foxman

Great thread and project, good luck and keep it going.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Thanks and i plan on it.


Ok, so today i got finished swaping the interior parts from the 86 to this car and giving everything a good cleaning. It looks like a new car inside! VERY happy with it, just need to put the drivers dash back together from the PO taking it apart for some reason.

Pictures are coming....


Now, i was doing some more sea-foam to see if i can clean it a little more and i have a question. As anyone that has seen sea-foam work it smokes a LOT. Well as i was putting it in the engine i saw smoke coming from the pass side of the engine. I have seen this a few other times as well. My question is, where is it coming from?

Next step is to get the fuel cut switch installed, 5lug conversion done, the PO alarm uninstalled, get a faceplate for the deck that is in the car, get the Power steering working, and the AC. Then it should pretty much be done!

Drove it around a little more today, i have to say, that thing is fun to drive, if i could get the power steering working it would be even more so. still only works sometimes when hard right or left.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Oh man... I just finished reading this long-*** post. Sounds like you have come a long way.

I can give you a few suggestions. Your idle problem may be directly related to your flooding-leaking injector problem. This is very common with these type fuel injectors. I would guess that your secondaries and possibly primaries are leaking and or one may be stuck. Either way they all need to be cleaned & tested.

After cleaning & testing I would recommend replacing the sock filter on the fuel pump, the stock fuel filter if not already done and running a good quality fuel with a cleaning additive. That's what the Techron is that was mentioned before. By using a fuel with a cleaning additive you keep your injectors working properly all the time. Chevron brand gas has Techron in it. Use regular gas, not premium. You may have a vacuum leak. I use a small bead of gasket sealer on my intake manifolds.

You might consider removing the AWS? Accelerated Warm-up System components( the thermowax and fast idle setup) from the throttlebody. You live in Texas & don't need it. Check out the throttlebody mods at Rotary Ressurection for details. I never missed mine at all.

Make sure your BAC is working properly. You can lose the coolant line to the BAC if you like. If your power steering is malfunctioning this could cause the BAC to keep the idle high - also your Air conditioning also effects the BAC to keep the idle up (or the engine from dying when the AC is turned on).

Clean all grounds & connections if you haven't already.

Spray some PB blaster or similar penetrating spray around your 5th & 6th port actuators over a period of time & start to slowly work them free with some pliers or similar implement. Don't go forcing them really hard. Patience is required here. when you think they are moving somewhat freely use a small burst of compressed air into the actuator pressure line & see if they work. Factory spec is 2-3 psi or there-abouts.

Make sure the air intake hoses from the AFM to the throttle body are correctly attached and clamped and don't forget about the small lines from underneath the intake hose that goes to the OMP spider and the other vacuum line that is on BAC valve.

Thats about all I can think of at the moment & good luck to ya!!!

Ramses666

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for the tips, ok in the order you said them:

It is possible the fuel injectors are leaking, they are old and i would not doubt they are leaking.

The fuel pump, sock, filter, hoses are all brand new. i have some 7-11 gas as it is the closest by a long shot, don't even have a Chevron within 10 mis that i know of. I did however buy every injector cleaner gas additive they had at pepboys and put them all in about 5 gallons of gas. I don't know if it is just me but it seemed to run a little better after that and not flood as fast. I would not even worry about cleaning the injectors, would just get new ones, and since i plan to turbo it in the long run i will milk these if at all possible until then.

The thermowax is already disabled, seemed to make the idle smoother but still idles 1500-2000. The ONLY things that could be letting air in are the BAC and that little valve below it, no idea what that is.

Yeah, my power steering is gone except for hard left and right and then it is only somtimes. the AC i just have turned off until i can have it checked out with a guy i know. i am going to try the power steering computer from the 86 tomorrow if the rain stops.

I cleaned all the grounds i could see, though there might be some i can't. It might have helped the 3800rpm lag but no change to idle.

I already sprayed the aux ports down once, the rear rotors port works perfect, the front though is stuck, i will take your advise and try it every now and then. Though i already bent the shaft some lol.

I have checked and rechecked the vacume lines. i can't find any leaks or anything wrong with them for the life of me.

I will try your suggestions and see what happens!


OK, so i ran the sea-foam through it again tonight and i have to say, that it might be my imaignation but i think it is running a little smoother now and seems to have a little more power.

I am going to have to watch out with this thing, on my first drive today out of my neighbor hood i got on a real road and was doing 60 in a 30 before I knew it! hit the brakes hard, kept going over the whole trip and having to break to get back under. First car with evough power to actually do that, plus it is so smooth that you don't have that loud piston whine when you are going to fast.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

That's prolly not your imagination, all the engines (although they were higher milage) that I've run seafoam through, there has been a noticeable difference afterward.

I know what you mean! I personally have never had much respect for speed "suggestions" but the rotary took that to a new level.

And the speed is deceptive since its so smooth; I gave a buddy of mine a ride in my TII and he swore up and down his KA (not KA-T) 240 could take me.....I guess he was expecting it to sound like a laboring truck engine ? lol

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, i have ran sea-foam through a few engines as well and found it to work, though this seems to have worked better than most of the others i have done. I am woundering if one of my front apex's was sticking and it helped that.

I even let my dad drive it when he came over and he is one of those guys always doing 10mph below the limit. He was goung 75 before he looked down and freaked out lol. Really is a peppy little car and SOOOOO smooth!

Biggest problem i am having with it actually is that is is hard to not squeel the tires when starting off unless i drive like granny. And cops around here LOVE to get you for peeling out. hopfully the wider tires from the 5 lug swap with help that some. heck even in second gear, if i let off the gas and then floor it i can chirp the tires, THAT surprised me.

I have to say, i always liked how the RX7 looked but those little traingles under the hood are really growing on me fast....

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

ok.... Glad to hear things are a little better. I highly recommend some gasket sealer on the intake manifolds. I had similar gremlins with my engine swap. I sealed up the intake manifolds & reset all the air-flow adjustments & have been golden since then.

Actually my idle got too low and & added some timing to bring it up, but you need to get that idle down before you can really measure the timing accurately. Did you replace the rubber grommets on the fuel injectors? If the motor burned twice these could be cracked & leaking.

You could always punt & remove the emissions stuff if you don't have to pass any inspections or not if U do. I live in Florida so I don't have any troubles. It's better to fix what you have & find the problems.

Check your throttle linkages... I know when mine was running badly because of a vacuum leak I had my throttle cable and all at crazy settings to make it run at all. I had to reset everything once I fixed the vacuum leak & I still had one leaking injector giving me idle troubles and flooding issues. The leaking injector finally sorted itself out after a tank of gas run through it. Injector cleaning additives are fine instead of a premium fuel... but be careful.. too much of a good thing can be bad. It throws off the mixture if its too much. You could put in a bottle of injector cleaner every 4 or 5 tank fulls & be fine.

Good Luck!!

Ramses666

It's good to hear that your trying hard to get things right... don't give up your almost there.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

The very rough idle at normal idle speeds is probably due to that one aux port being stuck open. The aux ports (when open) act like a longer duration cam would on a piston engine, and at low RPMs you can get some charge reversal, causing pretty rough/low power operation.

It does not take much air at all to raise the idle from 800 to 1500, so trying to further seal up the manifolds and around the injectors like ramses said could help. If you can force the TB closed, it still seems like an issue with the TB to me, but if you have it off, its not too much more to pull the upper intake manifold etc to re-seal it and check the rubber grommets.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I will be keeping the emisions, we don't have smog but we do have to pass the sniffer. And with the way it smells i am going to need all the help i can get.

All the throttle linkages are stock/normal except for the TPS which i had to adjust some to make up for the high idle.

I am thinking about getting some more injectors to fix what might be a bad pri, if i do have have to pull the intake again i will put some sealer on there. I will also pull the lower intake and fix that aux port.

Well the front aux port is stuck closed, so i doubt that is the problem, if it is open at all it is just barely. and the rear works perfect.

Also, now that i have the thermowax disabled i can no longer force the TB closed, that was the thing that was keeping it open, i now know it is closed all the way.

It just might be the intake sealent that it needs. at this point i am ready to give up on the idle problem, it seems to not be fixable lol.




OK, new Question. Where is the power steering computer located?

And, on the 86, that appears to either have Tii or GXL parts for the drivetrain, what all is better that i could swap over? just the brakes/5 lug stuff? or the struts/shocks too? My car needs new shocks BAD, mine are as good as gone. Any suggestions for someone on a tight budget now?

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I misread that the port was stuck open. If the TB is fully closed and not resting on the hard-stop screw, and the arm doesnt seem bent and it doesnt feel like its binding, then air is getting in around the injectors, past the gaskets, or through an un-plugged nipple or vac leak.

As for swapping stuff over, check on the differential to see whether its flanges fit your NA flanges, or whether its a TII diff. Either way you can swap it over since it will be a limited slip diff (unless its a JDM turbo diff, which would be rare but not completely unheard of), but if its a TII diff, you need to swap the half-shafts as well, and will need a custom driveshaft (which may make the swap not worth it). If its a GXL diff (your driveshaft and halfshaft flanges match up), then its a direct swap.

You can swap the struts too, but may not want to if the parts car doesnt have the auto-adjusting suspension, since you won't have any control over them (like there was much to begin with) unless you swap that entire system. Turbos and 'verts had stiffer spring rates (and probably shock valving too), but physically all the parts are interchangable.

Check the hoods of both cars, one may be steel and the other aluminum. Both the NA and turbo hoods came from the factory as either depending on year, model, trim level etc.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

It is possible that the injectors are letting air around then, though it seems a little unlikely, it is possible. I did reuse the old rings.

I am going to test the diff to see if it is a working LSD later today. then will worry about which diff it is. I kinda doubt that the PO swaped over the TTI shocks and such, so most likely just GXL stuff.

Also, does the base model have the passive rear steering or is that only on the other models?

The hood on the 86 is aluminum but it is damaged, so i don't think i will use it.

While i would have most of the driveline apart anyways i am thinking i might as well get some new shocks since they are cheap. My question is, are "normal" shocks any good for an RX7? Or do you need some special ones? Price is a major factor here.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Well darn the luck, it looks like either the diif on the 86 is not an LSD or it is bad. I know that when i spin it, it sounds real bad so i am thinking it might be a bad LSD.

Here are some pictures, can anyone tell what it is?





Well there goes that idea. oh well, still lots of other stuff to do.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

if it spins and makes bad noises, then that usually means bigger problems then the clutches being worn out. I dont remember the visual differences between the NA and TII cases, just that the NA shafts wont bolt up to the turbo case and vice versa.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Well it doesn't make bad nosies, it is just "rough". That could just be due to sitting but it seems a little bit worse then that. And sure doesn't work as an LSD, though it does have a lot of miles on it, so it could be bad i guess.

How hard/expensive is it to rebuild the LSD if it is just teh clutches? If it is cheap and easy i might pull it apart and see what is in there.



OK, so now to what i am doing now. So i got out there and swaped the Power Steering computer from the 86 to the 87. And it does pretty much the same thing as before. Works hard right and left, it just seems to work more ofthen now and with a "wider working zone".

I know the pump and all the mechnicals are good since it works at all, so it has to be a sensor of some kind. It will not work, then all of the sudden kick in and work perfect until i leave the "working zone", but it doesn't work everytime, it seems to change if it works depending on gear, speed, or something else like that. Have not been able to tell exactly yet.

So what all controls the Power steering? what else should i swap over or test?

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

The steering computer boosts the steering based on vehicle speed in S4s IIRC (either that or engine speed... but i think its vehicle speed), so it could be a problem with that system/wiring

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Well you know now that you mention that i went out to test something. I realized it seemed to help a little all the time, just not the normal power steering. So i drove around in a circle, and went fast and slower, and it seemed the the steering got harder/easier by just a little bit.

I am woundering if it is just needs to be bled by some kind of super method? I have done the lock to lock bleeding routine 3 times.

But would bleeding cause it to work perfect sometimes and not any others? seems like it would work the same across the board.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so i decided to clean my engine off since it was REAL dirty, so now it looks good, and started right up afterwards. but when i was driving it around it was acting funny when you get above ~50000rpm. It just loses all power and will just cut out, but not all the time.

Whats odd is that if i let off the gas some the power comes back here and there, i just have to find that magic spot. So i am thinking it is somthing to do with the TPS.

I have tried setting it over and over again. What pins are you soppsued to test when you use the volt or ohm method? the ground and then which of the other 2? 1 is usually a loot higher then the other.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

that sounds more like a fuel problem to me. Weak fuel pump maybe, or clogged fuel filter (or low on gas again )

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Fuel pump = Brand new and working

Fuel filter = Brand new

Gas = put 10 gallons in the other day and have driven all of maybe 10 miles, and idled for maybe an hour or 2, if it went though that much that fast then i will be bankrupt inside a week lol.

I am going to set the TPS AGAIN today and see if it helps. it is also possible that the water from cleaning the engine did somthing i guess.

It was working fine the other day until ~6500rpm which is about as high as i want to go until i have got it broken back in, trying to keep it below 5k most of the time.

i don't know if maybe my injectors are going out or something. that is possible.

Right now though i want o know what is going on with the power steering. It is driving me CRAZY to have it not work, then kick in then not work ect.

I just wish i knew what and how to check it.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so went out for another test drive.

The power steering seems to be working more often and in more places the more i drive it first off, not sure why that is or what is going on with it.

Does anyone know if there is a way to "hotwire" it to turn the power steering on all the time so i can test if it is mechanical or eletronic?


Then, the no power above ~4000rpm is also getting worse. It pulls hard to 4000, then all of the sudden it stops pulling, will go a little high then just stops. It doesn't bounce, just stops reving and zero power.

now if i let off the gas i get to a point where all of the sudden power is back and the car jercks foward for a second then falls of again, i readjust my foot and power is back, i can do this jercky pedel pumping basically all the way to red line, but it takes a long time and is not fun.

The rpm's never bounce, just stop going up, don't drop either, just stop. even free reving it has a hard time at WPT getting past 5000.

I don't know what it could be. fuel does seem to be the most likely colpret. but as i said, the whole fuel system is all new, except the injectors. could they be going bad? i guess with the way they were leaking it is possible.

Any other ideas?

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

Your injectors have exhibited quite a few signs that they need to be cleaned and flow tested. However I've never heard of injectors causing the specific problem you describe...then again I don't claim to have heard everything.

Does it sputter, or just cut out completely? If its the latter I would start to suspect something electrical. Loose plugs or wires perhaps?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I could check the plugs i guess, but if it was losing spark it would bounce i would think. It just gets to a point where it won't go higher. doesn't drop RPM's at all, just stops going up and has no power. thats what is so odd, it not totally cutting out, it just stops having power to the point where it stops reving and yet doesn't bounce which is what usually will happen if something is being cut off completely.

Plugs and wires are new but i guess i could check them and make sure they are all connected right.

Whats odd it is worked pretty much perfect the other day almost to redline. It lost a little power on the top end but nothing like this.

I am thinking it is either something to do with a sensor/computer or the injectors.

since i can let off the gas a little and all of the sudden full power is back for just a second, then it is gone again, then i can do it again and so on. The power is instant on, instant off. yet never bounces or drops RPM's. Thats what is so odd.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

It's probably the standard 3800 rpm problem. As I recall, it's most often a grounding problem. Aaron Cake has a wonderful write-up on fixing the grounds. btw, that rpm is when the secondaries kick in. You'll find the fixes in the archives.

The other possibility is that your cat is clogged. We had that problem last year and taking off the exhaust fixed it. Once we cleaned up the blood running down from our ears we gutted the cat and all was well (though noisier than before). We are in the final stages of our Tii swap so we weren't concerned about passing smog.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I have the 3800 RPM problem before, and when it would happen the RPM's would either bounce or keep climing just without power. this is acting differnt then that. The aux port on the rear rotor is fine but the front is jammed. but the other day it was working fine even without it. then i washed the engine and it suddenly does what it is doing now. It could be grounding, though i think there is only 1 ground i have not done yet, i will look at that.

Now the cat IS a good idea. I know a lot of junk has got in there when i have been working on it and i ran sea-foam though the engine a little while ago (which has been known to clog cats). That actually could be the problem. problem is that my cat is welded, so i can't just replace it.

The only thing that makes me think it is not the cat is that if i adjust how hard i press on the gas i can get full power back for another few RPM's, then readjust for a few more ect until i get to redline.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so today i decided to run an ECU code test, put the LED's on there and sure enough a code comes up.

Code 09 - Atmospheric Pressure sensor.
DCC1: LSSSS P ... (1 long light ... 4 short lights ... long pause ... repeat)
DCC2: does not light
Fail-safe mode: Maintains constant sea-level command (boost sensor)

Now i live at only 600 - 1000 feet above sea level. So could this be my problem?

The problem seems to be getting worse. it use to start at 5000 - 6000 RPM when it would cut out, then it was 40000 - 5000 now it is 3000 - 4000. But if i drive like granny barely tuching the pedal it will drive almost normal until 5000 or so when it cuts out pretty much no matter what.

go to WOT anytime though and it does nothing. except backfiring and running rough if i hold it too long.

I just filled the ank with gas, so i know that is not a problem.could it be the fuel pump??? it is brand new, i find that kinda hard to belive but at this point i am willing to try anything.



Also, anyone have a good suggestion for where to put a furl cut switch? i can't think of any good place to hide it.


Also, sorry for dragging this thread out so long, i know most of ya'll don't even read it anymore, maybe i should start a phase 2 thread....