Spent a few hours pulling the intake manifold off my car to replace my OMP lines and rebuild my pump to fix a nagging oil leak. I researched the hell out of this project. I was ready to go to town on it. I thought my lines were original and cracked enough to leak. Figured I'd rebuild and reseal my pump while I was in there.

After a few good cuts, scratches, and a layer of profanity I find my lines are clear teflon plastic with mouse-ear crimps. Repaired exactly like the guide says they should be done.

Good thing I'm installing Pineapple Racing Aux. Port inserts or else I'd think I wasted my time. Quick question about that. When I pulled my sleeves out, I thought it was a little weird that one sleeve was open and one wasn't. If they are supposed to open at higher RPM's, then shouldn't they both be in the closed position when the car is off?

 

I believe there's a common problem with the auxiliaries that makes them stick either open or closed. I think they're supposed to be closed at low RPM and open up high, but I drive a TII and don't regularly concern myself with NA woes. Do a search, like I said I think it's a common problem.

 

yes, your correct, they should both be closed. especially when the car is not running!
i just adjusted them on my 88NA, and found that the rear opened much sooner than the front. see if you can move them by hand, if you cant, let us know.

 

They both puled out of the block smoothly, so I don't think the sleeves were stuck. I'll test my actuators in the morning. I'm letting the Loctite set before I out it all back together. When I d put it back together, do I put the sleeve back the way it came out, or should I put it back in in the closed position? Also do they need to be lubed with anything special?

 

i used vasoline on mine. but i dont think its necessary.
if the actuators are closed (which they should be) then the sleeves should be in the closed position when they go in the block.

 

You know the sleeves have a pin going across the outboard end of them. That pin has a BIG half and a small half. Take a look at one to see what I mean. Well the large half goes opposite the mating mark.

Tell you what. Look in the ENGINE section of the online FSM and at page 1-78 and you'll see what I mean.

EDIT: Or put another way, the short, fat half of that pin should be at the 7 o'clock position on the rear housing and on the front housing it should be at the 5 o'clock position. Those are the closed positions.

 

CRAP. DAMN. POOP.

I was putting my OMP back together, and I tore the new gasket for the lever. Now I need to find one TODAY. Is this something I can find at most hardware stores? Or am I screwed?

 

Where did you get your o-rings? Do you have an extra set that I can buy from buying them in bulk?

 

O ordered the Pineapple racing rebuild kit. It came with all the o-rings and new screws. It also comes with a step by step DVD on how to rebuilb a OMP. I have no clue where to get a new o-ring at.

 

The first time I freed my aux ports I just cleaned them up really good and put them back in, after about 4k miles they froze up again. When I torn them back apart I used anti-seize and they still are working and that was about 15k miles ago. I highly recommend the use of anti-seize.

 

There's a thread in the archives that describes the rebuild of the omp and the place to get the o'ring for the lever. Mc Master Carr is the vendor.

 

I've seen that. I just want to avoid buying the o-rings in bulk. My OMP is the last thing leaking oil on my car. *knocks on wood*

 

If you pre-mix, they will work like butter. The secondary injectors give them a dose of fuel and oil every time you go over 3800 rpm. Yet another benefit of tcw-3

 

The rods could also become stuck, where the sleeves and actuators are fine. Not a fun situation.

 

i found those size o rings at home depot.

 

The gasket is nothing special, so you should be fine.

Also, if as you said someone was in there (messing with the intake), they may have installed the auxiliary valves wrong (see Hailer's post), especially if nothing's stuck/seized.

If you think of how the actuators turn (against internal spring tension) and how they turn the valve (degrees of turn), you can see how the auxiliary valve spins and opens the port. Think of how the ports in the housings are facing the center iron housing. Then you'll see why they have to be aligned the way the FSM says (again, Hailer's post).

 

I just noticed PFSANTOS at the bottom of his posts has a link to the FSM's, Parts fische, Training manuals. That is a very helpful link.

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

I sure wish someone would send him a PDF of the series five wiring diagrams so he could host them.

 

(Hailers and all) Not my web sites...

Here's a link to the S5 89-91 wiring manual:

http://www.rx7city.com/89-91manual.htm