Is there a such thing called Engine Flush...?
03-25-06, 11:20 AM
#26
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Any other combinations?
I was thinking to mix Idemitsu Rotary OIL with Amsoil... for engine oil since Idemitsu is a rotary racing oil. Theoratically, the race oil only last for one race competition and that's why I was thinking to mix with AMsoil.
I was thinking to mix Idemitsu Rotary OIL with Amsoil... for engine oil since Idemitsu is a rotary racing oil. Theoratically, the race oil only last for one race competition and that's why I was thinking to mix with AMsoil.
03-25-06, 02:04 PM
#28
Originally Posted by Karack
why is synth in the diff preferred? i have seen plenty of diff failures with synthetic gear oils, no not gear failures due to abuse but bearing failures and in many different make differentials and bearing makes.
tit for tat
I supposed it would be "recommened" simply for the basic reasons that make synthetic "better" than conventional, the improved breakdown, less run off, etc, etc.
But really I'd like to take two brand new diffs and brand new trannies one with conv. one with synth. and run them side by side and see if there is enough of a difference that makes up for the somewhat extortionist pricing on synthetic.....
03-25-06, 02:26 PM
#30
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the.white.fc3s ... i love your interior it looks sooo good i just got another fc and im gonna rip the niterior out and have it all black hopefully vinyl or sumthing im not digggin the blue cloth on a red car and my white fc has a red interior well just lettin ya know your car looks clean!
03-25-06, 07:08 PM
#31
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Thanks Motoman,
I didn't change anything interior. Everything came from Original stock and had been 20 years.
It's my baby... Garage Baby~
Meow~
Anyway,
So, Synthetic for Gear or Non-Syntehtic for Gear?
I didn't change anything interior. Everything came from Original stock and had been 20 years.
It's my baby... Garage Baby~
Meow~
Anyway,
So, Synthetic for Gear or Non-Syntehtic for Gear?
03-25-06, 08:55 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by the.white.fc3s
I was thinking to mix Idemitsu Rotary OIL with Amsoil... for engine oil since Idemitsu is a rotary racing oil. Theoratically, the race oil only last for one race competition and that's why I was thinking to mix with AMsoil.
-Ted
03-25-06, 08:57 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Karack
why is synth in the diff preferred? i have seen plenty of diff failures with synthetic gear oils, no not gear failures due to abuse but bearing failures and in many different make differentials and bearing makes.
that's what i'm getting at, i just save my money. the only place i would use a synthetic is in the tranny and premixing.
-Ted
03-25-06, 11:29 PM
#36
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After reading numerous threads on the water trick etc. I went to autozone and picked up a can of Valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/prod....asp?product=52 it took about 15 mins to run half the can through the engine. It smoked out the neighborhood and burned my eyes pretty bad. The result: restored horsepower. It was an engine with 100k on it and compression in the 90s. It ran so much smoother afterwords. Its still running strong and that was last year. After that I swore by it. Ran half a can through my gxl that had a rebuild with unknown amount of miles. I thought it was fast before the cleaning, it loved it. So you might want to pick up a can, but do it at your own risk.
03-27-06, 02:05 AM
#39
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Originally Posted by RETed
Why are you worried?
If you're paranoid about it...
Pull the stock oil injection - start premixing.
Do the "water" trick.
Redline the engine everyday.
This will keep the carbon off the rotors.
-Ted
If you're paranoid about it...
Pull the stock oil injection - start premixing.
Do the "water" trick.
Redline the engine everyday.
This will keep the carbon off the rotors.
-Ted
Last edited by darksider; 03-27-06 at 02:07 AM.
03-27-06, 02:16 AM
#40
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It doesn't really matter.
It's the speed of the motor spinning that keeps the carbon from sticking.
What I typically do is if you're jumping on the freeway, just redline 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd on the merge.
Be careful as this tends to scare other cars.
-Ted
It's the speed of the motor spinning that keeps the carbon from sticking.
What I typically do is if you're jumping on the freeway, just redline 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd on the merge.
Be careful as this tends to scare other cars.
-Ted
03-27-06, 02:33 AM
#41
Originally Posted by RETed
It doesn't really matter.
It's the speed of the motor spinning that keeps the carbon from sticking.
What I typically do is if you're jumping on the freeway, just redline 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd on the merge.
Be careful as this tends to scare other cars.
-Ted
It's the speed of the motor spinning that keeps the carbon from sticking.
What I typically do is if you're jumping on the freeway, just redline 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd on the merge.
Be careful as this tends to scare other cars.
-Ted
03-27-06, 02:49 AM
#42
Originally Posted by the.white.fc3s
Hello,
I am just wondering that is there Engine Flush service for Rotary Engine? The regular engine flush is only for the piston engine right? I am not sure that regular engine flush service is also for rotary or not. Any insights?
thanks,
-Ryousuke
I am just wondering that is there Engine Flush service for Rotary Engine? The regular engine flush is only for the piston engine right? I am not sure that regular engine flush service is also for rotary or not. Any insights?
thanks,
-Ryousuke
I have actual experience using engine flush in my Fd. It's been flushed over 6 times and the stock original engine has over 103k with original turbos and still runs perfect. I recently let the engine sit up for 2 months and purposely tried to flood it with a quick start-up and shut down. It didn't flood and has never flooded. This thread here explains what I did.
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/flooding-what-flooding-521685/
Engine flush is designed to completely break down engine deposits and such. It will work it's way through the OMP lines and into the combustion chamber where it will also clean out the carbon deposits. It will clean the engine crud and turbo bearings out which keep the oil system less contaminated. I have not had any problem with using it. If you do start to use it, I recommend you do about 3 to 4 flushes if you have never done it before. 1 flush a week will clean things out faster. Just buy some cheap oil and cheap filters. I spent 10 bucks every time I did it. That's exactly what I did when I started. It's nice to change the oil now and it still looks much cleaner like it was a newer engine.
Last edited by t-von; 03-27-06 at 02:52 AM.
03-27-06, 02:53 AM
#43
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I change my oil every 5,000km and use and engine flush every 3-4 oil changes. When using the flush the oil drains noticeably better, appearing thinner than oil on its own and running much freer. Getting more oil out of the engine means less crap left in it. So the fact that I can see it doing something positive, and even the stuff from reputable brands is cheap, means I have no problem using it and certainly don't consider it a rip-off. I also see absolutely no reason why it shouldn't be used a rotary. That's just another one of those dumb rotaries-are-totally-different-to-piston-engines myths.
Karack, why would synthetic oil be any less beneficial in the diff than in the gearbox? That doesn't seem to make much sense.
Karack, why would synthetic oil be any less beneficial in the diff than in the gearbox? That doesn't seem to make much sense.
03-27-06, 03:08 AM
#44
i have noticed some synthetics help with grinding gears in the gearbox, i have seen more differentials fail with synthetic gear oil than i have using standard gear oil. i only speak from my past experiences, people can choose whatever type of oil they want.
03-27-06, 08:57 AM
#45
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I change my oil every 5,000km and use and engine flush every 3-4 oil changes. When using the flush the oil drains noticeably better, appearing thinner than oil on its own and running much freer. Getting more oil out of the engine means less crap left in it. So the fact that I can see it doing something positive, and even the stuff from reputable brands is cheap, means I have no problem using it and certainly don't consider it a rip-off. I also see absolutely no reason why it shouldn't be used a rotary. That's just another one of those dumb rotaries-are-totally-different-to-piston-engines myths.
Claims it didn't do anything harmful, but the valve covers always use to come off slick and clean.
Now we all know about Teflon and engines...
Hint, duPont started to sue companies about their claims of their Teflon in engines.
Yeah, you're right...oil flowing more out of the engine has got to be better...
-Ted
04-28-06, 12:58 AM
#49
Originally Posted by the.white.fc3s
Thanks Ted,
Is there anyone else? I really like this discussion and hopefully to hear more alternative methods about the Engine Flush.
Btw, thanks for those of you try to answer my questions. I greatly appreciate you guys taking time to answer.
Anyone has any experience with Engine OIL? How about for Gear and Differential OIL? FULL synthetic? Which one? Redline, Royal Purple, Idemitsu, Amsoil?
I went to RX8club.com to do a search. Those are the oil they use for RX8 but I don't know if they could be used for 2nd Gen FC3S.
Any Suggestions? Share your experience? I don't think Rotary God signed up for this forum, huh?
Is there anyone else? I really like this discussion and hopefully to hear more alternative methods about the Engine Flush.
Btw, thanks for those of you try to answer my questions. I greatly appreciate you guys taking time to answer.
Anyone has any experience with Engine OIL? How about for Gear and Differential OIL? FULL synthetic? Which one? Redline, Royal Purple, Idemitsu, Amsoil?
I went to RX8club.com to do a search. Those are the oil they use for RX8 but I don't know if they could be used for 2nd Gen FC3S.
Any Suggestions? Share your experience? I don't think Rotary God signed up for this forum, huh?
see if i bother "trying" with my input again...