I just finished assembling a customers S5 N/A vert and the check engine light is on, so I checked the codes by grounding out the green test port.

It gave me a LLLSS code which translates to the switching solenoid valve.

Now, the car runs great, it starts up perfect. The check engine light will be on when its idling or when the throttle is closed, once you tap the throttle the check engine light goes out. It almost seemed throttle activated, once you give it some throttle it goes out.

I have also tried a couple other solenoid valves in place of the original switching solenoid valve, and still the same code.

Any ideas?

 

4A-43 of the FSM. fuel and emission control systems. hope that helps

http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/s4...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf

 

Thats for an S4....did you not read the title

 

The TPS setting controls the operation of the switching and relief solenoids. That explains the throttle inputs making it go out.

On a series four it's the GREY electrical connector on the switching solenoid. Make sure it is connected. Connected??? Then check the output of the tps on the green/red wire when the engine is fully hot. Should be approx one volt dc. You can backprobe the tps connectors green/red or check it at the ECU by backprobing the wire there.

Switching solenoids don't effect the engine operation. They effect how the ACV performs. Personaly I think the plug must be off. The ECU is just looking for the resistance of the solenoids coil so to speak. It's dumb as a rock and has not a clue if the solenoid opened or actually shut. Just looking for a circuit so to speak. done

 

Hmmm great info Hailers, now I know for a fact that the connector is hooked up, so I'll try testing the TPS and adjusting it. Hope that works

 

Well, you could see if there is 12vdc on the black/white wire on that solenoid and maybe ohm the other wire back to the ECU to make sure it's not open.

I shoulda kept my mouth shut when I saw it was a series five.

If the engine is fully warmed up, I'd suspect that what one could do is turn the key to ON. Then with the engine not running, put your hand/finger on the grey solenoid and at the same time open and shut the throttle linkagae. My thought is that you should be able to FEEL the switching solenoid click and maybe even HEAR that solenoid click as the throttle is moved from full close to a more open position. If it clicks..........maybe go back and make sure that is the code for the switching solenoid.

Darn, I'm going to have to go read the series five fsm on codes. Don't own one of those and have no great interest.

 

When its running I un-plugged the switching solenoid valve and tested it, its getting 12V to it at idle. Also tried adjusting the TPS, still no dice.

Check engine light is still on at idle and shuts off when you open the throttle.

This has me baffled!

 

Ok, RPM, you made me go look at a series five FSM online. Here's what it says if you kick that code 32 for Switching Solenoid:

1. It asks if there are poor connections at the solenod valve connections.

2. It asks is there continuity of the solenoid.

3. It asks if there is continuity b/t the solenoid and the ECU???

More or less what I mentioned above. It also gives hints as to what is wrong if the above questions are negative.

You might try swapping THAT solenod with another of your solenods and see if the PROBLEM travels, so to speak. IF it travels to the other spot, then it's the solenoid. Hard for me to believe one of those solenoids would go bad. Might though.

It would be helpful if you could say if the solenoid clicks when the throttle is moved from idle to a higher throttle opening (engine fully hot). That would be the TPS's output to the ECU, making the solenoid click.

 

i have had this problem intermittenly on my car also. to be honest if you can't figure it out as HAILERS mentioned, just ignore it for now and get some driving in. my car stopped complaining about it after a bunch of driving.
it will not affect driveability or performance of the car, it's just annoying to see the CEL come on.

Aaron