2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Stripped screw on HUB ( removal tips )

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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 03:30 AM
  #1  
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Stripped screw on HUB ( removal tips )



How would I go about in removing this stripped screw?
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 03:50 AM
  #2  
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I'd drill the HEAD off. No more than just the head of the screw. Then remove the hub and unscrew the shank with your fingers.

Others would buy a impact driver and hit the driver with a hammer and the screw would probably come out. But they cost a few bucks.
Attached Thumbnails Stripped screw on HUB ( removal tips )-impact-driver-two.jpg   Stripped screw on HUB ( removal tips )-impact-driver.jpg  

Last edited by HAILERS; Nov 24, 2008 at 03:57 AM.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 07:24 AM
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I have that exact same kit in my garage. It wouldnt budge.

Well i'll try that drilling idea.

Thanks Hailers.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 08:20 AM
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Wow those impact things usually work great. Your other option besides drilling is an air-powered vibrator and vibrate that SOB off.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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Take a sharp punch, place it close to the edge of the head and hit it with a hammer- in a counterclockwise direction, obviously.

Usually it's not the threads that have seized, it's the large angled area under the head in the countersink.
When you get it out, replace it with an Allen head instead of a Phillips (got mine from Ace Hardware) and use anti-seize on the threads and below the head.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:27 AM
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I just own a reverse thread set from craftsman, stuff always comes right out.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by clokker
Take a sharp punch, place it close to the edge of the head and hit it with a hammer- in a counterclockwise direction, obviously.

Usually it's not the threads that have seized, it's the large angled area under the head in the countersink.
When you get it out, replace it with an Allen head instead of a Phillips (got mine from Ace Hardware) and use anti-seize on the threads and below the head.
We did that and the head came off achieving good results anyway.

btw, there are extra holes in the hub for the screws so don't worry about it too much.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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i had the same thing with mine! i took it to a shop. they had that thing taken out like candy. do mess it up if you think you cant do it, let someone with the right tools do it.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:53 AM
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Drill that sucker out, and don't use the screw when you put the new rotors back on.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 11:03 AM
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psh - cutoffwheel to make it a common head, the heat aids in the breaking it free as well than back at it with the impact.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 01:09 PM
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Ahh, just drill the HEAD off and remove the rotor/hub and then spin the shank out with your fingers. Takes but a moment. You don't have to drill the shank out, or even into the shank. Just get a drill bit larger than the shank and drill the HEAD off.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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Yeah you don't even really need it when you put the new one on, the lug nuts hold it just fine once the wheel is on. My new Power Slot rotors don't even have the holes.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gene
Yeah you don't even really need it when you put the new one on, the lug nuts hold it just fine once the wheel is on. My new Power Slot rotors don't even have the holes.
So when I put on the new rotors I dont have to have a screw in there?

Thanks for all the replies. All seem like pretty good ideas.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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no screw needed. i just did the brakes on my subaru and it has no screws stock, the wheel holds the brake disc on
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 03:19 PM
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The screws to hold the disc on, aren't necessary. My car doesn't have any. The wheels hold the disc on, just like the other 95% of cars.
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