tach needle dont bounce when trying to start??
#1
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tach needle dont bounce when trying to start??
i noticed today my tach needle dont bounce when when trying to start i have not been able to get it started since 5 days ago not flooded that i know of but i need to help on the tach not bouncing is that BAD????
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o ya here is a video of my tach when trying to start the idiot lights as well HELP!!!!!!!! vid here http://www.myspleen.com/matt/tach.avi
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Holy crap man,
Didn't you tear off the fuel lines (you did't specify which fuel rail) cause you had a "leaky injector"?
Or Didn't you also say you took apart one of the fuel rails?
Have you gotten it to run since the original hard starting problems you had/have?
Uh, Are you sure your not compounding your problems and making things worse?
Didn't you tear off the fuel lines (you did't specify which fuel rail) cause you had a "leaky injector"?
Or Didn't you also say you took apart one of the fuel rails?
Have you gotten it to run since the original hard starting problems you had/have?
Uh, Are you sure your not compounding your problems and making things worse?
Last edited by Templeswain; 01-14-04 at 09:13 PM.
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when my air flow meter went out the tach wouldn't bounce when cranking. just unplug the air flow meter and try to start it. if it is the AFM it will start but as soon as you try to give it throttle it probably will die. if it is the AFM i have one i'll sell you for $55 shipped
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hey guys i think i found the problem
i found the purge control valve broke so i think that is the prob cause it has no vac with it unplugged so i ordered a new one if this dont work im gonna sell my fc cause it is pissing me off.... but i hope that was the reason
i found the purge control valve broke so i think that is the prob cause it has no vac with it unplugged so i ordered a new one if this dont work im gonna sell my fc cause it is pissing me off.... but i hope that was the reason
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naw rotarys are nice but they are hey maintance !!!!!! but i like it i hope this valve fixes the prob!
This is like Zoolander trying to fix an rx7.
"The center for people who can't read good and would like to do other things good too"
Last edited by Templeswain; 01-16-04 at 11:22 AM.
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also the emissions is part of the vac for the enigne which if it is unpluged or broke will casue a big *** vac leak and result of the car not starting or if it did hard idle which it anit the air flow meter cause i unpluged it and the did absolutly nothing just sounded like it was dead!did even turn on the turn right off nothing happened plus i brought it to mazda and got it tested it is fine thanks for the idea though rexman but i rather try to find the same things then buy a rebuilt AFM for 240$ from mazda or buy a no working on online.
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I think you should sell your car regardless of whether you fix it or not. It doesn't seem like you are type who could handle the quirks of a rotary.
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Your a dipstick im a beginner so it's not like i have had a rotary to work on for several years. Im just starting out give me a break ill eventually will get the grip on it once i read more and hang out a lil longer in the rx7 community........
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Your a dipstick im a beginner so it's not like i have had a rotary to work on for several years. Im just starting out give me a break ill eventually will get the grip on it once i read more and hang out a lil longer in the rx7 community........
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also the emissions is part of the vac for the enigne which if it is unpluged or broke will casue a big *** vac leak and result of the car not starting or if it did hard idle which it anit the air flow meter cause i unpluged it and the did absolutly nothing just sounded like it was dead!did even turn on the turn right off nothing happened plus i brought it to mazda and got it tested it is fine thanks for the idea though rexman but i rather try to find the same things then buy a rebuilt AFM for 240$ from mazda or buy a no working on online.
Zoolander's rosetta stone.
No but serriously. You need to stop theorizing. You've done enough of that, and I have this feeling you've just started making things worse for the car.
Sit down and get organized. Start checking things one at a time. Start with the basics. Write it down and check them off. If you hear that little voice in your head that suddenly pops up and says "oh its this its this!"
Ignore it!
And keep checking everything one at a time.
Basics.
Got fuel, spark and compression?
Good luck.
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ok guys good news and bad news. I got the car started today it was the purge valve. the bad news it started but got out to close the garge cause car was smoking like a biyatch so got out to close it the car die at idle havent been able to start it agian i think it is flooded???? also i did the compression one had 90 psi the other had 0
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i ahd that problem, i unflooded it then suirted about two drops of oil on the rotor with zero compression and one drop on the good rotor and it kicked back in, the oil is what makes the compression work
#22
lots of smoke is probably because it was flooded extreemely badlly. An engine running really rich will puff smoke like that.
I am not a mechanic but, it seems to me like you're believing what your reading on the forum and just trying random stuff.
Dispite people genuinely wanting to help you, it's nearly impossible to diagnose a severe problem like that over the computer. Do yourself a favour and stop. take a breath and read the Factory Service manual. go through it step by step. FSM
If you follow that manual, everything in a stock FC will start to work, once it does you're car will be fixed. Do not skip any steps because you think they don't do anything. I've made that mistake. follow instructions to the tooth. In the end it will save you time.
Please, don't crank the starter for more than 5-10 seconds, it will burn out. Typically, if an FI rotary doesn't start within 10 secs it won't start without de-flooding first or fixing the problem first.
Remember an engine only needs Oxygen, Fuel, compression and spark to run. Make sure you have all those and it WILL run.
I am not a mechanic but, it seems to me like you're believing what your reading on the forum and just trying random stuff.
Dispite people genuinely wanting to help you, it's nearly impossible to diagnose a severe problem like that over the computer. Do yourself a favour and stop. take a breath and read the Factory Service manual. go through it step by step. FSM
If you follow that manual, everything in a stock FC will start to work, once it does you're car will be fixed. Do not skip any steps because you think they don't do anything. I've made that mistake. follow instructions to the tooth. In the end it will save you time.
Please, don't crank the starter for more than 5-10 seconds, it will burn out. Typically, if an FI rotary doesn't start within 10 secs it won't start without de-flooding first or fixing the problem first.
Remember an engine only needs Oxygen, Fuel, compression and spark to run. Make sure you have all those and it WILL run.
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Well i got he engine started thats all that matters and the enigine takes a long time to start due to the fuel switch the last owner put on it
i might need a new starter because the engine dont spin that fast even on a full charged batt.
i might need a new starter because the engine dont spin that fast even on a full charged batt.
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