ok heres a question I own a 88 vert and I swaped in a s5 t2 I rebuilt the motor and im using an s4 wire harness with an s4 comp with s5 injectors. The car does not have the resistor pack so the computer and the injectors should be fine being that they are high imp. right? reson being is because Iv been trying to get it started all day i ran for a little but wouldnt idle then after that starting it just back fires and puffs smoke out wont start. The motor is makeing 110 in the front and 120 in the rear.

 

1. Why did you use a S5 motor in a S4 car. S4 parts are more accessible (IE: housings). On top of that are you using a S4 Turbo ECU or a S5 Turbo ECU. Unless you went pre-mix your OMP may not be operating since its electrical and most likey your in fail safe because the computer thinks the OMP is inop.

2. Be sure all your wires are connected properly and if its a jspec that you have the fuel hoses connected right since they are reversed on the jspec. What AFM and sensors are you using as well?

 

What year S4 is the ecu from? If you have the n332 ecu it requires you to have the low imp. Also check if you had your Primary and secondary injectors backwards. When you pump some gas, does the rpm climb really slow?

 

ditto

 

i used an s4 ecu from an 87 the wire harness is 88 with high imp injectors i dont have a resistor pack

 

Is the EM harness on the engine a turbo or non turbo harness?

IF turbo EM harness, then did you do any alterations to the two orange colored plugs on it that connect to the Front harness?

And IF turbo EM harness, what did you do for the wiring to the alternator?

 

no i used an n/a wire harness from an s4 i used what ever i needed from my s4 engine like the alternator but i use the in injectors from the s5 because the wire harness did not have the ristors because its from 88

 

Shoulda worked just fine. Timing maybe? Hard to say from here. Maybe you got the injector secondary wires where the primarys go and vice versa???? Juat a wild guess.

Used a series four Tubo ECU ????? and Turbo boost sensor??(the na sensor does not sense boost) and turbo afm????

If it is a non turbo ECu then it thinks you have 460 injectors instead of turbo 550's. Just guessing here.

 

how did u test for compression? because 110 and 120 if they are totals and not individual pressures could be your problem. pull your plugs, clean them, crank engine without fuel pump and/or injectors on until clear. then squirt some atf into the leading plug holes. reinstall everything and restart, when it starts be sure someone in the car keeps it running, and hold the idle up at 2-3000 for a while. my rebuilds usually take a good 20-30 min to clear out real well. also if you have any vacuum leaks and whatnot they will stop it from idling any lower. try that stuff hope it helps.

 

I removed a leading plug at a time and installed compression tester thats what i bumped up to. Yea i did have it running just couldnt let off the gas or it would want to die out it ran at 3000 for like 2 mins reved up ok im going to wait until my exaust comes in cant **** off the nabors my car sounds like a drag car

 

The compression tester is completly useless if the valve on the compression tool is not removed.

You need to throughtly check the Turbo swap threads before you continue or you'll find your self in a large money pit and no driveble car. Stop everything and do a search on turbo swap and read everything you can gather.

 

ok so the cars running found out the problem the previous owner had installed a kill switch that is wired up to the relay underneth the dash go figure thanks for the help

 

Thanks for letting us know what happened. Reminds me of a cars whos motor I rebuilt and couldn't get started. He had a aftermarket theft system balled up under the dash.

 

yea heres a pic of the car pretty low key for now lol