So I thought my window motor/regulator was busted since there was no noise and it didnt move. So I decide to buy a used window motor/regulator from a guy from this forum. Today, I went to replace it and the stupid thing still doesnt work. Is there any other way I can check for problems?? This is pissing me off really bad because my window is a little open.

 

You check the switches yet, with a meter? check for power going to the motor when the switch is moved? fuses?

 

Yeah, I got a new window switch , and the fuse is fine. I haven't check the power to the motor though.

 

Which mirror? If the drivers side window switch is bad, then your passenger side wont work either. There is a way to get that window up. Use long jumpers from the battery to the window motor. One direction is up, and the other is down.

 

J-Rat, its the driver side window and I don't quite follow u on how to bring the window up with jumpers? Could the window motor/regulator I bought is dead also?

 

Okay


Its simple. You take the door panel off. you disconnect the window motor (the FIRST plug as you trace the wires from the motor back). IT should be a 2 pin plug. If you put 12 vdc on one pin, and neg on the other it should go up or down. Reverse the wires and it will go the opposite way. This (obvioulsy) would be the pins that go to the MOTOR not the switch...

 

Heh thanx, I'm a noob when it comes to electrical stuff. One more questions, what do u mean with this , 12 vdc on one pin, what is a 12 vdc??? I don't know if my motor is bad though? This will tell me if its bad, correct???

 

Sorry. 12 VDC is 12 Volts Direct Current. Its basically what your car runs on (actually its more like 14.4).

And yes, this will tell you if its bad. Just be careful. your playing with electricity!

 

12 volts direct current is the battery "juice" in the car. If you hook a wire to one post of the battery and another wire to the other post, there will be 12 volts of "potential" between the two wires. To make it simple, connect a seperate wire to each battery post, make them sufficient length to reach the plug in the door, put one wire in each plug terminal/ receptical and see if the window moves (if you want to move it the opposite direction, reverse the wire inputs). If nothing happens, and you're sure it's the right plug, more than likely the motor is bad. DO NOT let the wire ends touch each other during this procedure (unless you want to be an amateur welder). Good luck...

 

Thanks a lot for your help, umm. can i buy this VDC at any parts store? Oh yeah I had bad experiences with electricty , that why i tend not to deal with it. Our FC has so much electrical problems I have to deal with.

 

if you absolutely know you have power and ground going to something, and it doesnt react as it should, than something is wrong/broken/loose/missing. replacing parts can be the most expensive way to check something. get a 12volt meter or test light if you know how to use or make one, and test for current.
12vdc -- i'ma take a stab; 12 volts direct current (12 volts). 'direct' as opposed to 'alternating.'

when i'm late replying, i'm really late..

 

12VDC is the power that your battery has. The alternator makes, etc.. You dont buy it at the store..

Wow.. Umm. Maybe you should hold off on doing anything. I dont want you to burn something up and then blame me..

 

the VDC (voltage) will come from the wires he said to attach to the switch. you need wires that actually have power to test the switch. its rather simple; all you need is wires.
VDC - Volts Direct Current
your car battery is ~12.6Volts "Direct Current." your Alternator, on the other hand, is "Alternating Current." this is what essentially makes your car ~14.4Volts. most actual loads/accessories only use 5volts though (hence "5 volt references). but thats just other stuff you'll come across dealing with any possible bugs.. in any car.
as much as we complain, i see other cars all the time whose rear lights dont work. god only knows what other gremlins are present.

 

yea, 12-14 volts doesnt sound like much, but amps will kill ya.
where do you suggest he get his power from assuming that the wires to the switch could possibly be the source of the problem?

 

Ok, I understand now, I was confused about the wire thing. Do you know the wires that has power that will work with testing this? I'm goin to get a volt meter and test light. Don't worry J-Rat, I won't blame you if something go wrong . I think I can handle it, beside the bad experience was when i was really young and electricuted (sp?) myself.