This started within the last year. The car absolutely refuses to stay at one speed. Its a decent ride so long as you are coasting or accelerating.

If you try to maintain a costant speed (at a lowish rpm 2-3k), the entire car get jerked around, and you hear some part of the driveline smacking he body (somewhere) on the car. I'm unsure if its the engine mounts "bottoming out" or if its the ujoints getting torqued all which way, but its aweful sounding and makes the car jerk. Not very comfortable.

Coincidentaly, I can maintain street speeds if I stay in second gear... (4-5 rpm though), which leads me to beleive its a tps issue.

When I had the tranny out last year, I remember the almost hit the firewall because it leaned so far back.

Are these possible symptoms of broken engine mounts?

 

Broken mounts would not cause the engine to run like that...
It sounds like the engine is "lean surging", and I would worry about that over the broken mounts...


-Ted

 

Yes, that is very definitely lean surge.

It is not caused by the engine or tranny mounts, but left unchecked it WILL kill them.

 

so.. lean surge is?

 

Basically, in simple terms, lean surging is caused by the engine not getting enough fuel or constant flow of fuel at a cruising speed/throttle position and it causes the engine to "buck" or "surge". I know my carb motor did this until I re-jetted the carb...dont really know a bout efi tho sorry I would say go over your fuel system as a basic starting point. Sorry I couldnt be of more help.

 

My first guess would be O2 sensor, then TPS.

 

Pulled codes:

15 O2 Sensor
17 Feedback System (related to 15)

Caused by emisions removal:
25 Sol valve
30 Sol Valve split air
31 Sol relief
32 Sol switch
33 sol port air

38 sol valve accel warmup

1) Does this pinpoint O2 causing that problem?
2) I reinstalled a complete TB (used to have tb mod), I hooked everything back up, I thought. WTF on the warmup solenoid, where is it? Rather, what color sticker was that solenoid, or was it not even on the rats nest?



Oh, and where can I find a mildly priced o2 sensor?

Also, the car has hot start/flooding issues. Starts great unless I drive it for 15 minutes, park in the sun, and then try to start 5-30 minutes later. About 30 cranks later I can usually get it started...

Original fuel injectors, getting them cleaned isn't an option without getting a second set, as this is a daily driver... And finding 460cc's is a pita

 

i have the same problem, but i dont hear any clunking, just a little jerking when i accelerate in the low RMP range, but it seems after a while of driving it gets less and less until i dont even really notice it anymore.

 

haha.. ahh yeah.

I'm replacing the MAF tonight. It was causing problems after I drove in a lake.

 

Please keep us posted when you find out the cause of the problem.

Good luck.

 

can you engine brake at all?

 

ya know mines kinda doing the same thing... starts fine when cold but has a bitch of a time idleing it's self when warm... but after about 15 min of driving it idles fine unless turned off than restarted.. I even let it cool down (i need a turbo timer) before shutting it off.... never floods though... and the lower rpms tend to stuter a little... kinda thought it was just getting too much gas and kinda backfireing... but it's smooth as a babys but when accelerating. I think it might be the tps... hoping it's not injectors. cause I'm afraid of lean conditions... blew my old 7 leaning out.

 

Yes, easily.

 

I swapped the AFM out last night, I'd been suspecting the current one for awhile. That did help a bit. I still get the CEL Light Exactly at 10 seconds when I hold the throttle in one place at cruise. couple seconds after the CEL light, and the jerking starts comming about.

I'm guessing its hte O2 issue.

 

Have you checked to see what the code is after replacing the AFM? And did you reset the ECU after replacing it?

 

I replaced the AFM last night, the car is running a bit better after that, but heres the good part.

I went home today to find the O2 Sensor had melted and ground shorted. Replaced the wire, and the CEL light is staying off. So its not getting that anymore.

The car is easier to drive, but now has a nasty stumble on rpms, and still hesitates sometimes. Though I"m not getting the massive jerking as much (once a drive, and I can keep a constant velocity).

I also reset the TPS today, not sure if it helped any, but done.

 

Did you disconnect/re-connect the battery after repairing the O2 wire? You have to, in order to reset the ECU. If that still doesn't help, then replace the O2 sensor because I firmly believe that it's solely responsible for your problem.

 

I'll do just that. Thanks!

 

well i dont have any problems with idle, and the jerking feels more like the u joint problem, so i think im wrong

 

Update:

Solid Engine mounts. Stock mounts were torn in half, both of them.
Rebuilt motor, replaced (on the third now) AFM.


Still bucks at sometimes, nothing nearly severe as it used to be.