2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Stuck radiator air bleed screw

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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 06:22 PM
  #1  
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BGH
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From: Dallas,Tx
Stuck radiator air bleed screw

Did not know just what to call this or I would
have searched more. I have a stuck radiator
air blled screw. This is the platic one that is
on the radiator to let the air out. It was
stripped a little when I got the car but I
finished it off tonight. Has anybody found
a easier methed than using a cut off tool to
cut groves in the plastic for a big flathead
screwdriver? Got a new one coming from
Mazdatrix but need to get the old one out
as carefully as possible.
Thanks in advance
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 07:08 PM
  #2  
Amur_'s Avatar
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From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
I used a flat-head screwdriver and put a lot of force on it to get it out after I'd stripped mine.


And it's called a 'drain ****' (N326-15-203) for anyone else needing a new one. (don't look at me - I didn't name it. )
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 07:31 PM
  #3  
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86J
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From: Calgary, A.B.
I used a chisel to get in there. the end is sharp and will lock right on to the plastic. I was in the US on a road trip this summer and i was in Taos New Mexico and i was adding some coolant at night and mine broke where the o ring is. i used a hose clamp to hold it in for 2 days strait of driving until i got to denver. I even drove up pikes peak b/c it was on the way. anyways hope you get yours out.
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 09:23 PM
  #4  
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BGH
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From: Dallas,Tx
Thanks guys for your help. I just bought a small
cutoff wheel and a small chisel. Its party time
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Old Jan 24, 2005 | 10:41 PM
  #5  
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From: Coldspring TX
FWIW, I never had to crack that screw open, the coolant system seemed to bleed itself just fine through the 4 or 5 coolant changes I performed during the time the stock rad was on the car...Run her, then top her off at the t-stat housing cap...
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 02:59 AM
  #6  
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Guys, it's plastic. You don't need cut-off wheels, chisels or a lot of force. All you need is a flat-head screwdriver with its tip heated up with a lighter and gentle force to make a nice new slot you can use this time and in the future.

Last edited by NZConvertible; Jan 25, 2005 at 03:12 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 03:02 AM
  #7  
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From: n
Just for reference, the replacement part number...

part number- N326-15-203
Description - ****, drain
D-code - 15 207
Comes in quanities of 2



-Ted
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 03:13 AM
  #8  
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I'm a boost creep...
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
The other one being for the radiator drain.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 03:28 AM
  #9  
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From: Hawaii
I used an ez-out drill bit from sears.
Worked great.
-Cliff
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 05:25 AM
  #10  
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I am 2Furious
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From: NJ / Philly
funny...mine already fits a big flathead.
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:31 AM
  #11  
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From: Dallas,Tx
With a large srewdriver it still wont turn the
way it is. The reason for the cutoff wheel is
to cut slots in the plastic for a large srewdriver
or a chisle just to get it to turn
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Old Jan 25, 2005 | 08:33 AM
  #12  
oakback's Avatar
meh
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From: Tallahassee
I kinda stripped it with a big phillips head, then I figured out that a rather pointed (not sure on the size), small phillips fit way down in there and gripped fine. If I don't undo that drain to let air out, mine coolant buzzer will never shut up.
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