Is there a CHECK VALVE in the fuel line other than the one in the pump...
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Is there a CHECK VALVE in the fuel line other than the one in the pump...
I know there is one in the fuel pump...and there is a three way check valve back by the tank...can that three way cause vapor lock if malfuntioning? I don't think it handles fuel. I'm getting vapor lock from time to time and its not letting the fuel rail pressurize when that happens....fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and ECU all verified OK...any help will be appreciated.
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Harley- check that fuel pump ground, it's somewhere in the back there in front of the right side tail light assy. Better yet, follow the entire ground circuit from that connector on the strut tower all the way to that ground. Note there is also a ground in front of the left side tail lights somewhere, this one is not it. This idea popped into my head last night as I was thinking about the chase you got going on...Check that ground!!!
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YO...Wayne...my main tech man...there is a ground on top of the fuel tank assembly and I cleaned and checked that...you mean there is another one back by the tail lights? Driver Side?...I guess it will be a screw or bolt attached to the body or whatever ?..
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Man, it might be on top of the tank, with these stupid japanese drawings of locations in our FSMs, it's hard to tell, and I've never had to mess with it
The pump shares the ground (where ever it is) with several other systems, notably tail lights, so I wouldn't think Mazda would have put it on the tank body. That one on the tank is probably just a "bonding jumper", to make sure no static electricity tries to make a jump anywhere near the tank.
Follow the ground wire down the harness till it hits a ground, then pull the bolt & take a good look at everything.
The pump shares the ground (where ever it is) with several other systems, notably tail lights, so I wouldn't think Mazda would have put it on the tank body. That one on the tank is probably just a "bonding jumper", to make sure no static electricity tries to make a jump anywhere near the tank.
Follow the ground wire down the harness till it hits a ground, then pull the bolt & take a good look at everything.
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Bumpity...I'm also going to replace the fuel lines coming off the tank area...gonna blow out those lines...you never know...there may be some "flaps" inside the lines but if so its uncanny how so far it always runs fine once started...by the way... I actually never verified the voltage during a no start...
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Did the ground look good?
Harley, you gotta get a voltage reading during a no-start, this is important because (if that ground is good) if you have voltage, we can rule out everything electrical, and start concentrating on the mechanical & fluid delivery systems. One troubleshooting step at a time, that's how it's done...
Harley, you gotta get a voltage reading during a no-start, this is important because (if that ground is good) if you have voltage, we can rule out everything electrical, and start concentrating on the mechanical & fluid delivery systems. One troubleshooting step at a time, that's how it's done...
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Yes Sir, one step at a time for sure...gotta rig me up the lines to the the meter cause I'm usually alone when it happens...I won't be able to look at (for) the ground till tonight after work...
Ok, Impreza...don't know anything about switching to a vented cap, but there is nothing wrong the way its set up as stock with the 3-way check valve...keeps fuel fumes from stinking up around the car...the will escape into the atmosphere either raw or burned anyway, but stock is the best way I think for a simple system as that...my opinion...
Ok, Impreza...don't know anything about switching to a vented cap, but there is nothing wrong the way its set up as stock with the 3-way check valve...keeps fuel fumes from stinking up around the car...the will escape into the atmosphere either raw or burned anyway, but stock is the best way I think for a simple system as that...my opinion...
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LOL, what are you bumping for? You need to verify voltage or no voltage during a no-start, at the left strut connector, and you need to verify a good pump ground...Only then can we take it to the next step...
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Rig the meter all the way up to the cockpit? That'll work, and you'll get a chance to view the voltages during every start for comparison...
Found that ground yet? I was gonna go out and track it down on my car today, but ran out of time...
Found that ground yet? I was gonna go out and track it down on my car today, but ran out of time...
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I wish you had...that means I gotta go out in the garage tonight and do it...LOL...by the way...there is a chance I may be relocating to the Conroe/Woodlands area of North Houston..
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Well...we'll probably locate just west of the area to be more rural...I lived in Shreveport/Bossier for 15 years until about a year ago and came to Phoenix on sort of working vacation-check it out thing...homesick for the South...
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I just went out & looked real quick at the areas around the tail light assy's, didn't see anything. It's gotta be a big "gang" ground, like the one under the trailing coils, if it has that many circuits going to it. Need a mirror to fully check out everything up under there, though. Maybe I'll just let you find it
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Well...I probably need the practice...gonna sign off and go home...will let you know later 2nite or 2morrow "after" I find it...enjoyed the conversation and of course your interest in the tech side for sure...later Wayne...
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OK, hey, remember, you only need to run one wire up to the meter from the connector, you can just ground the negative meter lead anywhere around the meter (on a good ground, of course)...
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