Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Does it work yet?

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

lol, didn't even think anyone was even reading this anymore and pretty much forgot about it.

Ok, update time.

So I swpaed the gas tanks between the parts car and mine, i also decided to use the pump from the parts car, i wish i knew what it is but it is working so that is all that matters.

So i then pulled the intake off, sent all 4 injectors out to be cleaned.

Then i pulled the lower intake and then got to work on the aux port sleeves. They were both stuck but the front one was REAL bad. I finally got them out and cleaned them and the holes up with 2 cans of brake clear and 2 hours in 105 degee heat. So now the sleeves turn freely, i put a little synthetic greese on them as well to hopfully help them stay free.

So i then got to work on the shafts that turn the sleeves. The rear one was pretty much ok, so i sprayed it down with brake cleaner and some PB blaster. it now works fine. The front shaft was stuck so bad though that i could barely turn it with vice grips. So i started pulling it out, took a lot of pb blaster and pulling but i almost had it out when the head of the shaft deciede to brake off!

So i then had to go searching for another one. I finally found one and it should be here tomorrow.

I also finally got a fuel cut switch installed and hidden, so that is now done, though with the cleaned injecotrs i should not need it anymore except to make sure someone doesn't steal my car.

Got most of the grounds regrounded so hopfiully that will help as well.

replacing the radiator with my spare while i have the engine bay apart to take care fo that pin hole leak.

Also found that my oil injector nozzels were bad, from the fire i would assume. so i had to replace those as well, they should also be in tomorrow.

THEN i found that my OMP also appears to be bad! i noticed that one of the oil nozzels was lose when i pulled them off. But then i started thinking, if it was that lose, why is there not oil all over the place? So i looked and it appears that the pump was not pumping.

So i also ordered a pump and that should be here tomorrow as well. Hopfully this will fix the oil injection, lucky for me i have been running premix until i swapped the tank and have not driven it since. so i think the engine should be fine.

And thats pretty much where i am sitting now, waiting for those parts to show up and then i will put it back together.

Also waiting for my shocks and springs to get in, after i get the engien running i am going to have some fun with seeing if an NA can do a burn out to get rid of the tires then swap over the 5 lug parts from the parts car.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, i need a little help.

I got my shocks in today and the rears work but the last 3 - 4 inches doesn't have any resistance, it just stops acting like a shock and acts like a spring. Is that normal?

My thoughts is either it is bad, or it is not meant ot work those last few inches since it will never compress that much.

Anyone know?

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

My thoughts would be that if both sides are doing it, that's probably how they were designed. It could be just a bad batch of struts, but it's less likely that they would both be bad at once. I didn't notice the same thing in my Tokico Illuminas, but I didn't pay that much attention. They also have a resistance adjustment on the strut - What brand are they? The Tokico Blues, KYB GR2's, and Monroe's are going to be quite a bit softer than the performance counterparts like the Tokico Illuminas, KYB AGXs, or adjustable Konis

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

They were gabrile. after messing with them some more i think they are old as the hills and are just starting to go bad overall.

So i decided to just return them and i ordered some Tokico blues instead. costs me a little more but i think it will be worth it. we will see though.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

I'm running blues w/ ground controls, its quite an improvement over stock

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Well anything would be an improvemt over what i got. Mine are TOTALLY shot.

nswanberg

Keep us posted. I just spent 3 hours reading this saga. Yeah I know but then I bought an 88 automatic RX7 POS as well.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Shhh...I think he's napping.
Got all tuckered out from that initial burst and needs a bit of rest.


Aww, he's sooo cute when he's sleeping.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Quote:

Originally Posted by clokker

Shhh...I think he's napping.

LOL, i didn't even relize people were still reading this or i would have kept posting more. It seemed like it was 1 or 2 people that were even reading it anymore.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nswanberg

Keep us posted. I just spent 3 hours reading this saga. Yeah I know but then I bought an 88 automatic RX7 POS as well.

Ok, well update then.

The last 2 weeks has not seen anything happen really other then trying to track down the lower intake so i could get another AUX port rod and finding shocks.


So last week i finally found the lower intake and got it in yesterday. Got it cleaned up and installed yesterday just to find out that the front port would not turn. So i have been playing with it and it appears that something it just a tad too long and the sleeve is pushing on the rod which is causing it to bind and thus not turn.

So i am going to pull the intake 1 last time later today and file some of the rod away to see if i can get it to work. If i just losen the bolts to the rod/sleeve spins fine, so it just needs a little taken off.

Along these lines i finally got my injectors cleaned and the PD replaced with a banjo bolt. so Fuel system should be good to go.

I also replaced the oil injectors since the old ones were bad when i tested them. Lucky for me i have been running pre-mix so i don't think anything was hurt. i think i might still run some premix until i know the injecotrs are working.

also pulled the radaitor for more room in the engine bay while working in there, going to replace it with the one from the parts car to fix the pin hole leak mine had.

Got the Fuel pump cut-off switch installed finally, in a good place that i think any thife would have a real hard time finding. Real happy with that.

I also got my shocks in, i ended up returing the Gabriles because they were bad and just got the blue TOKICO and TEIN springs. Will hopfully get those installed when i do the 5 lug swap this weekend if everything goes right.

So basically that is where i am right now. Going to put everything together today and hopfully get it running again. Then fix a few minor problems and hopfully get it ready to pass inspection.

I have a 92 MR2 lined up whenever the guy that owns it gets back in town. So i need to get this car inspected and out of the driveway so the MR2 can go in it.

Will update after i see what happens today

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, got it back together yesterday. Everything seemed to look fine so i tried starting it.

It started fine BUT would not stay running. It ran rough and (this is what really has me confused) if i so much as touched the gas, it dies instantly, nothing else, i touch gas, instant motor stop running.

Doesn't matter how little i press the gas, it moves and it dies. BUT when i start it it revs to 3000rpm like normal fine, rougher then normal but fine. So i thought it might be the TPS, so i unplugged it. Now when i start it, if i press the gas in the first few seconds it is ok, but after that it still dies if i touch the gas.

It is also just running rough, like the mixture is not right or something. The injectors are just cleaned, i just replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pump is working (the one from the parts car, it was running in that car fine so no reason it should not now).

All i messed with since it was last running fine is the intake and AUX ports. The ports are installed and are closed. the intakes are installed right. could a vacume line or eletrical connection i might has missed or crossed do this?

Oh, one more thing, there is some smoke coming from the passanger side of the engine bay after the engine gets warm. i think it is just the RTV i put on the intake gaskets but just thought i would put this out there.

I am pretty much lost, what could cause this? it is either something real small that i just didn't hook up right when reinstalling everything or it is something major and i am calling it quits on this 13b and swaping in a V8.

So any ideas before i go V8 shopping? lol

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, i found the problem, and once agian feel like an idiot.

The AFM was not plugged in. I was finishing up at night and must have forgot that. Hooked it up and back to normal and even better! Dang so much power!

only problem i have with the engine now is 2 things:

1: the idle i even higher now, ~2100rpm, way to high. and i can't for the life of me figure out why, i used RTV on all the gaskets and they were all god. the injectors all have new seals. intake is all sealed up, TB is fully closed. prety sure the BAC is working.

Only thing i can figure out is a vacume hose is connect to the wrong place. this time when i took everything apart i didn't mark everything as well so it is possible i mixed up some hoses. Anyone have a good vacume hose diagram? my hood dosen't have it anymore.

2: smoke coming from the passanger side engine bay, though i am pretty sure this is just the RTV. i will see if it goes away after a little bit or not.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, fixed the idle problem FINALLY!

The sec TB plates were stucka little open and caused the high idle. Now the idle is down where it should be it just jumps around a little bit all the time. Not the TPS but for now i will live with it.

Ok, so now to get it ready for inspection. The exahust smells bad right now so i doubt it will pass. Also, when i am driving and let off the gas all of the sudden i can hear popping from the rear, i think/hope it is the exahust. Which means i have a few things to fix before inspection.

I already tested the air injection valves on the lower intake and they appear to be bad, or a sensor that contorls them is. oh goodiy.

Also, i was looking at why my ECU is showing a bad atmosphic pressure sensor and found that it is not connected at all. But the strange part is i can't even find a connector to connect to it! what is it supposed to be connected to? My parts car also has it disconnected with no connector in sight.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so another update:

I FINALLY PASSED EMMISSIONS!

I tested the first time and failed the HC by just a little bit.

So today i went out and changed the oil, it was NASTY, i had changed it with Pensoil when i first got the car but it was REALLY nasty after virtually no miles and just idling. Wow.

I put in some AMSoil 5w-40 (what was recomended by amsoil for my tempreture). Seemed to help it run a little smoother.

I then replaced the spark plugs, the old ones were also a little dirty from the oil i put in the rotors when it was flooding.

Then i retarded the timing about a 1/4 turn of the CAS. went to test it again and it passed with very good numbers actually.

So if your HC is too high, retard your timing and it WILL bring it down.

So now I am going to start swaping over the 5 lug part from the parts car and the power steering rack as well. As well as replace my suspension and brakes while i am in there to get the car road ready.

My radaiator is leaking so i am going to have ot fix.replace that as well. I also found a leak on my gas tank when i was under the car. I must have for got to hook something up when i swaped the tanks. Going to have to look at that as well.

But at least i get to drive it now!

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

So with the RX7 finally inspected and running and drivable i have started fixing some of the smaller things.

Today i took care of the AC. And i got it running now at 35 degrees!!! Want to know how? Read:

So my old R12 Freon had leaked out while the car sat for 4 years. So i went to Pepboys and bought:

NON-GM r134a retrofit kit = $9.99

R134a Hose and valve (could have bought a kit with it all together it was cheaper in my case not too) = $9.99

2 cans of Arctic Freeze ULTRA SYNTHETIC 134a = 17.99 each (read on)

I then went to AutoZone and rented an AC vacuum machine for FREE.


So i went home and installed the retrofit kit. I then hooked up the vacuum to the system and let it run for 45mins. After that i disconnected the quick disconnect to make sure the vacuum stayed in the system.

I then hooked up the cans of r134 and added then while the vacuum stayed in the system so it sucked the r134 into the system. I put in the first can and then started the car and turned on the AC.

It then sucked the rest of the r134 out of the can. So i hooked up the other can and put that in as well. I then put a gauge on the system to see the pressure and it was right on the button.

So i took it for a drive to see what kind of temps i could get, and to my amazement after just a little driving I was getting 35 degrees!! and it was 95+ outside today as well (we had some rain so it cooled down from the 105 it has been).

So i am VERY happy with the ac now. And i have to say that i think the synthetic r134 is the reason for the cool temps. So much so that i am thinking about vacuuming the AC on my truck and putting this R134 in it as well.

It is WELL worth the extra cost for the synthetic!



The only problem i found with the AC is that when the compressor is on the engine doesn't want to idle and will die at stop signs. quite annoying and dangerous. Anyone know why this could be?

A few other things I have noticed since actually driving the car.

The idle now that it is correct seems a little rough, is that normal for rotarys?

Power seems to drop off at high RPM’s, I don’t think my AUX ports are opening even though they are freed up. I tested them and it appears that then need 10 – 20 psi to open, which I am guessing they are not getting from the exhaust. How much pressure does the airpump give off? I might just run them off it.

So that’s the update for today, in what is really my blog I guess. lol

Wigbolt

Texas Ace, great thread. I started reading this a couple of days ago, 30-40 minutes a day. I looked forward to coming home and reading more. I work too many hours. I kept sweating bullets, every time you ran into problems. Felt as if I had rebuilt the car, including wiping my brow. Glad to hear that you got it inspected, and the air working. Where did you get the OMP, I recently had to replace mine, and could not find an inexpensive one. Plus I was putting an new engine in and did not want to chance a used one.
Also what are you going to do with the MR2? Or is this your hobby rebuilding cars and then selling them?
Anyway congratulations on breathing life into the 7. Really enjoyed reading your posts! I'll keep watching for more posts.

unek87

Keep It Up Homie BEEN ReadING Also . Just Wanted To Show Some Texas Love .

nswanberg

Let us know how long your RX7 holds its refrigerant charge. I would be surprised if you don't have some major component or hose leaks. If not then their might be hope for the AC on my POS. Of course I already know it needs a new compressor.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

This is getting annoying not getting e-mails about these replies... lol

LOL, glad to know that people are both enjoying and still reading this thread. I try to write in the best way to make give good info and yet keep it from being boring, good to know i have susceeded to some degree!

As for the OMP, i got it from a gut i know in PA. He Had an S4 parts car and has got me a few other things as well. some of these parts you can get at pepboys and some from the dealer but some can only be had used.

with anthing over a few bucks i have a list of numbers i call and price check. then go with the cheapest.

I am getting the MR2 mainly because i have always loved those cars and found it for $1000 (that is dirt cheap for one with as good of a body as this one). In the long run it will depend on how i like it as to what i do with it. I might sell it, i might mod it. No idea yet.

And yes, buying cars, working on them and then selling them is a hoobby of mine that keeps me out of trouble and i just like it. Though so far i have done more buying then selling lol. there are a few cars that i get and then keep around for awhile (or in the case of my 4runner forever).

I need some, just spent a few hours on the side of the highway with a flat tire in the texas heat, fun fun, story coming below.

Well so far the AC is working great, i let a little pressure out of the system since i think i had it a tad overcharged but otherwise it is working perfect. i also got it to idle when the AC is on, i had forgot to plug my BAC back in when putting everything back together.

Story tonight at 7:00 lol

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, so a little more drama unfolded today. Was out looking to see if my radaitor could be fixed or if i had to get a new one.

And found that i am stuck, they can't fix it on the top with the plastic:



So i am now going to have to get a new one. I went by the rotary shop that i bought the car from and he pointed me towards a place i can get them for $100. so we willl see, dang broke at this point.

Also was wanting to get a test pipe made for the car but found it is either cat or no cat, no one i ca find can make a test pipe i can remove and put back on. will have to figure this out later. for now just leaving the exahust stock.

So, on the way back home I suddenly start feeling a shake in the car, dosen't take me long to realize i have a flat tire. So i pull over and luck out with a wide shulder.

THEN realize that i don't have ANY tools or even a spare tire with me. It had all been removed from the car when i was cleaning it and i never got arounf to puttting them back. So i had to call up a friend to go to my house and find all the stuff to change the tire. But finally got it all changed and back home safe and sound. Was some fun out in the heat for a few hours though!

here is the hole i had, a real blowout:




Ok, so you think that is it for today right? Wrong.

First something good: I figured out why the car would not idle with the AC on, the BAC vavle had come disconnected at some point. Plugged it back in and works perfect!

Now the bad news:

So i can now say that the power loss i have been feeling is real. and it is getting worse. i can feel it all along the power band but when i first was driving it there is a stop sign near my house. I used to be able to turn at that sign and after i had it fully in gear stomp on the gas and the rear end would "drift" around the corner. Easy as pie.

Now i can't do it no matter how hard i try. plus a few other things that tell me i really have lost power.

I took it by the Rotary shop and the owner looked at it and said it looks like it is running fine. So it is nothing major major but it is something, what gets me is that it is getting worse.

He did say that he thinks the TPS might be bad/going bad. I am going to swap it back out with my parts car TPS and see if it helps anything. i doubt it would effect it this bad though.

I also don't know if maybe the timing is off some, i checked it and it showed right but he said i might need to advance it a little.

past that i don't have a clue where to go from here. we will see, i know if i can't get the power back up to normal i am selling this car for sure. Sell it while it is running and i can make back at least what i have put into it. Then use the $$$ for a TII ;-)

We will see though, i am going to mess with the TPS and timing this week.

Stay tuned......

chwkrx7

how big is that hole in your rad? just a crack? if it is, i would try using some plastic epoxy. can be had at walmart or such places... i don't know what you have all the way down there. lol. anyways.... on s5's the T-stat housing is made out of the same plastic. mine was cracked and i used the plastic epoxy to fix it. it didn't LOOK the greatest, but it held for 5 months, and was still holding when i put a new housing on.... just a thought

it's called "Plastic Weld".... it's a two-part epoxy for plastics

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

That is actually an idea i had thought of breifly but figured that the heat and pressure would just pop it off anyways. At this point it is just a small crack. I only have to fill up about once a day, funny thing is it only seems ot leak when the car is parked not whiel running.

I just might do that until i can afford a new one. good to know that at least it worked for you, what did you use?

NCross

iTrader: (18)

Just try some JB plastic weld or something on that radiator crack and spread a little silicone over it for weather protection. Radiators can be found used almost for free.

If it's an LSD it will say "limited slip differential" stamped on it I believe.

You may want to pull your plugs and injectors and clean them and the lines out. Looks like that tank was filled with varnished gasoline. That will cause some major power loss if it spread through the whole system.

Try running Castrol 20w50 year round. I've been doing it for years and it's great.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I think i saw some of that JB weld plastic stuff, i will try that.

I looked on the diff and could not find anyplace that said anything at all, any idea where to look?

Plugs, wires, injectors, fuel lines, fuel filter, you name it, it is brand new/cleaned out. the ENTIRE fuel system has been replaced, even the tank.

I am using some 15w-40 AMSoil right now, it seems to be working and it is brand new but i will keep that in mind for next change.

88_vert

nice projecttt.