Testing Fuel injectors
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
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From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
More info please
Please refrain from thread bumping technical threads or at least add new info so people can help you with your problem. Also, vehicle info will help get knowledgeable people snooping around. i.e. model year, turbo/NA, injector model. What specifically are you testing for? Firing? Flow rate? Leaking? Have you done the procedures outlined in the FSM? It is available online and links are in the FAQ at the top of the section.
You can attach a wire to each of the terminals on the injector. Then put one wire to the batt neg and MOMENTARILY put the other wire to the batt positive terminal. The injector should click when you do that.
Not worth doing since if you ohm out one injector terminal to the other and get a reading of 2-3 ohms on a early car or 12-14 ohms on a later car, then things going to work.
MOMENTARILY is for a split second. If the wires are connected to the batt for tooo long a period the coil in the injector will go **** up. How long???? Got me. I'd say if you left it on for five minutes it would toast the injector.
Not worth doing since if you ohm out one injector terminal to the other and get a reading of 2-3 ohms on a early car or 12-14 ohms on a later car, then things going to work.
MOMENTARILY is for a split second. If the wires are connected to the batt for tooo long a period the coil in the injector will go **** up. How long???? Got me. I'd say if you left it on for five minutes it would toast the injector.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
You can attach a wire to each of the terminals on the injector. Then put one wire to the batt neg and MOMENTARILY put the other wire to the batt positive terminal. The injector should click when you do that.
Not worth doing since if you ohm out one injector terminal to the other and get a reading of 2-3 ohms on a early car or 12-14 ohms on a later car, then things going to work.
MOMENTARILY is for a split second. If the wires are connected to the batt for tooo long a period the coil in the injector will go **** up. How long???? Got me. I'd say if you left it on for five minutes it would toast the injector.
Not worth doing since if you ohm out one injector terminal to the other and get a reading of 2-3 ohms on a early car or 12-14 ohms on a later car, then things going to work.
MOMENTARILY is for a split second. If the wires are connected to the batt for tooo long a period the coil in the injector will go **** up. How long???? Got me. I'd say if you left it on for five minutes it would toast the injector.
Well.......ok then. Tie 'em to a fuel rail like the man said in the second response to your query. Except crank the engine over and watch them pulse. I'd recommmend disconnecting the coils first or remove the plug wires. But you said you didn't want to take the engine apart, soooooo that's out.
Or send 'em out to some fuel injector cleaing outfit.
Or tee 'em into the fuel feed line with the injector plugged into the end of the line(remember, I said TEE). Then with the fuel pump running (that'll give you approx 39psi in the line) apply a gnd and power to the injector. Aim the injector into a cup that measures cc's and leave the power on for 15 seconds. The amount should be close to the figures in the FSM, Fuel and Emissions Section. It won't pulse, it'll just stay wide open.
Heck, it all comes down to what your trying to prove/disprove.
Or you can send them to me and I'll send some of them back to you.
Or send 'em out to some fuel injector cleaing outfit.
Or tee 'em into the fuel feed line with the injector plugged into the end of the line(remember, I said TEE). Then with the fuel pump running (that'll give you approx 39psi in the line) apply a gnd and power to the injector. Aim the injector into a cup that measures cc's and leave the power on for 15 seconds. The amount should be close to the figures in the FSM, Fuel and Emissions Section. It won't pulse, it'll just stay wide open.
Heck, it all comes down to what your trying to prove/disprove.
Or you can send them to me and I'll send some of them back to you.
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well, while they are already out...
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html
it's cheap enough to get them tested
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html
it's cheap enough to get them tested
You can attach a wire to each of the terminals on the injector. Then put one wire to the batt neg and MOMENTARILY put the other wire to the batt positive terminal. The injector should click when you do that.
Not worth doing since if you ohm out one injector terminal to the other and get a reading of 2-3 ohms on a early car or 12-14 ohms on a later car, then things going to work.
MOMENTARILY is for a split second. If the wires are connected to the batt for tooo long a period the coil in the injector will go **** up. How long???? Got me. I'd say if you left it on for five minutes it would toast the injector.
Not worth doing since if you ohm out one injector terminal to the other and get a reading of 2-3 ohms on a early car or 12-14 ohms on a later car, then things going to work.
MOMENTARILY is for a split second. If the wires are connected to the batt for tooo long a period the coil in the injector will go **** up. How long???? Got me. I'd say if you left it on for five minutes it would toast the injector.
thanks for the responses. it is a 87 na to 13bt that i picked up and the car misfires horribly when i pull the spark plugs out to check they are black. and the plugs are brand new. I have a set of brown injectors and was going to check and see if they were good before i took the time to put them in.
i will post a pic sometime today of the plugs... wont be able to test the injectors till later in the week though... i have a full time and two part time jobs. thanx for all the help
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