4runner has had his on for like 6 or 7 months he says, and i dont see any signs of peeling or oxidation. I will probally try it with a clearcoat over theh top. Since i actually have some clearcoat already, and see the outcome. I will post pics in a new thread when i get it done. Maybe it will look good, and last a long time, and i will solve everyones problems witha decent cheap painjob.
Jason
Jason
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Originally posted by downwinddave
I have seen a car painted with a broom.
It is really easy, fast, and if you use an old broom, you just toss it when your done.
I have seen a car painted with a broom.
It is really easy, fast, and if you use an old broom, you just toss it when your done.
Jason
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Ever heard of DuPont Imron paint? Seen it on any custom applications? It is in the industrial paint catalog. A friend with a '37 Rolls Royce used it, and has won lots of awards for paint with it.
It is some of the most durable paint there is.
db
It is some of the most durable paint there is.
db
#17
Rotary Motoring
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Well, yes I have heard of Dupont Imron-
It is an industrial epoxy paint that is usually used on machinery and tractor trailor trucks and is INCREDIBLY durable and heat and oxidation resistant. People on this very forum have had excellant success painting ROTARY ENGINE parts w/ it.
Harder to use so you won't see it in a auto bodyshop. Gee, must suck if it is industrial
It is an industrial epoxy paint that is usually used on machinery and tractor trailor trucks and is INCREDIBLY durable and heat and oxidation resistant. People on this very forum have had excellant success painting ROTARY ENGINE parts w/ it.
Harder to use so you won't see it in a auto bodyshop. Gee, must suck if it is industrial
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A word of caution regarding Imron-
Proper body prep is extremely important-I have a '62 Austin Healy Sprite that the previous owner had painted with Imron, and he had not prepped the body properly for paint. Where stones had hit the front of the car, rather than small chips in the paint, the paint had flaked off, and there were dime sized bare spots.
On the upside, though, Imron is durable as previous posters have said. When the body was taken to the shop to be stripped, the acid did not touch the paint, and it had to be removed by bead blasting
Proper body prep is extremely important-I have a '62 Austin Healy Sprite that the previous owner had painted with Imron, and he had not prepped the body properly for paint. Where stones had hit the front of the car, rather than small chips in the paint, the paint had flaked off, and there were dime sized bare spots.
On the upside, though, Imron is durable as previous posters have said. When the body was taken to the shop to be stripped, the acid did not touch the paint, and it had to be removed by bead blasting