This thing will not start again!!
12-07-08, 04:46 PM
#1
This thing will not start again!!
Ok guys. I did an s5 na swap fdrom my vert into my s5 na coupe. I got it started and running and it has been slow to start the last few times after I majorly flooded it once. But since no real issue has occured. Anyhow I tried to start it today and it wouldnt crank. So I thought it was flooded. I pulled the plugs and dry as could be. I even changed the plugs and still nothing. I put gas in the car and went back to crank it again and nothing whatssoever. Plugs were still dry. I even went to smell the exhaust and nothing at all. Any ideas?
12-07-08, 05:26 PM
#2
Pop Pop BANG FIRE!
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Make sure you are on level ground with at least 2 gallons of gas in the car. Other than that it would have to be a fuel delivery issue. Possibly even a dying battery, blown fuse, or loose wire.
12-07-08, 08:05 PM
#3
I was on level ground. I just put two gallons into it. I had a full battery. Fuses were fine. The car ran perfect on a daily basis before I did the swap, so it is definitely swap related. This time it is no flooding. The fuel pump and filter were on the car as it sat for a few four years but worked just fine last week. I wonder what the issue could be. What could I check to see if it is a delivery issue?
And also, another question. If i dont have the plug going into the oil pressure sensor does that mean I am just not getting a gauge reading or does that mean im not getting oil at all?
And also, another question. If i dont have the plug going into the oil pressure sensor does that mean I am just not getting a gauge reading or does that mean im not getting oil at all?
12-07-08, 10:41 PM
#5
alright cool. So if I pull the fuel lines and see that there is no fuel then it is a fuel problem. What if i see fuel? How else to check my fuel system. Again remember my plugs werent wet with gas and I smelled NOTHING from the exhaust after repeated attempts. When i pulled the plugs and tried cranking it thinking it was flooded I do not remember seeing any fumes coming from the engine bay like it did last time.
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12-09-08, 12:40 PM
#8
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green plug by the pressure senor. take a wire and crimp two spades on it then stick both ends in the two plug holes. take the hose from your fuel rail and put it in a bottle/bucket. turn your key to on for a few seconds then go check. if fuel comes out then your problem is electrical. if not then it could be the filter. remove and repeat. if still none check if your fuel pump is getting 12v with the key on. if yes, pumps bad.
12-09-08, 02:21 PM
#11
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have you tried switching the fuel lines?..at the Engine?..sometimes when you install a "new" engine,it is overlooked...The mistake is NOT running the fuel line from the fuel filter to the Primary Rail/injectors...So,Basically the fuel system is hooked up in reverse and the Primary injectors See NO fuel,and the plugs show it,with them Being Dry...anyways that is my Input..check into it..
12-09-08, 04:49 PM
#13
Walk thru it logically.
1) The plugs are dry. A flooded rotary is not a subtle thing. If you take out the plugs and turn it over and its flooded, fuel sprays out of the plug holes. So we know then that no fuel is entering the housings.
2) So first, follow the FSM and test the pressure. If you dont have any or it isnt in spec, then you can trace back to the filter and pump or less likely the FPR. If you do have pressure, then the injectors arent spraying fuel.
3) Assuming its the later, HAILERS has posts about taking out the CAS and with the ignition on, slowly spinning it. You should hear the injectors clicking. If you dont, then you know where to go in your analysis.
Good luck.
1) The plugs are dry. A flooded rotary is not a subtle thing. If you take out the plugs and turn it over and its flooded, fuel sprays out of the plug holes. So we know then that no fuel is entering the housings.
2) So first, follow the FSM and test the pressure. If you dont have any or it isnt in spec, then you can trace back to the filter and pump or less likely the FPR. If you do have pressure, then the injectors arent spraying fuel.
3) Assuming its the later, HAILERS has posts about taking out the CAS and with the ignition on, slowly spinning it. You should hear the injectors clicking. If you dont, then you know where to go in your analysis.
Good luck.
12-09-08, 08:51 PM
#14
ok here is the deal. I pulled the return line off to see if there was pressure with the keys in the ignition and there was none. I pulled the line that runs from the filter to to the motor and there was also none. I assumed that once the car was on the system would pressurize. Apparently it only does it when you are cranking because it uses the mass airflow system.
So i pulled the in flow fuel line off and and cranked it and fuel came gushing out but not squirting like I thought it would. It surely didnt seem like 90 psi.
I changed the fuel pump and the filter and still the same thing. I do see fuel mist coming from the engine when i pull the plugs and crank it without my foot on the pedal.
I also pulled the spark plugs and saw plenty of arc.
I threw some motor oil in the plug holes and nothing.
WTF!!!???
So i pulled the in flow fuel line off and and cranked it and fuel came gushing out but not squirting like I thought it would. It surely didnt seem like 90 psi.
I changed the fuel pump and the filter and still the same thing. I do see fuel mist coming from the engine when i pull the plugs and crank it without my foot on the pedal.
I also pulled the spark plugs and saw plenty of arc.
I threw some motor oil in the plug holes and nothing.
WTF!!!???
12-09-08, 08:54 PM
#15
1. Put the key in the on position, engine off (not like you have a choice on that one).
2. pull the fuel return line off
3. jumper the two-prong yellow connector on the passenger side shock tower, which is fuel pump check connector.
fuel should spew out of there. Or even just jumper it with all the lines hooked up and see if you hear the pump running.
2. pull the fuel return line off
3. jumper the two-prong yellow connector on the passenger side shock tower, which is fuel pump check connector.
fuel should spew out of there. Or even just jumper it with all the lines hooked up and see if you hear the pump running.
12-09-08, 10:20 PM
#17
Yea. you've proved that the pump works, and likely builds up the required pressure since FPR's rarely seem to fail. Even if it wasnt flowing as much as it should, it should still be enough to get the car to catch a little on cranking and idle.
The next most likely bet is that the injectors arent working, or there's a wiring problem somewhere. If its an S5, then you should have the high-imp injectors, unless some S4 parts got mixed in along the way, in which case you may have low-imp injectors and the resistor pack. This is probably unlikely, so the next step would be popping off one of the primary injector plugs, and checking the plug on the harness side for 12v on one of the pins when the car is on (with the negative lead from the voltmeter at ground). If you have 12v at one of the pins, then connect the voltmeter across both pins (with + being on the 12v side). With the car on or off, this should show 0V. When cranking or idling, this should show slightly above 0 (0.25 - 0.5V, as long as it moves off of 0). If this happens, signal to your injectors is most likely correct.
Next thing to check is that if you push the cone inside the AFM in with the car on, you can hear the fuel pump start working and fuel flowing thru the rails. If this happens, then somehow either your injectors have died, or are being told to inject too little fuel, which would be a problem with the MAF most likely
The next most likely bet is that the injectors arent working, or there's a wiring problem somewhere. If its an S5, then you should have the high-imp injectors, unless some S4 parts got mixed in along the way, in which case you may have low-imp injectors and the resistor pack. This is probably unlikely, so the next step would be popping off one of the primary injector plugs, and checking the plug on the harness side for 12v on one of the pins when the car is on (with the negative lead from the voltmeter at ground). If you have 12v at one of the pins, then connect the voltmeter across both pins (with + being on the 12v side). With the car on or off, this should show 0V. When cranking or idling, this should show slightly above 0 (0.25 - 0.5V, as long as it moves off of 0). If this happens, signal to your injectors is most likely correct.
Next thing to check is that if you push the cone inside the AFM in with the car on, you can hear the fuel pump start working and fuel flowing thru the rails. If this happens, then somehow either your injectors have died, or are being told to inject too little fuel, which would be a problem with the MAF most likely
02-16-09, 03:29 PM
#22
************. It is doing it again. Now jumpering doesnt help at all. I can put the jumper wire and hear the fuel moving through the system and I have compression, I am just not getting any fuel. My plugs arent wet or anything when I pull them out.
02-16-09, 03:39 PM
#23
Next thing to check is that if you push the cone inside the AFM in with the car on, you can hear the fuel pump start working and fuel flowing thru the rails. If this happens, then somehow either your injectors have died, or are being told to inject too little fuel, which would be a problem with the MAF most likely
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