Hello,

I am just wondering that is there Engine Flush service for Rotary Engine? The regular engine flush is only for the piston engine right? I am not sure that regular engine flush service is also for rotary or not. Any insights?

thanks,
-Ryousuke

 

i personaly prefer to just flush out the engine with regular services, it's hard to say what engine flush can do to the rubber oil seals in these engines, it may be fine but i wouldn't want to risk it unless the engine was already on its last leg.

 

I agreed with Karack. I have to research about that. What I recommend you to do beside engine flush (sounds like you just buy the FC3S) is to do the tune-up. Use 5-20W or 5-30W SYNthetic Oil like Royal Purple or Idemetsu or Amsoil. For gear and differential oil, use SYNThetic OIL too. The brand that I would recommend is Redline.

Go ahead and run with your new tune-up setting for couple weeks before you do the engine flush.

I would recommend either go to Mazda Dealership (not new one but the one opens up the business almost 20 or some years) or private Rotary Specialist Shop.

I look up your location and do a search.

Comparing to other states, California has the most rotary shops. There is one near your area. It's called Rotary Racing & Reliability. They are in Santa Ana, CA. Ask for Lui, tell him that Mike (the guy has 1990 red FC3S GXL garage car) told you go there.

Price over there is pretty reasonable. They are selling engines and some other parts for your FC and FD too.

IF you want to go to Dealership for "Rotary Engine Flush", there is a Mazda dealership at I-5 South... near Irvine Spectrum. It's in Irvine Auto Center. They did pretty good job on Rotary unlike those young dealerships.

-M

 

Anyone else? Need more suggestions and answers!!!???

 

What I usually do when I want to flush the engine is I change the oil, and put in a fresh oil filter. Then I put in 3 quarts of regular 10w30 Castrol GTX and 1 quart of regular ATF, any brand. The ATF has lots of detergents and will scrub out the engine quick. It's thin too so it's almost like soap in the engine lol. Then you drive for 50 or 100 miles, and change the oil again. All the engines I have done this on come out clean and SHINY! Want to see proof?


This isn't actual Mazda parts, but same difference.



The shiny one is 20 years old, the crusty one is 8 years old. The shiny one actually had higher milage, but I always changed the oil and flushed it occasionally. The bearings didn't show any signs of wear when the engine was taken apart at 130,000 miles. This was on a piston engine FYI.

 

We use to do the engine flushes with the Amsoil Engine cleaner. Yes its good but on a real old engine its not a good idea weather its a piston or rotary.
my 2 cents

 

sometimes the varnish is the only thing that seals the engine, if you clean out that varnish you can cause internal oil leaks in turn oil burning, blue smoke etc.

 

True, my engines have always been leakers though.

 

After reading numerous threads on the water trick etc. I went to autozone and picked up a can of Valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=52 it took about 15 mins to run half the can through the engine. It smoked out the neighborhood and burned my eyes pretty bad. The result: restored horsepower. It was an engine with 100k on it and compression in the 90s. It ran so much smoother afterwords. Its still running strong and that was last year. After that I swore by it. Ran half a can through my gxl that had a rebuild with unknown amount of miles. I thought it was fast before the cleaning, it loved it. So you might want to pick up a can, but do it at your own risk.

 

Varnish?

 

So it's not a good idea to do engine flush in Rotary?

GodSquadMandrake, if I do like your described above, will my engine leak like yours? Karack, then... what you recommend?

Anybody else?

 

this is a apples and oranges comparison, this is about crankcase cleaning not combustion chamber cleaning.

varnish is the discoloration on the oil pumps in the picture above, when oil becomes old and filthy it leaves a deposit most call varnish, it is mainly ash and carbon.

 

well atleast we have a good discussion goin on here

 

So is varnish good or bad? That old oil pump went back into an engine lol.

 

DON'T GET TAKEN IN BY THESE BULLSHIT SCAMS.

Good, quality engine oils come with "detergents" in them, so doing proper engine oil changes will keep the insides clean.
So unless you're abusing your engine and not doing proper oil changes (or using crappy oil), these engine flush services will do NOTHING for your motor.

As for the "water trick", that has NOTHING to do with what these engine flush services do.


-Ted

 

See, that's the thing. I am not sure my previous owner use "Cheap" oil or what...
Plus, my previous car owner doesn't know **** about this car that's why I took it over.

Anyway, Ted or anyone else like to give me more insight?

 

Sounds like it only cleans the Fuel Injectors... so there is no way to clean the carbon on Rotors?

Seafoam? or... no other ways beside disassebling the engine to clean all carbons from rotors?

 

Redline a lot?

 

carb cleaner or water induction can clean carbon off the faces of the rotors in the combustion chambers, as for varnish in the engine i would leave it alone, by trying to get it out of there you will probably cause more damage than good.

 

Start using a good, quality oil and stick to 3,000 mile oil change intervals.
This will clean all the internals (oil passages) eventually.


-Ted

 

Why are you worried?
If you're paranoid about it...
Pull the stock oil injection - start premixing.
Do the "water" trick.
Redline the engine everyday.
This will keep the carbon off the rotors.


-Ted

 

I wouldn't risk it if the engine is on its last leg.
It will probably leak.

 

Thanks Ted,

Is there anyone else? I really like this discussion and hopefully to hear more alternative methods about the Engine Flush.

Btw, thanks for those of you try to answer my questions. I greatly appreciate you guys taking time to answer.

Anyone has any experience with Engine OIL? How about for Gear and Differential OIL? FULL synthetic? Which one? Redline, Royal Purple, Idemitsu, Amsoil?

I went to RX8club.com to do a search. Those are the oil they use for RX8 but I don't know if they could be used for 2nd Gen FC3S.

Any Suggestions? Share your experience? I don't think Rotary God signed up for this forum, huh?

 

btw, I should show off my FC.

I plan to paint into white in the future but not for now. Sorry, kind of off topic.

 

I use Redline MT-90 in the trans and 75W90 in the rear diff.
Using synths in the trans and diff is not only desired, but it's highly recommended.
I've heard of positive experiences with Royal Purple also.


-Ted