the7kid

ok so i have the turbo off my 87 s4 t2 and i was looking at it and realized that it uses both engine coolant and oil in the center section. it might be a dumb question but is it possible to us the stock turbo with just the oil lines and no coolant if they were blocked off. and also i was thinking of swithching to an external wastegate setup with the stock turbo until i can afford my dream turbo (gt35r). ive heard something about welding the internal wastegate shut and taking the actuator arm off and that'd be ok. if anyone can help please let me know

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

here's the big question...


WHY?

the7kid

why to the coolant lines or why to the wastegate?

and also does anyone know part numbers and a site to order stainless braided oil feed lines and returns and all the fittings and gaskets necessary

2-N-D-pink

iTrader: (27)

hang on....water fed turbos need water. your turbo is extremely hot and 200 degree water might just help.

and about your wastegate question. i have a tial 38mm on my stock turbo. wastegate shut and actuator arm off. you mean take off your actuator and the flapper door off.

on mine i took off my actuator and flapper door. then made the whole bigger (where the door is). After that, i cut a hole on my downpipe flange and welded a 1.5 inch S.S. pipe to a 38mm flange. it works fine and it helps with over boost.

for your stainless braided oil lines go here.
http://himni-racing.com/index.php?ma...4444ouqo94min2

the7kid

do you have pics of the wastegate setup?

2-N-D-pink

iTrader: (27)

yes i do. ill have to figure out how to put them on my computer...

veedubbed

I ran one without coolant for quite a while with no negative effects. Well, it started leaking oil after quite a while, but it also had 130,xxx miles on it, and was being run at 15 psi.....

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Running coolant through it should only help it, I don't see any great reasons to remove 'half'* its cooling capacity.

*'half' because the oil will compensate slightly, but the turbo will probably still run significantly hotter

veedubbed

The reason I was doing it was because whoever rebuilt the engine I put in used two front housings - no coolant passage for the turbo.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I don't know about the FC stock turbo, but I've seen people block off coolant passages on Mitsubishi turbos (16G) and they ran fine. It can't be good for the life of the turbo, but I think you can get away with it. You should be more careful about cooling them down though. A lot of aftermarket turbos are only oil cooled, except they probably don't run as hot as the stock one does.

Whizbang

a turbocharger designed and built to be lubricated and cooled strictly by oil only will be constructed differently just for that reason. Usually larger bearings and oil passages that are not in competition for space like the water / oil turbochargers would be. BUT that technology is basically obsolete. So taking your turbocharger a decade or two back because or either lazy or for some reason really just WANT to is a lame idea.

The water / oil turbochargers actually do a considerable more for the life of the bearings and its better on your oil that your engine is also ingesting. So not only will be you be wearing on the turbo, the engine oil is also going to run much hotter and degrade faster leaving you with increased engine wear as well.

the7kid

if i use a different manifold with a pipe for an external wastegate do i have to weld the internal stock wastegate shut? also does anybody know of a similar turbo to a gt35r that is less expensive or other popular turbo 2 turbos?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

You need to check out the Single Turbo subforum, and the single turbo archive section.

A turbo similar in size and output to the GT35R? The various 60-1 (T04B, T04S) turbos aren't quite as big but are a lot cheaper and are proven. You can also go with a Holset HX35 or HX40. You can get those in good shape for maybe $500 or less and they will make good power. It's not that common on these cars but it's been done.