ok so i finished porting my tb and doing the tb mod a few days ago, but im lazy and work 10 hours a day PLUS 3 hours of comunity service.

But here's the results after AWS Removal, Charcoal Canister Removal, BACV Bypass, Cruise Control Removal, TB Mod, TB Port, and Brake Master Cylinder installation (feel to post opinions, but its all absed on my perception)

After immediately bolting everything up had a weird idle condition that i figured was the TPS problem due to it being unset. So i set it and the problem stayed around. Eventually on a random idea i kinked the full hose i used to bypass the AWS, BAM perfect. So i cut the hose and made 2 block offs.

So fixed that glitch, now the car idles PERFECTLY SMOOTH at 750rpms, yes folks the stock setting is perfect ask vosko or frestyle or fikse, they saw it today in person. This is whether starting cold or starting warm both in this single digit temperature weather.

The car is running extremely rich due to the o2 sensor wire snapping in half, damn fragile harness, so unfortunately the butt dyno results will probably change, obviously for the better i figure.

Anyway it seems to have more power down low, i used to be able to get a short break of the tires on a 1st->2nd shift...i now do full burnouts in 2nd if i dont control it. The car gets up to high rpms and high speeds very quickly.

The bad side, it SEEMS my days of making giant fireballs are over, i do still shoot fire but only ginormous short shotgun blasts of flame, this i think is because my tps is FINALLY set and because the computer is confused without an o2 sensor, ill be fixing this shortly (haltech harness wooo) and we'll see the results after that. But there is a bright side, the car now shoots flames on shifting which never happened before.

now a short announcement to mr. ReTED:

so what were you saying about my car not ever being able to idle at 750rpms, the stock level, after doing the port and mod? would you like video perhaps to astound you further?

now the fun part, pics:







those arent the completed pics, damn battery died, that was like stage 4 of 5, last go round i resanded everything going from a 220 -> 620 (think 620, it was 6?? something) grit by hand and blended the ported walls into the stock "plate housing" (the mirror polished part, cant think of its real name so i made one up )

enjoy, and please no dashpot talk cause as we decided it's a stalemate.

kevin.

 

nice, looks good to me, but i'm no expert lol

 

i need Before pics.......so I can compare... Vid would be nice too

 

go to my original topic that got locked, ill go look for the link.

kevin.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=261529

there ya go pics are of it after stage 1 grinding, and i think the first pic (going on memory didnt check the topic) is of the stock look.

kevin.

 

That's pretty cool.

On your original thread I thought that was the port Job...

This looks pretty nice. Good work.

LOL I just made the 2nd center picture my desktop background cause the green field I got is boring.

 

ok, now I can say damn...good job, How much did you port? aproximately... if it is even possible to calculate?

 

umm, a lot? honestly i dont know how much but basically as much as i could without having to fear breaking a hole through the tb, i was relatively conservative with it i think. but the "point" is about halfway into the TB whereas the stock "point" is flush with the top of the tb.

kevin.

 

Great job man. I'll probably see you around on the streets someday I drive through B.C./North Jersey alot.

 

bergen county you mean by BC? i live right on the border of bergen and passaic basically.

you go to the hooters meets over by willowbrook?

kevin.

 

my website server seems to be down temporarily, sorry for delay. itll be back up shortly.

kevin.

 

Please reread what I posted earlier in the other thread.
I did NOT say it would NEVER idle.

I was talking about the dashpot being able to recover idle on decel, especially when the engine isn't fully warmed up and the ECU is still using the water thermo sensor for significant fuel correction.  My car does this (but I do have intake leaks), and I have had numerous emails (due to the web page) that complained about unable to hold idle at stock RPM levels (i.e. 750RPM).

Now, it is entirely possible that you have a totally sealed intake tract and all the engine components are working in your favor.  If you read another thread about parts components working supposedly in an impossible manner, then you'd understand what I'm trying to say.  Maybe I need to restate my positions as:

Your modification will not work reliable for most owners.

I cannot help but notice you had TPS problems...

Before the other thread had closed, I had written down an extensive reply which was not able to slide under the thread being closed.


The throttle body is a mechanical restriction device that uses a mechanical linkage to actuate it's throttle plate restrictions.  On the TB, there is a single primary throttle plate and a pair of secondary throttle plates.  On totally stock TB's, there is also auxiliary set of plates that "back" the secondary throttle plate pair; these are mechanically damped to open progressively.  By opening the secondaries progressively (especially at very low RPM's), you minimize the abrupt disruption of intake velocity.  If you just slam the (secondary) throttle plates open, intake velocity is suddenly dropped and engine hesitation is your reward.  The throttle body mod eliminates these auxiliary plates, which requires you to watch your throttle inputs at very low RPM's.  The rear dashpot just damps the abrupt throttle closing when you suddenly lift off the throttle.  It does not affect the function of the throttle plates EXCEPT at the very 5% of it's travel - so it's safe to say this dashpot does NOT affect the function of the throttle body performance, period.  Removing this dashpot does not affect performance, ergo, why bother removing it?  It adds maybe a few tenths of a pound to the entire vehicle, and I doubt you're a good enough drive to take advantage of this weight reduction.  This dashpot does improve daily driveability, as it keeps the engine from dying from heavy decel.  Talking about decel...  The ECU cuts all fuel on decel down to 1,200RPM.  So, there is no way you can induce fireballs when the engine is in the middle of decel as long as ALL ENGINE COMPONENTS ARE INTACT AND WORKING.  This includes most of the emissions systems, as the ACV cluster has an anti back-fire valve integrated into it that is supposed to mimize such occurances.  Having the stock cat and air pump also help minimize backfiring; having any of those components missing cannot guarantee against backfires.  As for the TPS problem I mentioned earlier...  It's VERY easy to bump the TPS when messing around with the TB.  Bumping the TPS just slightly can induce popping in the exhaust during throttle lift-off - other members can attest to that.  You didn't explicitly state if you have your stock emission intact, nor if the ACV is still there...


-Ted

 

yeah BC = Bergen County and no I didn't go to the hooters meet.. musta been before I joined the forum. I'll be there next time though.. I just hope my car will be too.. she feeling kinda sick lately.

 

lets see how fast you guys can close this one down too.

 

ReTED:

i had TPS problems due to the fact that before the mod i never HAD my tps set, aka no screw.

after i set it i had no tps problems, read closer, it was ni fact due to my AWS bypass instead of blocking it off i connected it causing a constantly fluctuating idle. i have had NO TB related troubles. and my car falls to 750rpms perfectly even after hard acceleration with quick throttle release.

kevin.

 

Strictly speaking, the TB isn't ported at all. A "ported" TB is one that's had the throttle and shaft removed, the bore enlarged, and the throttle replaced with a larger one. I've never actually seen this done to a Mazda 3-barrell TB, but it's a pretty common practice.

The point of what Kevin's done is to remove the excess metal that used to support the #2 secondary throttles. This creates a freer path for the air as it enters the bores. If you look into the TB with the hose connection still bolted onto the front you can see what I mean. Grinding the edges of the bores to a knife edge also reduces turbulence as the air enters the bores.

Kevin, that looks like good work. It'd look even better in focus...

 

blame it on the camera suposively "autofocus" i can sit there for hours holding it perfectly still and it wont focus correctly.

kevin.

 

good work kevin. props

 

Actually, if the angle of attack of the air is not correct, it could promote turbulence.....The intake to the throttle body is at an angle (45 degrees routed to 0 degrees??)
Speaking of which, could be the reason rear rotors seem to go out before the front rotors.
I'm not so sure if this is the best "porting" solution.
I'm searching for more information.

 

Slacker: Found anything?

 

i dont understand how its allowing enough airflow to notice a difference in power when you your restriction is the same before (tb elbow) and after (uim) the TB?

 

I personally am porting everything after the TB elbow too.

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If I had a machine that could do it, I would enlarge the throttle holes and increase the size of the plates, but I do not have the tools to acurately preform this task.

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In fact, I belive the most gains could be made from removing ALL of the throttles, porting the body so that it is a smooth, large transition into the UIM, and putting an 80mm+ throttle body in front of it. But this would take more time and effort then I'm willing to invest for the nominal gains on my daily driver :-p Especially when it comes to adapting the TPS/TPS signal!