Thermostat-Stant???
#2
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
I've bought thermostats from Mazdatrix with no name on the box etc. They all were 160* thermostats. Sucked. Worked but sucked. Supposed to be 180*F thermostats.
Thermostats with no jiggle pin work just fine for me. I care not what others think or say on that subject. I've three aftermarket (180* and 190*F ) thermostats that work just fine in Tx. I also have run a KOYO and no underpan in the summer and don't overheat. So much for convention.
Thermostats with no jiggle pin work just fine for me. I care not what others think or say on that subject. I've three aftermarket (180* and 190*F ) thermostats that work just fine in Tx. I also have run a KOYO and no underpan in the summer and don't overheat. So much for convention.
#3
The Stant box says 180F. Funny, I'v tried 3 thermostats with no jiggle and car would head towards overheating. I kept having to reinstall the old one that has the jiggle and it operates fine. Wierd.
Dash is apart right now so once I finish I'll try this Stant. It just becomes a pain to take ones installed back out. Not sure why the jiggle is there I assume it allows bleedby? Would drilling a tiny hole be the same effect in a thermostat w/o a jiggle?
Dash is apart right now so once I finish I'll try this Stant. It just becomes a pain to take ones installed back out. Not sure why the jiggle is there I assume it allows bleedby? Would drilling a tiny hole be the same effect in a thermostat w/o a jiggle?
#6
547hp at the flywheel
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the jiggle pin is for bleeding. without it you end up with air under the thermostat so for everyone having issues after replacing it with a stant and no jiggle pin... bleed the system better.
#7
All right this Stant sucks. I bled the system all I could but car still tries to go towards overheating. I put the old (OEM) one in and everything is fine. Need to change the old one though because its been in there for years. I know someone has a manufacturer of type thermostat that works?
Remember that 90' up thermostats have been dicontinued by mazda.
Remember that 90' up thermostats have been dicontinued by mazda.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
Mazdatrix doesn't say that, so I don't know why you keep repeating it. You are wrong. Mazdatrix only says they don't like the rubber in the seal, so thy sell Stant instead.
I also hope you understand that Mazdatrix, while a fine supplier of mazda stuff is NOT Mazda.
The last stat I bought was OEM and I got it from Rotary Performance in Garland TX. You can still find the OEM thermostat at RX7.com
http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fcengine_cooling.html
Keeping the cooling system maintained is definately a priority to any RX owner. To regulate the temperature of the engine, we’ve never found anything superior to the Mazda OE thermostat. Here it is by popular demand. Sold in the original Mazda box (on 89-91 the gasket is sold separately).
Mazda Genuine Thermostat 86-88
Price: $15.95
dyno chartview cart
Mazda Genuine Thermostat 89-95
Price: $15.95
dyno chartview cart
Thermostat gasket (o-ring) 89-95 Rx7
Price: $2.35
add to cartview cart
#10
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Go to Autozone. Tell them you need a thermostat for a 19?? Mazda RX-7.
They will give you one. It will have a *jiggle pin*.
It may not be a Stant but who cares. I've bought a couple from them from different manufacturers and they both have *jiggle pins*. Get one that is 180*F.
They will give you one. It will have a *jiggle pin*.
It may not be a Stant but who cares. I've bought a couple from them from different manufacturers and they both have *jiggle pins*. Get one that is 180*F.
#13
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,829
Received 2,596 Likes
on
1,844 Posts
mazda use has been supplying a stant for the 86-88 cars for like 5 years now, anything with a 9u/9a part number.
the 89-03 stat was available from mazda until a couple years ago, again they now give you stant.
there are a couple of places that still have the oem NTC thermostat
the 89-03 stat was available from mazda until a couple years ago, again they now give you stant.
there are a couple of places that still have the oem NTC thermostat
#14
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
mazda use has been supplying a stant for the 86-88 cars for like 5 years now, anything with a 9u/9a part number.
the 89-03 stat was available from mazda until a couple years ago, again they now give you stant.
there are a couple of places that still have the oem NTC thermostat
the 89-03 stat was available from mazda until a couple years ago, again they now give you stant.
there are a couple of places that still have the oem NTC thermostat
Example: On my wife's Celica, the Nippon radiator cap from Toyota works. From the parts store, the Nippon radiator cap does not work-the lower seal does not reach far enough to seal, therefore not permitting the radiator to pressurize. they are not the same, but both are made by nippon and both are intended for that application. So, I pay $25 for a radiator cap from the dealer.
If you buy a 'mazda oem' thermostat from mazda it will meet mazda specs-or they wouldn't sell it. Why is this concept hard to understand? Does anyone really think that the original thermostat supplier is the only supplier that mazda ever used or will ever use?
#16
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,829
Received 2,596 Likes
on
1,844 Posts
Mazda does not make thermostats. They spec out thermostats and have them manufactured by...companies that make thermostats. Stant makes thermostats. If mazda specs thermostats from stant, that doesn't mean the kinda generic stant t-stat from the parts store is the same.
Example: On my wife's Celica, the Nippon radiator cap from Toyota works. From the parts store, the Nippon radiator cap does not work-the lower seal does not reach far enough to seal, therefore not permitting the radiator to pressurize. they are not the same, but both are made by nippon and both are intended for that application. So, I pay $25 for a radiator cap from the dealer.
If you buy a 'mazda oem' thermostat from mazda it will meet mazda specs-or they wouldn't sell it. Why is this concept hard to understand? Does anyone really think that the original thermostat supplier is the only supplier that mazda ever used or will ever use?
Example: On my wife's Celica, the Nippon radiator cap from Toyota works. From the parts store, the Nippon radiator cap does not work-the lower seal does not reach far enough to seal, therefore not permitting the radiator to pressurize. they are not the same, but both are made by nippon and both are intended for that application. So, I pay $25 for a radiator cap from the dealer.
If you buy a 'mazda oem' thermostat from mazda it will meet mazda specs-or they wouldn't sell it. Why is this concept hard to understand? Does anyone really think that the original thermostat supplier is the only supplier that mazda ever used or will ever use?
simple fact is that the thermostats we USED to get from mazda japan thru mazda usa were stamped NTC. you can buy an NTC thermostat thru the aftermarket, and its the same thing as what was in the mazda box.
a few years ago mazdausa changed the part number of the thermostat, and opening the box reveals a stant part.
i dont know if stant changed their design, but they used to not work, because they didnt cover the bypass port. also the QC on stant stuff used to be really crap, something like 1 in 5 radiator caps were good right out of the package
in japan you still get an NTC thermostat, if you go to mazda
#17
Shpee
iTrader: (6)
had a stant in mine but my car wouldnt ever warm up enough...jst ordered a oem one from mazda and put it in and it runs perfect temp now...the oem one is deff alot better made than the stant....mazda didnt say nething to me about discontinuing anything....the oem one was 22 bucks tho and the stant one was like 6
#18
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
you're assuming a lot. you assume that the parts sourcing guy in the us even knows to call someone in japan, 23 years AFTER the car was designed...
simple fact is that the thermostats we USED to get from mazda japan thru mazda usa were stamped NTC. you can buy an NTC thermostat thru the aftermarket, and its the same thing as what was in the mazda box.
a few years ago mazdausa changed the part number of the thermostat, and opening the box reveals a stant part.
i dont know if stant changed their design, but they used to not work, because they didnt cover the bypass port. also the QC on stant stuff used to be really crap, something like 1 in 5 radiator caps were good right out of the package
in japan you still get an NTC thermostat, if you go to mazda
simple fact is that the thermostats we USED to get from mazda japan thru mazda usa were stamped NTC. you can buy an NTC thermostat thru the aftermarket, and its the same thing as what was in the mazda box.
a few years ago mazdausa changed the part number of the thermostat, and opening the box reveals a stant part.
i dont know if stant changed their design, but they used to not work, because they didnt cover the bypass port. also the QC on stant stuff used to be really crap, something like 1 in 5 radiator caps were good right out of the package
in japan you still get an NTC thermostat, if you go to mazda
I'm not assuming anything. I am stating how it is supposed to work.
So, let's see what we have here:
There are lots of claims of Stant not working-most of these fall into the catagory of either "I heard that stant is crap" or "once upon a time we all had trouble with Stant"
There are some claims of Stant Aftermarket working just fine. Hailers for one.
There are some claims of Mazda OEM (which you claim is now Stant ) working fine.
Questions for you:
Do you have any recent experience with the current Stant provided from Mazdatrix not working? Do you have any experience with the current Mazda OEM (you say stant) not workng? If so, please let us know. That would be a most important bit of info and would likely end this discussion thread.
One more thought is that if in your current experience the NTC is the only way to go, you should have a group buy.
Thanks!
#20
FC of DOOM
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Santa Monica Mountians
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone have the part number of the stant with the jiggle pin? Will drilling a hole in the crap OEM thermostat fix the problem. I replaced my friends thermostat in a 1989 GTU with OEM thermostat and now it having overheating issues. He threw out the old one or I would put it back in.
#21
(blank)
iTrader: (1)
Drill a hole in it for now.
More importantly, when you take it out for drilling, fill the engine with coolant past the hole where the thermostat was. You may have some air there causing the thermostat not to warm up and open. Was the top radiator hose warm when the engine showed warm on the gauge?
There's another thread very similar to this in the same section...I think coolant problems.
Be right back...
More importantly, when you take it out for drilling, fill the engine with coolant past the hole where the thermostat was. You may have some air there causing the thermostat not to warm up and open. Was the top radiator hose warm when the engine showed warm on the gauge?
There's another thread very similar to this in the same section...I think coolant problems.
Be right back...
#22
(blank)
iTrader: (1)
My post was lost, but see this:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/cooling-system-problem-question-859431/
Same advice...take the thermostat out, add the coolant past the hole. Make sure coolant is up to thermostat so that it'll get heat to open up. Yes, you can drill the hole to help air bleed, but I think that may not be as good as a hole with the jiggle pin.
My theory is the jiggle pin dances around due to coolant flow around it and helps bubbles go past by breaking them.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/cooling-system-problem-question-859431/
Same advice...take the thermostat out, add the coolant past the hole. Make sure coolant is up to thermostat so that it'll get heat to open up. Yes, you can drill the hole to help air bleed, but I think that may not be as good as a hole with the jiggle pin.
My theory is the jiggle pin dances around due to coolant flow around it and helps bubbles go past by breaking them.
#24
FC of DOOM
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Santa Monica Mountians
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The air needs to be bled out completely. I tested the thermostat in a hot pan of water with a turkey temp gauge. Thermostat opened up at 185F and closed at 175F. After 4 cycles of warming the car up,letting it cool off, and bleeding the system, the FC now stays cool, and the coolant buzzer doesn't go off.