shazmybot

So, I finally got around to dropping my TII swap into my S4 and start plugging in the Haltech harness. A good days work later, I finally get the notion to give the engine a good spin by a wrench with a little bit of oil. I pull the trailing spark plug on the primary rotor and give the wrench a good turn. I feel the motor spinning freely with minimal effort to turn it. After a full rotation of the engine, I only hear one noticeable *puff* from the spark plug hole. I panic and then pull the secondary rotor's trailing plug and check that one. One puff on that side too.

So I start freaking out 'cause I feel like I had bought a lemon, and had already done a considerable amount of work. I run out and buy a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and slip a little bit into each trailing spark plug hole, then spin the motor backwards a couple of times. I repeated this process once every 3 hours for the last day. Around midnight last night I slipped a little more in, spun it backwards and forwards several times, then decided to let it sit for the night and work its way into the seals.

Well, I come home from work, only to find that there isn't much improvement. It sounds like it's moving more air with each rotation, but I don't hear anything more than one puff per rotor.

So, my problem is this: Do I pull the motor and tear it apart to see how bad it really is, or should I be more patient with this process and keep working it until the two seals free themselves? Yes, the rebuild would be a fantastic idea, but I'd be overjoyed if it would work itself loose.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Also, feel free to point and laugh at the guy who was too lazy to check his motor when it came up the driveway.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

one puff per rotor or per rotation of the eshaft? i would maybe take the exhaust manifold off and look in the ports with a flashlight. try and push on the apex seals gently to see if they move. if they aren't broken you might as well try to get it running.

shazmybot

Yeah, one puff per rotor per rotation of the e-shaft. It sounds like it's almost in the same position, which makes me think that it's the could be the seals that was closest to the ports when it sat for a few months.

I'll slip a little more MMO into the chambers, spin it a few more times, then pull the manifold when I get back from class tomorrow.

shazmybot

EDIT: I'm an idiot.

However, I'm not totally wrong. One of the seals on the secondary rotor IS stuck. I just threw some MMO on it and spun the rotor two cycles back and two cycles forward. Hopefully that'll be enough to free it up.

mbonner

I thought the plan was to soak the rotor tips with 50/50 Varsol and tranny fluid in the sparkplug holes, let it soak for a couple of days, then get it onto the road with a buddy with a truck, tow it at 25 mph and pop the clutch in second, so centrifugal force will free the stuck apex seal. Worked for me, twice, anyhow, that was a 1980, same motor, worth a try.
Same friend who told me that said to mix Varsol and Dextron 50-50 and squirt that into the carb of a car being put away for the winter, while running, until it chokes. I see Seafoam says the same thing
Mike

shazmybot

Well the Marvel Mystery Oil's doing a good job so far. I spun the front rotor backwards and caught a bunch of the oil that spilled out. It's defiantly cleaning up the faces and chambers cause it's gone from pink to brown from the carbon. Good stuff, imo.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

put it in, pull the sparkplugs and egi fuses put some oil in the spark plug hole and crank it over for a minute with them out, and more oil and kee cranking it , will free up the seal for sure we just did it on my buddy's TII motor that had sat in a field for 4 years
you'll be able to hear once it loosens off
either way its best to work some oil through it after its sat for a while, once you do that it should fire right up

shazmybot

Well, it's not TOTALLY ready to be fired up yet. I've still got to connect the new oil cooler lines and finish up the Haltech harness. I can SEE the seal inside of the trailing hole and it looks like the MM oil has taken off most of the gunk, since the rotor faces also looks cleaner than when I started. I'm gonna run out later and pick up a battery so I can try that out.