slitherz90gxl

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...oolantfix.html

I've just got a few quick questions
I can't find the block weld it calls for but I found this K&W Permanent Mettallic Block Weld and saw a few posts here on the forum that said it works better because the copper shavings harm the water pump.
True or false ?

Also; this is a noob question but I need to know for sure...
Step 1: Clean the heck out of the cooling system - drain the radiator, fill with water and degreaser, run the motor until warm.

Step 2: Repeat 5 or 6 more times.

Do you clean the cooling system and run the motor with the drain plug out of the radiator and with the plug out of the engine block or just the radiator or just the block plug ?

Step 3: Drain the radiator, fill with water only and run the motor until warm.
Do you leave a drain plug (rad or engine) off so that the water runs out or no ?

Step 5: When you are sure that the cooling system is very clean inside, refill with water plus two cans of Block Weld (no anti-freeze). Run the motor until warm (about 30 minutes). This hardens the Block Weld where the water is leaking into the motor. Do not rev the motor into high RPM during this process!

On this step do you leave one of the plugs off or not ?? I think you leave them in because you've got to run it for 30 minutes.

I know that these questions are going to make me look stupid; really stupid but I'd rather get flamed than screw something up.

Brodie121

iTrader: (8)

First, are you absolutely sure you don't wanna rebuild? Because this fix makes it a pain in the *** when it comes time to rebuild as it clogs stuff up and leaves deposits. How badly are the seals blown?

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

*hands flame suit over* .........gl

TwEaK

slitherz90gxl

I want to rebuild but I'm not going to have the money anytime soon.
Planned on buying a keg to throw in to last me until I could rebuild it but I keep on having to give my money away for random things. The seals are bad; I don't expect that good of results but I figure for 20 or 30 dollars why not try it and see what happens.

So; I'm just trying to make sure I've got the procedure down before I start doing it.

Thanks I'm sure I'll need it soon enough.

Brodie121

iTrader: (8)

Im just thinking that you may not have the greatest results if they are completely gone. But as you said its worth a try. I have not personally done this fix, but someones bound to chime in and give you a hand.

slitherz90gxl

Yeah; I'm hoping someone can answer my questions.
I have one more to throw in too...
Is hard to remove enough of the black cover under the engine so you can get to the radiator drain plug easier ?
The way it is set-up right now I've got a 2inch hole to stick my screwdriver through and trying to get the plug back in is a pita.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the copper seal stuff does hurt the water pump if you plan on leaving it in, for best results you can leave the block seal in for temporary fixes but you will kill the water pump and probably need a new heater core as well.

every block seal seals differently so i can't judge how well that stuff will work on yours. to clean the system it just has to be completely free of coolant, the block seal is made to be mixed with only water and is really supposed to be taken out after the seal is fixed but in rotaries they can break the seal rather easily which is why you can leave the block seal in but remember that water freezes, coolant takes alot more cold to freeze and winter is coming up.

slitherz90gxl

I bought the K&W seal that I read won't hurt the water pump.
Also reading your post it sounds like I can only use water in the engine after I do this? After the block seal settles and washes out what isn't used I can use a little antifreeze right?

Also; you seem to know your stuff and this part of the instructions have had be confused for a while; hence all the drain plug questions.
"Don't forget to pull the fuse when you turn the motor over to push out the water prior to each start up. " Do you need a plug off to push the water off or ????
I'm sure I sound extremely stupid.
Thanks for any help.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Um, just an FYI a guy did this mod and opened the engine about a year later and found no deposits or anything of the sort...You can find the post if you search the topic thoroughly enough.

Brodie121

iTrader: (8)

Im just going by what ive heard.

EnjoiPugs

^^One guy might have found those results, but many many people have reported otherwise. I put the alumaseal in my rx7 before I did the rebuild. It was in a lot of little places, the alumaseal was fairly easy to get out, but block weld in those spots? Think about it man, you are putting weld compound in your sports cars cooling system. Just say that a couple times out loud for me before you do it to see if you still want to.

And to answer your question, the product is assuming you have a block leak so there is fluid in your chambers. After you perform the fix the car will be hard to start until you get the fluids out. In order to do that you must remove the EGI fuse and turn the key a few times for 10 seconds or so.

slitherz90gxl

Rofl@me
I went through the whole thing and finally put the block seal and water in; now the car won't start up.
It is acting flooded; drained the battery trying to crank with egi fuse out.
So; waiting for someone to come jump me while I try and figure out where I went wrong.

Brodie121

iTrader: (8)

Pull plugs clean, clean them, put some oil in the spark plugs holes to try and get the compression back up. If it is flooded you should be able to tell by the plugs, theyll have fuel on them. Mine flooded putting it away for the winter, so im gonna have to pull it out of the garage before i do this, It does make LOTS of smoke. Neighbors may think your house is on fire...

slitherz90gxl

They've got tons of fuel on them; I never heard of putting oil in the spark plug holes. I'll probably try that when I get off work.
I just hope that block seal doesn't f- up since I didn't get the car started after I put it in.
I'll probably kill myself.

Brodie121

iTrader: (8)

When the car floods badly it washes all the oil off the sealing surfaces causing a loss of compression, the oil seals it up again and lets you get compression to start.

slitherz90gxl

So how do you go about putting it in the spark plug holes ? Just rubbing it in there or squirting it out a squeeze bottle ?
I'm not joking; I really don't like to do things wrong.
My hands bleed way to much from my lack of mechanical ability. haha.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you just can't run coolant in the engine while doing the block seal treatment, you can run coolant in the engine after that.

Brodie121

iTrader: (8)

I use a large syringe

hiroichi1515

iTrader: (17)

i just finished doing the same thing. My coolant seal was real bad. The top radiator hose would be completely pressurized just from attempting to crank the motor. I tried the K&W block seal (block weld) , because I couldn't find the crc stuff. It completely sucked and showed no improvement whatsoever. Just managed to kill my water pump and turn my engine bay to ****. I found an old thread about some stuff called irontite and i gave that a shot. That stuff fixed my problem in about 600 miles. Im at about 2000 so far since the fix and its still running strong. The motor is a 6 port turbo. Only 5lbs but no smoke whatsoever even in boost a high rpm. I still have to add water ever now and then but not every 15 mins like before. I swear by itontite. It does work miracles.

Post I read : http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=49661

Irontite Site : http://www.irontite.com/

Good Luck

slitherz90gxl

Okay thanks for all the help guys.
I'll let you know what happens tmrw.
I have a feeling that **** probably settled in my cooling system and clogged it.
I'm not for sure if it actually works that way; but lol.
It would be funny.
I took my plugs out and I'm letting them dry out (COVERED in gas.)
Going to squirt oil in tmrw I guess.
Do you just squirt a little in each hole before starting it ?
Or do you have to let it sit for awhile ?

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much squirt a **** ton in there. How much you put in it will determine how much it will smoke when it starts. But usually, over a table spoon in each chamber works like a charm every time. Crank it as soon as you can after you put the oil in. It's not like you have to pour the oil in and then sprint to the drivers seat to crank it. Just dump some in, put the plugs back in, wires on and try and crank.

I've seen this trick used to unlock and start siezed 2-4yr old motors. They may only run on 1 rotor, but they 99% guarenteed start within the first 5-10 seconds of cranking.

After you do the trick, let the car run for a minute or two, until the smoke clears. If the car is misfiring and having trouble rev'ing, the plugs are probably dirty from the oil. Pull em and clean them and the car should run good again. I actually did the block seal tricks to a friends motor that was starting to smoke and overheat. The motor stopped overheating and he was able to get another 6-8 months out of driving out of the motor before it dropped a hard seal.