TB MOD 3 part Question
#1
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TB MOD 3 part Question
I tried to search on this and I couldnt really find what I was looking for.
1. Is there really such a big change that its worth hesitation on lower RPM's
2. Is there a way to do only part of the mod (elimination of the coolant under the mani)?
3. Do you think leaving the first set of shutters,but modifying them some way would give you more performance with less chance of hesitation? Cut or drill holes in the first set maybe?
Lots of questions, but hope someone can help...thanks!
1. Is there really such a big change that its worth hesitation on lower RPM's
2. Is there a way to do only part of the mod (elimination of the coolant under the mani)?
3. Do you think leaving the first set of shutters,but modifying them some way would give you more performance with less chance of hesitation? Cut or drill holes in the first set maybe?
Lots of questions, but hope someone can help...thanks!
#2
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Originally Posted by rhythmfunk
1. Is there really such a big change that its worth hesitation on lower RPM's
2. Is there a way to do only part of the mod (elimination of the coolant under the mani)?
3. Do you think leaving the first set of shutters,but modifying them some way would give you more performance with less chance of hesitation?
#3
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I personally, did not notice any hesitation whatsoever blipping the throttle to the floor with my TB mod.
However, the thermowax is EXTREMLEY important for cold start. I would HIGHLY suggest that you keep it. My ******* car would stall everytime I let my foot off the gas when the engine was cold. Sitting there and reving the engine till warm was ******* retarded, especially in cold assed-canada.
Anyone who then tells you that this "charges" the intake with warm air becuase of the heat is right, but it won't affect performance. If anything, it would heat it up a degree, thats about it. Also, the BAC valve needs the temperature of the coolant to operate properly. So if you take out the thermowax (bad idea) then at least leave the coolant line to the BAC valve. If you don't the valve will stay open slightly, causing an even higher idle, that will never go away becuase of no coolant running through it.
However, the thermowax is EXTREMLEY important for cold start. I would HIGHLY suggest that you keep it. My ******* car would stall everytime I let my foot off the gas when the engine was cold. Sitting there and reving the engine till warm was ******* retarded, especially in cold assed-canada.
Anyone who then tells you that this "charges" the intake with warm air becuase of the heat is right, but it won't affect performance. If anything, it would heat it up a degree, thats about it. Also, the BAC valve needs the temperature of the coolant to operate properly. So if you take out the thermowax (bad idea) then at least leave the coolant line to the BAC valve. If you don't the valve will stay open slightly, causing an even higher idle, that will never go away becuase of no coolant running through it.
#4
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
I personally, did not notice any hesitation whatsoever blipping the throttle to the floor with my TB mod.
Of course this has all been discussed before at great length...
#5
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
However, the thermowax is EXTREMLEY important for cold start. I would HIGHLY suggest that you keep it. My ******* car would stall everytime I let my foot off the gas when the engine was cold. Sitting there and reving the engine till warm was ******* retarded, especially in cold assed-canada.
It's most likely an intake vacuum leak, misadjusted TPS, misadjusted dashpot, or misadjusted throttle plates.
Any of those mentioned will cause it to stall when it's cold.
-Ted
#6
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RETed, so If I live in California where it doesnt really get too cold, maybe 60's on winter...I shouldnt have a problem with removing the thermal wax?
I appreciate all the feedback guys!
I appreciate all the feedback guys!
#7
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Originally Posted by rhythmfunk
RETed, so If I live in California where it doesnt really get too cold, maybe 60's on winter...I shouldnt have a problem with removing the thermal wax?
I appreciate all the feedback guys!
I appreciate all the feedback guys!
That's because you have an NA. The whole issue with the hesitation is only a problem with Turbos, most likely because of the longer intake tract.
I learn something everyday from you two
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#9
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Karack,
You ever come into Roseville? I use to live up in Plumas Lake...just before Marysville. I'm still putting my motor together so my cars not on the road, but it should be within a month or so. I'm trying to get some people together with 7's in or around my area.
You ever come into Roseville? I use to live up in Plumas Lake...just before Marysville. I'm still putting my motor together so my cars not on the road, but it should be within a month or so. I'm trying to get some people together with 7's in or around my area.
#10
Sharp Claws
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check the west section, we have monthly meets in sactown somewhere or another so hopefully you can make it when your car is up and running. this month we will be meeting at sevenstock though so the next meet will be in november.
https://www.rx7club.com/west-rx-7-forum-193/norcal-7s-september-meeting-456017/
(one of many examples of our post whoring skill threads, some of my work is posted in other monthly meet threads.)
unfortunately my services aren't free because i am working on getting the shop off the ground and getting cutomers in the door. i do give free advice and technical assistance though for those who do work on cars themselves though.
https://www.rx7club.com/west-rx-7-forum-193/norcal-7s-september-meeting-456017/
(one of many examples of our post whoring skill threads, some of my work is posted in other monthly meet threads.)
unfortunately my services aren't free because i am working on getting the shop off the ground and getting cutomers in the door. i do give free advice and technical assistance though for those who do work on cars themselves though.
#12
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Originally Posted by Karack
...i don't use the thermowax, i just raised the idle just above 1k...
#13
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my idle raises less than 100 RPMs from cold to warm and it runs quite smooth, fix your car if your idle isn't right.
revving to 3k at startup isn't my idea of a normal idle even if it was designed by mazda to be that way. the car is only mazda in appearance now anyways but hardly engineered the same way any longer.
revving to 3k at startup isn't my idea of a normal idle even if it was designed by mazda to be that way. the car is only mazda in appearance now anyways but hardly engineered the same way any longer.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-16-05 at 01:04 AM.
#15
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I've been spending the night undoing the tb mod on my NA. Even when it is 90+* out, I still have to sit and let the engine warm up on first start for the day. For me it is not worth the time or hassle and the perfomance increase was nil.
Now if I can just find the rest of the parts I took off.
Now if I can just find the rest of the parts I took off.
#16
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Originally Posted by Karack
my idle raises less than 100 RPMs from cold to warm and it runs quite smooth, fix your car if your idle isn't right.
revving to 3k at startup isn't my idea of a normal idle even if it was designed by mazda to be that way.
Originally Posted by trochoid
I've been spending the night undoing the tb mod on my NA. Even when it is 90+* out, I still have to sit and let the engine warm up on first start for the day. For me it is not worth the time or hassle and the perfomance increase was nil.
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I just did this mod a day or 2 after I started this thread and noticed someone who had the car before me did a "half-***" job of attempting this. They left the shutters alone, but blocked off the coolant line to the thermal wax and left it on the throttle body...what a crack head. O-well, at least it is done right now.
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