2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Thinking about goin carb

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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 09:34 AM
  #51  
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Man a 13B looks really clean without the huge intake plenum and all the crap.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 12:53 PM
  #52  
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^ i was interested in the sidedraft also.....

i too want a simplier engine bay... but at the same time there are so many advantages to efi...

it was mentioned that if your staying close to stock you should stay efi, i would think that it would be the other way around. wouldnt it be more advantageous to have more control when you have more power?
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 10:03 PM
  #53  
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I got the sidedraft on my fc and the pros is that i have a lot more power than efi. it is better than having a downdraft... the only con to it is that you may waste a little more gas.. less mpg

its clean and i dont have all those wires all over the place.. i removed the clutter that i used to have ,, here check it out

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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 10:09 PM
  #54  
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i run a carb on my car its holly 650 dp whith msd and a header runs good i would never go back
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 11:12 PM
  #55  
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Question Carb VS. EFI what the hell?

I really would like to convert my 86' S4 to a carb set up. What i want is more power and smooth idle and better mpg. I just don't know enuf about carbs to pick which setup will get me what i want please help
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Old Nov 29, 2006 | 11:32 PM
  #56  
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the owner of mazdatrix uses carbs for all of his fcs. i laughed at him one day and he said that he has never lost b4 with a carb.

-jimmy
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 09:15 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Bison Asko
I really would like to convert my 86' S4 to a carb set up. What i want is more power and smooth idle and better mpg. I just don't know enuf about carbs to pick which setup will get me what i want please help
Upgrade to an aftermarket EFI system. With proper tuning you'll make more power then an equivalent carb setup could ever hope of, have better drivability (car will start cold or hot, have no flat spots, etc.) and get better mileage.

Even fixing all the problems likely present in the existing factory system makes a huge difference.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 01:33 AM
  #58  
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Hi!

You carb guys just impress me! I like the way you stay in your idea! You know carb works greats even if the others are poking at you because it's old fashioned tech!

I might have a couple of questions here for you. I plan to install a 13B in my beetle so I will convert it to carb for obvious wiring and headache questions!

1. Rotary needs a little of oil in the fuel mixture to fonction well, right? So how do you add the fuel in a carb setup? Is they are connections directly on the carb?

2. For the 5ht and 6ht port, what did you do? Because they are managed by something that is required in a EFI setup but that is not present in a carb setup?

Thanks !
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 10:13 AM
  #59  
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Most of the time carb conversions will premix, or just plumb the oil feed tubes into the intake manifold via nipples.

Most carb conversions eliminate the aux ports as well.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 12:07 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Most carb conversions eliminate the aux ports as well.
So they aren't used at all or opened all the time?

Is it better to take a 4 ports 13B in the case they aren't used?
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 12:10 PM
  #61  
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i love carb setups... i used to use nothing but! half of my old turbo setups were used with holleys. blow-thru is the jam!!!!!!!!! they are picky tho so tuning has to be precise.. i became a bigger fan of holleys for street cars and i never ever touched a damn RB prepped carb. it's stupid easy making a normal holley work on a rotary. you just have to know how it all works

buuuut, as much as i love carbs i eventually switched over to stand alone on my personal cars and haven't looked back
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 01:45 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Dark Wanderer
So they aren't used at all or opened all the time?
Is it better to take a 4 ports 13B in the case they aren't used?
Yes, they are opened all the time. So there is a massive reduction in low end torque, but no real gain up top as compared to a working aux port system.

The 4 port of course does not have aux ports, but I have to wonder why you would be willing to build an entire engine to accommodate a carb. Why not spend the money on a superior fuel injection system instead?
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 02:27 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
The 4 port of course does not have aux ports, but I have to wonder why you would be willing to build an entire engine to accommodate a carb. Why not spend the money on a superior fuel injection system instead?
Cause it is not an engine to go in a rx-7. It will go in a 70' Beetle. Wiring will be a lot of trouble and there is not much place in the engine bay... Plus, there is a lot of "garbage" pollution removal things that seems very complicated and frustrating....

Last edited by Dark Wanderer; Dec 17, 2006 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 03:53 PM
  #64  
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Off the top of my head, there are less then 20 wires associated with wiring up an EFI system.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Off the top of my head, there are less then 20 wires associated with wiring up an EFI system.
Ok so let's figure out that I will be able to rewire the FI system. But after that, you also have all the "pollution garbage" that take like maybe 50% of the place.... Not only that, if I remove all the junk, plus a custom header and exhaust sytem (that won't be very long since the engine is in the back of the car) I'll have to buy an aftermarket FI system because the stock one will be too much confused....
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #66  
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The pollution garbage is pretty much independant of the FI system. Also, since this is a project, you can get a standalone (megasquirt) for not much over 300 bucks.
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 08:29 PM
  #67  
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Dark Wanderer check this out: http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=281

Its a little pricey but from what I hear it is very simple and makes for a clean, easy install.
They also have TBs that will fit directly on a Weber or Dell'orto manifold. ( note: this price is for a VW w/ 2 TB, 4 inj., etc. you will only need a half setup for a rotary ~1100 for a complete rig if I remember right)

I suggest finding a pierce manifold, they're a one piece rig that hugs the block and will give you a little more clearance in a vw engine bay+they have no provision for the aux port valves, so you can remove them entirely. I run a Dell'orto on my car with this manifold and no aux valves and launch @3100 rpm for a good solid start.
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