AH. okay. Gotcha. So the one that HAS the little plates (pic 1) is the OEM Tii pan, then, correct?

I assume those little baffle plates are for the oil returning from the timing cover, to the pan?

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Fuel...55321/10002/-1

Drill hole, in pan, throw this on, jb weld the back side if you plan on keeping it a perma-fixture in your pan and aren't a tightwad over somethign that costs under $20..... I mean, if you're THAT worried about it leaking.




Tap? Pffft.

 

LTFOL.

Nice one.

 

*sigh*

sometimes i feel like i'm the only one who does it the right way around here.

if you drill and place that fitting right into the pan it will sit at a 45* angle facing downwards creating a dip in your oil drain line causing oil to pool up. read any competent turbo build book and it will state simply that your oil drain line should not have any dips in it and should dump off above the oil level at ALL times. if any oil backs up in your drain line it creates pressure(which forces smaller amounts of oil past the turbo seals), if the oil drain is completely blocked then the oil can only be force past the turbo oil seals(in much larger quantities billowing smoke as your turbo cries mercy), which will only last a short while under this abuse before they leak constantly even if the problem is fixed.

you could possibly get by in tuning the oil pressure to the turbo down and venting the crankcase more efficiently but the more you try to cover for the simple drain issue the more difficult it is to put your turbo in it's more ideal situation where it is seeing the most oil pressure and least backpressure before it begins to cause issues. if you have to run too large of a restrictor then you will be starving the turbo of oil when it is peaking out and running it oil heavy when at low RPMs.

if using the pan, a welded bung is the only way you may skate by. too many little shortcuts like this will just cause you headaches shortly down the road as you have to redo your work and repair your turbo or keep swapping it out. oil covering the drain won't cause issues unless it happens for extended periods of time(about 5 seconds+), dips in the oil line are more likely to cause turbo issues than the temporarily covered dump will.

 

I think we've deviated.... Let's go bak to some sense-talking, instead of the inverse:

Of course, if that's too difficult to obtain, just get the S5 NA housing.... It's got the spot in it, just not tapped.... Pre-threaded for the oil return line, et al.

 

it's only deviation if you think it is. i'm just pointing people in the right direction, they can take it or leave it or think i'm just picking on them.

the plates on that baffle are inconsistent, if anything i would say they probably just put them on the S5 TII engines. i rarely see any FC pans with the elevated baffle fins which means that at least 95% of the engines do not have them.

 

Hm. Odd. I wonder what would constitute that other 5% then? JDM pans?

My final on the TnT option is in my last post. I think tapping and Threading anything is a pointless endeavor, if you can change the cover, and take care of the drilling, while it's off the car.

Tapping and Threading, however is a faster option, and probably a bit cheaper, too.

 

mazda does strange things sometimes, i honestly can't remember the last time i saw a pan with the baffles above the deck. i do just faintly remember seeing them but i never paid any attention.

i do agree that the cover should be removed but it can be tapped and threaded if careful but the engine would have to be out of the car(not difficult to do). squeeze a rag between the cover and timing gear area inside the cover and keep the engine upright while drilling. put some grease on the tap while threading so that the shavings are collected into the grease during tapping, remove rag and blow out with compressed air from inside the cover, done.

 

The amount of "advice and arguing" now outweigh the amount useful information OP has requested.... Just saying.

 

Well, I think that both sides expressing their positions (pro or con to drilling) may help him settle it, in his own mind.

 

well i know in my 1st post i was looking for sizes for the tap and drill and so on ,but i never said what i was tapping,now i wish i would of . i'm tapping my front cover with it still on the engine, with the oil pan off ,shop vac going FULL blast ,drill & tap, install line ,done , . i'm not replacing with a t2 cover nor am i tapping the oil pan . i just really wanted to know what size line,bit,tap, and maybe what fittings you used

.

 

No issue with draining into the pan. Been doing that for 11 years. But, tap the cover if you want, I just presented a possibly easier alternative.

 

So Aaron you've been running ur set up from the pan this whole time . I've followed ur build since I started on the forums in 04"

 

welding a bung is much better then tapping, either in the oil pan or the front cover.

I have done this on oil pans, covers, water pump housings, thermostat housings, no worry about limited threads or worrying about tighten your fitting and it maybe leaking

 

FWIW, I tapped the front cover with a 1/2" NPT fitting and use a 1/2" high temp rated hose from the turbo to the cover.

My location for taping was on the flat area in about 1" or so from the outside edge of the cover. The oil level is never that high (while running anyway) and I have not had any issues.

The only issue is with how it relates to your setup. I am using an aftermarket turbo and manifold. My turbo uses a 1/2" NPT fitting for the drain, so I matched it. The area of tapping is a strait shot from the turbo drain.

I, personally changed from a t2 cover to a tapped n/a because I do not like the drain turning 90deg for as long of a run required to get to the cover.

 

I have an S5. Can you tap the front timing cover without taking it off?