Stripped screw on HUB ( removal tips )
I'd drill the HEAD off. No more than just the head of the screw. Then remove the hub and unscrew the shank with your fingers.
Others would buy a impact driver and hit the driver with a hammer and the screw would probably come out. But they cost a few bucks.
Others would buy a impact driver and hit the driver with a hammer and the screw would probably come out. But they cost a few bucks.
Last edited by HAILERS; Nov 24, 2008 at 03:57 AM.
Take a sharp punch, place it close to the edge of the head and hit it with a hammer- in a counterclockwise direction, obviously.
Usually it's not the threads that have seized, it's the large angled area under the head in the countersink.
When you get it out, replace it with an Allen head instead of a Phillips (got mine from Ace Hardware) and use anti-seize on the threads and below the head.
Usually it's not the threads that have seized, it's the large angled area under the head in the countersink.
When you get it out, replace it with an Allen head instead of a Phillips (got mine from Ace Hardware) and use anti-seize on the threads and below the head.
Take a sharp punch, place it close to the edge of the head and hit it with a hammer- in a counterclockwise direction, obviously.
Usually it's not the threads that have seized, it's the large angled area under the head in the countersink.
When you get it out, replace it with an Allen head instead of a Phillips (got mine from Ace Hardware) and use anti-seize on the threads and below the head.
Usually it's not the threads that have seized, it's the large angled area under the head in the countersink.
When you get it out, replace it with an Allen head instead of a Phillips (got mine from Ace Hardware) and use anti-seize on the threads and below the head.
btw, there are extra holes in the hub for the screws so don't worry about it too much.
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Ahh, just drill the HEAD off and remove the rotor/hub and then spin the shank out with your fingers. Takes but a moment. You don't have to drill the shank out, or even into the shank. Just get a drill bit larger than the shank and drill the HEAD off.
Yeah you don't even really need it when you put the new one on, the lug nuts hold it just fine once the wheel is on. My new Power Slot rotors don't even have the holes.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: NorCal,California
Thanks for all the replies. All seem like pretty good ideas.
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